Electric Fan install
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Electric Fan install
I got a 14 or 15 inch fan off a Chevy Citation, we have like 6 of them sitting at the other farm. I was planning on using a 50 amp toggle switch, and a 25 amp or 30 amp relay that i'm going to mount were the hot start asist thingy use to be. I am going to manually turn it because I dont know what @ which temperture the fan should turn and turn off. Can anyone Help me?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
I just installed a fan in mine from a '90 Taurus SHO. I used a 30-Amp relay getting a signal from the fuel pump. I have a 30-Amp fuse inline with the fan and used a thermostatic switch to turn in on and off. I just set it so it came on just before the temp gauge needle got to the middle of its range.
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Re: Electric Fan install
Originally posted by JALVORD_2003_68
I am going to manually turn it because I dont know what @ which temperture the fan should turn and turn off.
I am going to manually turn it because I dont know what @ which temperture the fan should turn and turn off.
Don’t run the fan without a thermoswitch. Manual switches work fine until the first time you get distracted and don’t notice the climbing needle. You may think you’ll never forget, but nobody’s perfect and it’s just not worth risking a toasted engine. Leaving the fan on is another way people do it, except this defeats the entire purpose of removing the stock fan.
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an update:
The electric fan i intended to use too damn fat to fit in front of the water pump. Anyone know of a junkyard avaible electric fan on commonly found car, say like some front wheel drive car, that would fit?
The electric fan i intended to use too damn fat to fit in front of the water pump. Anyone know of a junkyard avaible electric fan on commonly found car, say like some front wheel drive car, that would fit?
#6
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I assume that link takes you to it, but we're all lazy and I want to post so it's the fiero fan. Any fiero fan to be exact. Then go to Pep Boys and buy a little kit to wire an e-fan. If you still want manual control, wire in a switch with some tricky methods (this is what I did). Also, make sure that you wire the fan to constant power so that it will continue to run after the car is off.
ASEmaster-Since it's wired in with the fuel pump, doesn't it only come on when the car is running? You should think about using constant power so your engine isn't stewing in its own heat after it's off.
ASEmaster-Since it's wired in with the fuel pump, doesn't it only come on when the car is running? You should think about using constant power so your engine isn't stewing in its own heat after it's off.
#7
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ASEmaster-Since it's wired in with the fuel pump, doesn't it only come on when the car is running? You should think about using constant power so your engine isn't stewing in its own heat after it's off. [/B]
ASEmaster-Since it's wired in with the fuel pump, doesn't it only come on when the car is running? You should think about using constant power so your engine isn't stewing in its own heat after it's off. [/B]
I originally had it wired like you suggest and I didn't like the fact that I always had a potentially live circuit that could activate even with the ignition off (especially if I was working near it).
It's just my personal preference.
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#8
Originally posted by Redwood
[B]I assume that link takes you to it, but we're all lazy and I want to post so it's the fiero fan. Any fiero fan to be exact.
[B]I assume that link takes you to it, but we're all lazy and I want to post so it's the fiero fan. Any fiero fan to be exact.
#9
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yeah, no point in having the fan on when the car isn't running, 'cause like ASE said, it would just cool the radiator, and wouldn't circulate the coolant. Plus, the clutch fan doesn't spin when the engine's off, so the electric fan shouldn't have to...
Jeff
Jeff
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You COULD run it when the engine is off (based on temp), but it would be overkill.
On the Canadian Forces vehicle LLVW (aka 'Iltis') the electric fans run as long as the power is on and the coolant is hot. There's a rudimentary 'key' that turns vehicle power on or off (not a start key as military vehicles have start buttons instead of ignition switches) and as long as power is on the fans will keep temperatures low. Of course that's not performance related but to minimize Infra Red signatures from parked Iltis to keep 'em from being targets.
Like I said, for street applications it's overkill. Not many circumstances under which someone will hunt your parked FB using infra red.
On the Canadian Forces vehicle LLVW (aka 'Iltis') the electric fans run as long as the power is on and the coolant is hot. There's a rudimentary 'key' that turns vehicle power on or off (not a start key as military vehicles have start buttons instead of ignition switches) and as long as power is on the fans will keep temperatures low. Of course that's not performance related but to minimize Infra Red signatures from parked Iltis to keep 'em from being targets.
Like I said, for street applications it's overkill. Not many circumstances under which someone will hunt your parked FB using infra red.
#13
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Like I said, for street applications it's overkill. Not many circumstances under which someone will hunt your parked FB using infra red.
~T.J.
PS - My fan is wired like this even though it doesnt have to be, simply because I was too lazy to find a wire that only has power when the ignition was on, so I just ran it straight to the battery. So I have the positive wire for the fan and the ignition wire for the fan both on the (+) terminal of the batter, talk about lazy .
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HUH?
Sorry, I HAD to do it...
Sorry, I HAD to do it...
I betcha you were just wating for me to say something retarded so you can post that picture.
#16
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I just installed a 16inch fan In front of my radiator(looks cleaner) It doesnt fit flush with the radiator but i can feel air moving through the rad.
It may just be my imagination, but it seams like my engine is running a tad bit hotter. The temp needle never passed past half way and is about a needle or two away from center,
should I worry about this, I need a new rad so I am thinking of getting a alluminum rad. And I figure this will fix this.
It may just be my imagination, but it seams like my engine is running a tad bit hotter. The temp needle never passed past half way and is about a needle or two away from center,
should I worry about this, I need a new rad so I am thinking of getting a alluminum rad. And I figure this will fix this.
#17
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I hear that mounting them in front actaully is worse and less efficent that mounting them on the back (engine side) because the fan actaully blocks the air brom hitting the rad. whereas if you ahd the fan on the engine side, the air could force its way through and around and what not and not be regulated by how fast the fan can go...If that makes sense...
~T.J.
PS - Once again, I "heard" this information
~T.J.
PS - Once again, I "heard" this information
#18
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Originally posted by RotorMotorDriver
I hear that mounting them in front actaully is worse and less efficent that mounting them on the back (engine side) because the fan actaully blocks the air brom hitting the rad. whereas if you ahd the fan on the engine side, the air could force its way through and around and what not and not be regulated by how fast the fan can go...If that makes sense...
~T.J.
PS - Once again, I "heard" this information
I hear that mounting them in front actaully is worse and less efficent that mounting them on the back (engine side) because the fan actaully blocks the air brom hitting the rad. whereas if you ahd the fan on the engine side, the air could force its way through and around and what not and not be regulated by how fast the fan can go...If that makes sense...
~T.J.
PS - Once again, I "heard" this information
Another thing to think about is this... surely the AC condensor that is mounted in front of the radiator from the factory is going to pose more of a restriction than a thermo fan. And if all the stock shrouds are in place the air is going to be forced through anyway.
Plus it looks better.
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