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Are these 150$ aluminum Radiators any good ?
Note , I have a auto trans and need the trans cooler that the champion radiator doesn't have .
My only other option is buying a new 3 row brass rad like the one in my car today . I have already paid 450$ in repairs and today it sprung a weep , another 200$ repair..
Will that drop into a 79-80 ? I need to mount my stock FMOC .
Edit: Thats a two core radiator , the 140$ ebay one is a 3 core . It's " Muscle cooling" but sold by Racingparts 521 thousands of positive reviews with 99.9% positive reveiws and a 5 year waranty. 149.99 free 4 day shipping.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Row-Aluminum-Radiator-fit-1979-1985-Mazda-RX-7-RX7-S1-S2-S3-1-1L-Coupe-AT-MT-/275331840571?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46 890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0.
I just feel reluctant to buy these rads if they are of poor quality or may burst.
The one I listed will not accommodate the FMOC that bolts to the radiator. I'm not sure Champion make the 1979-1982 oner any longer because they've shown out-of-stock for a long while. The one Jegs has listed for the 1979-1982 will also not work.
I just did a quick eBay search and this one looks promising based on what is there. Never bought this one. It does list the measurements. In your case the height is the important part. It shows connections for the trans cooler and the nutserts for the FMOC that hangs off the radiator.
I just did a quick eBay search and this one looks promising based on what is there. Never bought this one. It does list the measurements. In your case the height is the important part. It shows connections for the trans cooler and the nutserts for the FMOC that hangs off the radiator.
Thats the exact same one design wise as the one im looking at.
Just to be sure , the coolant sensor at the top bolts right in right ?
If not il just buy the OEM brass clone
Thats the exact same one design wise as the one im looking at.
Just to be sure , the coolant sensor at the top bolts right in right ?
If not il just buy the OEM brass clone
I've never bought one of these so I don't know specifics. You'd need to see if they give dimensions of the sensor holes and compare to factory.
FWIW I bought one of the chinese 3-row, SA-specific alum rads. It was a nightmare. None of the mount holes for either the car frame OR the FMOC matched correctly, the bung hole center-top for the level sensor was too big and then it leaked... Crikey.
Based on all the reviews others have posted, my experience was not common it seems. If you can get one thru a US distributor at least you have some hope of support if you have probs. I ended up with a US-made 2-row. This was all 8+ yrs ago now. Hope things have improved!!
If you can find the Spectra brand RX-7 rad they look like factory. The spec is still CU701 I believe. All of my searches come up nill for those also. You might need to get creative with the FMOC and move it forward which means new oil lines.
I have an eBay three-core aluminum radiator and it was much better than I expected it to be. Fitment was nearly perfect, welds were all good, and the fmoc bolted right up. The exception was the coolant level sensor didn't fit, but that hasn't bothered me too much. Same unit appeared to be sold by multiple vendors at the time - I think I paid $147.
The unit linked by KansasCityREPU looks very similar to the one I have, although mine doesn't have the trans cooler ports. On an amusing note, you can tell that wherever they're getting their fitment data from has the wrong spec for the coolant level sensor - looking at it I can guarantee it will not fit.
The issue with eBay stuff is consistency. Taking a look, I can't find the exact one I bought two years ago. The fact is, unless you're willing to take a gamble, you probably want to stick with one of the branded units the others listed above. While the one linked by KansasCityREPU would probably do quite well (except the for level sensor), there is little guarantee of that.
If you can find the Spectra brand RX-7 rad they look like factory. The spec is still CU701 I believe. All of my searches come up nill for those also. You might need to get creative with the FMOC and move it forward which means new oil lines.
You can still find it if you know where to look , Im gonna just bite the bullet and buy the OEM. Brass clone , there is a specra one for 180$ on ebay but the seller has a 50% rating and a disgruntled mexican left a review in spanish saying " ordered months ago , where is my radiator" . Im reading the coolant level sensor doesn't fit on any of them and thats a big no for me as having that part welded and fixed will cost upwards of 50$ . I also refuse to get new oil cooler lines considering i just dropped 150$ on new stainless steel braided ones not even a year ago. Suddenly we go from 140 to 400$ and headaches . Or I can Buy the Clone unit for 300$ .
