eibach springs
#1
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
#5
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
no way,
back racing beat
with fron st
suspension tekniques are the only ones with the variable spring rate,
makes cushy ride going straight and nice n stiff in the turns,
i just posted all the spring rates
maybe i can dig them up.
back racing beat
with fron st
suspension tekniques are the only ones with the variable spring rate,
makes cushy ride going straight and nice n stiff in the turns,
i just posted all the spring rates
maybe i can dig them up.
#7
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
ok im breaking out the mazdatrix catalog,
here they are again.
------------stock-------racing beat---------eibach---------st
front--------100-------------145-------------171--------85/120
rear----------85-------------110-------------100-----------80
here they are again.
------------stock-------racing beat---------eibach---------st
front--------100-------------145-------------171--------85/120
rear----------85-------------110-------------100-----------80
Last edited by V8kilr; 03-18-02 at 03:44 AM.
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#9
Are you Nucking Futs?
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ummm did you say mazdatrix catalouge?
"The numbers are from our own spring tester and should be used to show relative differences - not necessarily for the absolute rate number."
Just do not compare those numbers to another sources numbers.
BTW why would you want the stiffest spring in the back. the fb is already tail happy as is. at the initial turn in before the front springs go to the higher rate the car will oversteer badly.
maybe this will not be noticeable but I autocross, so that would be a no no.
Correct me if I am wrong here.
"The numbers are from our own spring tester and should be used to show relative differences - not necessarily for the absolute rate number."
Just do not compare those numbers to another sources numbers.
BTW why would you want the stiffest spring in the back. the fb is already tail happy as is. at the initial turn in before the front springs go to the higher rate the car will oversteer badly.
maybe this will not be noticeable but I autocross, so that would be a no no.
Correct me if I am wrong here.
#10
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
im moro into drag racing,
its just some of the small reasons why people with more hp in their rx7's cant pull the same et's i can
i wan the stiifist springs in they rear,
and squishy ones in front.
but i still want to be able to take corners.
stiff springs and shocks will great improve your launch by being able to put more hp to the ground instead of wasting it in the suspension,
same reason they make traction control bars for muscle cars.
i run very stiff shocks in the rear currently and have a set of racing beat rear springs,
i also use all poly bushing on the rear end
stock sway bar with poly end links,
all this had such a big effect on how my car hooked up that i had to reinforce the wheel wells with steel,
then run a aprox 6" wide by 1/8" thick piece of steel from one wheel well to the other "on the inside of the car"just to stop the wheel wells from buckleing,
i want as much hp as possible going to the ground,
which is why i also run a street/strip hd clutch setup.
its just some of the small reasons why people with more hp in their rx7's cant pull the same et's i can
i wan the stiifist springs in they rear,
and squishy ones in front.
but i still want to be able to take corners.
stiff springs and shocks will great improve your launch by being able to put more hp to the ground instead of wasting it in the suspension,
same reason they make traction control bars for muscle cars.
i run very stiff shocks in the rear currently and have a set of racing beat rear springs,
i also use all poly bushing on the rear end
stock sway bar with poly end links,
all this had such a big effect on how my car hooked up that i had to reinforce the wheel wells with steel,
then run a aprox 6" wide by 1/8" thick piece of steel from one wheel well to the other "on the inside of the car"just to stop the wheel wells from buckleing,
i want as much hp as possible going to the ground,
which is why i also run a street/strip hd clutch setup.
#11
Old [Sch|F]ool
V8kilr - traction bars do not stiffen the suspension! What they do is use the torque reaction in the axle to improve traction. Y'see, for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction.
When you accelerate, the pinion gear in the rearend tries to climb up the ring gear. The axle tries to twist the nose end upwards. With leaf springs, what happens there is the spring contorts into a kind of an "s" shape when seen from the side. very bad for the spring and also it leads to wheelhop. The traction bar is just a snubber that prevents the axle from rotating. Yes it stiffens the spring but for an entirely different reason - it only stiffens the front half of the spring. Now, instead of being a spring, you basically have a ladder bar - like suspension, pivoting around the front spring eyes.
ever watch an RX-3 launching? watch the rear axle - it gets physically forced downwards relative to the car. why? same effect. The instant center gets located at the front spring eye, and results in tremendous anti-squat, and traction off the line. (Say it with me - leaf springs RULE! )
What kind of 60' times do you have? Just curious. I was thinking about raising the upper links' mounting points on the axle to change the instant center for more anti-squat and more traction off the line. As it is, the stock suspension has a bit of pro-squat - the axle tries to pull itself upwards when you launch, resulting in less traction, which is why I think you're having success with stiffening the suspension (which in theory will make traction a lot worse).
