I'm getting ready to put down the Dynamat in the interior of my project car. Is there room to put it in side the door cavity, on the outer skin without interfering with the window mechanism? I'll be putting in the power windows from my parts car. My guess is that there's room, but want to be sure.

Thanks,
Rich

 

Yeah there is definatly room, the window mechanism is all on the inner frame of the door, not a whole lot even gets close to the outer skin....

 

Great...thanks!

Rich

 

+1 there should be room. Also search the beginning of new carpet. Teamzzyzx(sp) did the whole interior in his 7 with that stuff, it might be helpful.

 

hey Rich, if your DynoMat is as thin as the SecondSkin (http://www.secondskinaudio.com/) sound barrier I used, you should have no interference problems. There is PLENTY of space between the winder mech and the outer skin. You just need to move the winder up and down to get at various areas in there. The little hand roller mine came with is absolute GOLD at getting it on firmly since its tough to get your hand in there over the whole surface. Just make sure you clean the metal first to max the adhesion. And: GREAT time to re-lube the winder gears!! and swap out that disintegrating door lock gasket...
Did I mention I waxed the whole insides too?
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

Thanks Stu - I appreciate the input. I have everything out of the door since it just came back from paint, so that will make it easier to get at the insides. Also, I'm swapping in the power windows from my SE parts car, and I've already completely cleaned and lubricated the regulator, including completely rebuilding the motors, so I should be good to go on that.

Thanks,
Rich

 

Dynamat looks like the Quick Roof (7 sq ft for $15) that I used to seal my door interior with.

If I do the rear hatch area, will it really deaden the road noise significantly.???

 

I decided to not put dynamat into the door cavity. It looked like it would be too difficult to get the surface good and clean, and difficult to get the Dynamat pressed down tightly. Do people affix it to the inside surface, unter the door panel? If so, does it make fitting the door panel difficult? Anyone have pictures of Dynamat installed on the door?

Thanks,
Rich

 

Im thinking it would fit a bit tight. Dynamat is really neat stuff. If you heat it up and then stick it, it doesnt matter if you stick it to a solid layer of dirt on your door - it wont come off lol.

 

Hey Rich-
assuming D-mat is same as my 2nd Skin, the earlier pic I posted should give you some idea. The 2nd Skin is very thin and the panel fit on with NO problems after. Since this is also how D-Mat shows theirs installed I would have to think it should be as easy?
I know you'll get a lot more deadening benefit if you can layer some inside the OUTER door skin too! Fussy work but rewarding on the road. I went over all the metal with Simple Green to get base dirt off, then followed up with cleaning with Isopropyl alcohol to remove any oil or grease. Again, the supplied roller was excellent for really working the Skin around the contours of the panel... 2yrs now, sticking like glue-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

Thanks Stu - I completely missed your previous post with the picture...sorry. I am pretty much done with the driver's door, but based on what you've said and Ian's post I think I'll try getting some Dynamat into the passenger's door. If that goes ok, I'll go ahead and disassemble the driver's door again and put some in there.

Rich

 

OK...I'm done on the inside of the passenger's door. It really went in relatively easy. The top section is a bit of a bitch but I managed to get some all the way across. What about the support brace running the length of the door midway up...do people cover that? It looks like I could get it covered relatively easy, but don't want to spend the time if there is no benefit. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Rich

 

Any input on this guys? I have the inside of both doors done and ready to put together, except for the brace that runs the length of the door about half way up. If there is benefit to covering this, I will, otherwise I won't fool with it. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Rich

 

If you did most of the inside part of the door then it probably isnt worth doing the brace.

 

I didn't bother with the beam Rich - too tight to the window to get it done thoroughly enough to notice a diff, I figured... ANY on the inside of the outer skin is gravy tho!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

OK...next question. I'm done with the floorboards and tunnel. Thinking about doing the firewall on the poassenger's side and the kick panels. Both look like they'd be a real pain to do, but I figure there would be pretty decent payback for doing them. I think putting it on the firewall would help reduce nose from the engine bay, and on the kick panels it should help the sound system, since I'm going to put a set of 4" speakers in them.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Rich

 

I've done the firewall before with dense fiberglass insulation and it did make it quieter.

 

I used solid foam underlay for house carpet on the widebody floor board. Makes the carpet nice and squishy. The 3" exhaust is so loud that the only thing that helps is ear plugs.

 

Just FYI. I went ahead and did the firewall and kick panel on the passenger's side...It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I'll take it over to the driver's side as far as I can on the firewall but won't be able to do it all since I didn't remove the wiring on that side. I have to look at the kick panel on the driver's side to see if I can do anything with it with the wiring in place.

Rich

 

nice. want to come do my SA?

 

Ha! This is too much like work! It's surprised me how long this is taking. And I'm going to have to order another box of Dynamat. I still have to do the pillars, the roof, and the inside panel of the doors, and I only have one piece of Dynamat left.

Rich

 

how much is the whole car costing to mat?

 

I'll have to check to see what I paid for the two boxes I bought. I'm thinking it was about $165, but I just ran out, and I still need to finish the pillars, the inside panels of the doors, and the roof (if I decide to do it).

Rich

 

Yeah, that Dynamat stuff is NOT cheap. Are you picking it up locally or online somewhere?

I thought about doing this to my car eventually if I re-rip it apart. You know, when I get my career on track next year. Damn college.

Has anyone looked into different alternative brands to Dynamat?

 

OK...I just looked it up. I bought 2 boxes, each with 9 four square foot pieces of Dynamat Extreme, from StereoNeeds (an eBay Store: http://stores.ebay.com/STEREONEEDS-STORE ), for a total of $236.96. But when I search their store now I don't find Dynamat.

Rich