My '81 runs hot. I would like to replace the radiator, as it is full of deposits despite having run both CLR and evaporust through it. I compete with it on occasion and the rules say that you may replace the radiator but it may be no smaller or lighter than original.
I have a full height radiator, but that would require a different oil cooler setup. Between lines, cooler, and thermostat, we're talking way more than $180. Or $280 for that matter.
I could get one of those aluminum ones but I'd have to do something to weigh it down. And the fitment is not always the greetest, I have an eBay special in my '84 and the outlet is in the wrong angle. I had to use a lower radiator hose from a 2.0l Escort to get the right bends.
My '81 runs hot. I would like to replace the radiator, as it is full of deposits despite having run both CLR and evaporust through it. I compete with it on occasion and the rules say that you may replace the radiator but it may be no smaller or lighter than original.
I have a full height radiator, but that would require a different oil cooler setup. Between lines, cooler, and thermostat, we're talking way more than $180. Or $280 for that matter.
I could get one of those aluminum ones but I'd have to do something to weigh it down. And the fitment is not always the greetest, I have an eBay special in my '84 and the outlet is in the wrong angle. I had to use a lower radiator hose from a 2.0l Escort to get the right bends.
You can have your OEM radiator rebuilt for around 200$ . The issue here is the rebuilders are slime bags .
You can have your OEM radiator rebuilt for around 200$
As far as I know the price of restoring old copper core radiators sky rocketed about 5 years ago. $200 will get you a boil out, pressure test and rattle can paint job, but not much more. Maybe some small repairs to the tanks, tubes or brackets. If you need to replace the core, hang on, the price of admission for a new core starts at about $600 depending on size.
That's where I was with my 69 GMC pickup back in 2018 and I just got a $200 aluminum replacement. I've taken two old SA radiators to the shop this year. Luckily, both were in good condition and passed the pressure test, only one needed a bracket re attached. First one was $187 out the door, the other $167 cause I had a $20 discount coupon from the place.
There are no more local radiator/gas tank shops. They went out of business due to lack of work.
This is true, shear numbers have greatly reduced the last 5-10 years as our collective mentality shifts, considering everything to be more and more disposable. Same for automotive electrical shops, rebuilding alternators and starters. Unfortunately, it will only get worse as the whole EV thing is thrust on us and takes over as the new norm.
This is true, shear numbers have greatly reduced the last 5-10 years as our collective mentality shifts, considering everything to be more and more disposable. Same for automotive electrical shops, rebuilding alternators and starters. Unfortunately, it will only get worse as the whole EV thing is thrust on us and takes over as the new norm.
Buggy makers faced the same delima when the car was introduced. Same goes for the ice man when the refrigerator came along that didn't use ice. And don't get me started about the candle maker and electricity.
I'm going to try to haggle that 50% Rad down to 175$. If anything I can get it refunded if the rad is bad or if the dude trys to pull a scam .
If not I will then order a Aluminum Rad . If that one has fitment issues I will return it and Jist buy the Brass clone for 350$. If that one is solid il hook PJay up with the link . There are 3 vendors that still sell the brass rad and have stock , its just very pricy. I have read our brass rads have to cool better than aluminum but they are coated in lot's of paint.
Probably too far for you to go, but there was a guy up by Sacramento who listed an original 1980 radiator on craigs list earlier this year. Local pickup only, cash. He absolutely will not ship but was only asking $75. PM me if you want his number.
No idea on its actual condition. I believe it's only a two row, as he had a manual 80 tranny on offer too.
Probably too far for you to go, but there was a guy up by Sacramento who listed an original 1980 radiator on craigs list earlier this year. Local pickup only, cash. He absolutely will not ship but was only asking $75. PM me if you want his number.
No idea on its actual condition. I believe it's only a two row, as he had a manual 80 tranny on offer too.
I appreciate it , but at that point im better off driving to get mine fixed.
Im gonna ask the guy on ebay for a discount . Straight up shady he has a 50% but i can always get a refund. If not il post my results with the Ebay Rad. My rad works but on a 102 deg day my car got to 60% and it really worried me. On a hot 85 deg day it gets to 1/3 but on a 95 deg day it climbs in thirds. My car would 100% overheat at 110 deg + temps on the freeway .
06-07-22, 12:47 AM