When you accelerate, the pinion gear in the rearend tries to climb up the ring gear. The axle tries to twist the nose end upwards. With leaf springs, what happens there is the spring contorts into a kind of an "s" shape when seen from the side. very bad for the spring and also it leads to wheelhop. The traction bar is just a snubber that prevents the axle from rotating. Yes it stiffens the spring but for an entirely different reason - it only stiffens the front half of the spring. Now, instead of being a spring, you basically have a ladder bar - like suspension, pivoting around the front spring eyes.
ever watch an RX-3 launching? watch the rear axle - it gets physically forced downwards relative to the car. why? same effect. The instant center gets located at the front spring eye, and results in tremendous anti-squat, and traction off the line. (Say it with me - leaf springs RULE! )
What kind of 60' times do you have? Just curious. I was thinking about raising the upper links' mounting points on the axle to change the instant center for more anti-squat and more traction off the line. As it is, the stock suspension has a bit of pro-squat - the axle tries to pull itself upwards when you launch, resulting in less traction, which is why I think you're having success with stiffening the suspension (which in theory will make traction a lot worse).
#12
EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
Join Date: Apr 2001
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Here are the numbers from the "RX7 Performance Handbook" for what its worth:
Stock: F 100
R 85
ST: F 85/120
R 80
Eibach: F 171
R 100
Racing Beat: F 145
R 110
The authors say the ST springs are shitty on the track or autocross, and really just for people who want a soft ride on the street. They also lower the car more than the others, which is not too good as far as I'm concerned.
They recommend the Racing Beat springs as being the best out of all of them, saying they are the ones who have "really done their homework" regarding their choice of spring rates.
As for running different springs front and rear, sounds like a bad idea from a handling perspective in my opinion. Spring sets are designed to work together to balance the car, seems pretty weird to mix them up. I can understand if your goals are strictly drag racing, but I don't think that's true of most people here.
Stock: F 100
R 85
ST: F 85/120
R 80
Eibach: F 171
R 100
Racing Beat: F 145
R 110
The authors say the ST springs are shitty on the track or autocross, and really just for people who want a soft ride on the street. They also lower the car more than the others, which is not too good as far as I'm concerned.
They recommend the Racing Beat springs as being the best out of all of them, saying they are the ones who have "really done their homework" regarding their choice of spring rates.
As for running different springs front and rear, sounds like a bad idea from a handling perspective in my opinion. Spring sets are designed to work together to balance the car, seems pretty weird to mix them up. I can understand if your goals are strictly drag racing, but I don't think that's true of most people here.
Last edited by SilverRocket; 03-18-02 at 09:30 AM.
#13
Are you Nucking Futs?
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peejay must have it correct, stiffening the rear should be bad for drag racing. although a looser front is better. what you want in drag racing, is weight transfer to the rear to help with traction. Normally, if the rear is stiffer, less weight is transfered to the rear.
#14
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
you also dont want all your torgue twisted up in your frame,
i have read huge articles on this in drag racing handbooks,
i would posts some stuff here,but every article is 4-5 pagesd long,
and man thats alot of typing.
i have read huge articles on this in drag racing handbooks,
i would posts some stuff here,but every article is 4-5 pagesd long,
and man thats alot of typing.
#16
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
thats my point,
none to spare,
but for people running 500hp+ they actually do want a softer rear end to hook better,
my car hooks just fine,
look behing the theorys of the gran national gnx
the last year they made the gn,
check out their rear end and theries behind the torque brace bar.
none to spare,
but for people running 500hp+ they actually do want a softer rear end to hook better,
my car hooks just fine,
look behing the theorys of the gran national gnx
the last year they made the gn,
check out their rear end and theries behind the torque brace bar.
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