IS there bolts on the engine that the header slides onto then botls tighten it, or do i need to buy some bolts? im sticking this in sunday and want to have everything i need already on hand

 

bolt on bolt action sounds a little umm


there are studs that come out of the motor the header slids over and nuts tighten it down....

 

Does your car currently have an exhaust manifold installed? If so, you can probably reuse the hardware for installing the header, provided you don't break any of it. If your header came with a new gasket, you'll want to use that instead of reusing the old one.

IIRC the stock setup has studs w/ nuts on them to hold down the manifold.


edit: doh, 81gsl12a beat me to it.

 

i got new gaskets, yeah it has the manifold, i just have not taken it off for any reason yet...so i was curious

 

Sunday, does this mean you're not coming up Monday?

 

no problem man that is what we are here for....good thinking on the new gasket the old 1 is going to be all crapy and rusted... good luck with the upgrade

cheers PaTricK

 

Actually, i think im going to attempt to put it together, i figure the best way to learn is to di ginto it, IF i do not succeed im giving you a ring

 

K let me know. First thing you need to do tomorrow is go buy a can of P B Blaster, no WD-40 bs either. You'll thank me later or you will be bringing the car up for sure.

Before you start taking the old exhaust off, put the header and pre-silencer together, slide it under the car and see if the length is correct for a direct bolt in. Not all of them are.

Even if it doesn't fit and you need to bring it up, PB all the nuts and bolts anyway, that will save a bit of time.

 

where do i buy it at?

 

Most of the auto parts stores are carrying it now.

 

Soak everything in the PB for as long as you can before you get started. Also, clean off any exposed threads on the end of the studs with a wire brush before you try to take the nuts off.

If you really have to torque on any of them to get them loose, rather than risk breaking one and having to drill it out take the time to put the torch to them. Heat the nut up really good, then place a wet cloth against the end of the stud. This will cause the stud to shrink slightly while the nut is still hot and expanded. Works for me in most situations.

Make sure that you use a good sealant on the block-off plates too.

 

Beeswax works good for drawing the heat out of the stud too.

 

braking studs sucks errr... makes for alot of work...on the plus side the NAPA by my house had the studs in stock wooot for me...i live in a little town and always have to order everything even spark plugs

 

so heat the nut up and make the bolt cold? yeah i dont really want to be drilling that ****** out... thats for sure

 

clean the threads hella good..and spray it with pb blaster from now till sunday

 

Correct. If you have access to an acetylene torch, heat the nut red hot, quench the stud, then immediately start removal. I have never had to go to that extreme yet though.

Usually the combination of the PB and heat will break the rust bond.

 

make sure the nuts are the right thread pitch for your studs in the block. The hardware that was supplied to me by racing beat had the wrong thread pitch on the nuts and stripped the studs, so i had to get new studs and nuts, not that big a deal b/c they are pretty generic and readily available at any napa, but still just make sure.

 

im just going to go to napa and pickup new studs and nuts anyways and have them on hand, what size do i need???

 

just tell them what its for they will tell you what 1's you need

cheers PaTricK

 

OK ran into a problem, most of this has gone smooth, botled up to the motor..but the end of the prescilencer isnt fitting up exactly to the stock muffler, its coming a little short, about half an inch to an inch

 

actually, what the problem is, the threads from thepresilencer wont go straight into the hoels in the sotck system...