Hello all.

Last night, I accidentally closed my door too hard after a very bs argument with the love, and I left to go to my car and then I accidentally shattered the window. The whole thing.

Lucky for me is that they seem to be $75-80 for a NOS/used piece, but they seem to all be for 86-early 90s. I'm asking if that glass will fit my FB, and if so, is there a diagram for the assembly? I wouldn't think it's terribly difficult but..

If anyone has the knowledge on what fits the window, and how to do it, please enlighten me or point me in a direction. And if the glass I'm looking at won't fit, does anyone have a donor piece I could purchase off of them? Driver side glass?

Greatly appreciated, y'all. Thank you!

 

Wow, you guys must have been really pissed.

Anyway, I got what you need if you pay the shipping. Send me a pm and a mailing address.

And good luck with the lady.

 

FC (86-92) windows won't fit an FB or SA. However, SA and FB glass is identical.

 

Yeah.... :/ It all worked out though. Thanks for the offer! I haven't seen this until now, I'm currently waiting for a replacement glass to come since FedEx fricked it up. If it doesnt make it this time, I will consider your offer! Thanks again

I figured, I just wanted to make sure.. got the glass, made sure it would fit mine (actually it came off another FB in a yard!). Should be coming soon. Do you have any guides on removing the interior panel?

 

Door panel is held on by a series of nylon plugs (mounted to the panel) that fit into receiver holes in the door. These holes have a rubber "pocket" inserted, which the plug pops into. Be warned that these rubber pockets will likely by rotted and will break/tear when pulling the panel. I think mazda still sells them, and I recall you need 11 per door (so that makes 11 plug-in points, on the sides and bottom of the panel).

There are actually special tools - a plastic "pry-bar" styled one in particular, that allow you some gentle leverage between the plug-in and the door, to pop it out without buggering up the panel. A set is all of $20. You can use a BIG flat blade screw driver. The trick is not to damage the door panel where the plug is mounted (clamps into a hole in the door panel itself). As you may know, the actual door panel is just a composite fiber-board material.

The door pull has 3 phillips screws holding it on. The have to come off. Likewise the CAP that surrounds the door-opening handle. The window winder is held by a screw, IIRC, that under the cover of the handle. (some cars use a "C"-clip you need to pop off the actual shaft BEHIND the crank handle, but don't think RX7 does).

Once all this is off, the panel lifts UP off the frame.

Be aware the door panel is weather-protected in the inside with plastic sheets that cover the various access hole in the inner door frame. some of these will need to be removed to get at the window assy, so have spare 6mil plastic and some silicone seal ready to replace these for re-assembly.

The shop manual shows how the window regulator mechanism is removed. Note there is a nylon tab at the base of the regulator frame that acts as a guide for the window. These usually fail with age, so I would buy a new one, ready to go. Otherwise the window will not fit firmly in place on re-assembly.

Good time to RELUBE the mechanics of the regulator with white lithium grease.

Also, check the inside BOTTOM of the door seams. these can start rusting there and it is easy to clean up and rust coat while apart. I used POR15 on mine.

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

Hey, thanks a lot!! Especially to everyone who helped. I replaced it finally and now I don't have to shiver every time I drive home now!

 

fc windows wont fit the fb

 

Oh I know. Thank you though!! I ordered the right one

 

I also did something DUMB >>>-----> I bent the door so it leaks, got a door from a junk yard w/o glass. What is the order for transferring the regulator and the glass from my bent door, to the knarly straight junk yard door. I could figure this out via trial and error, but hey why >>REINVENT THE WHEEL?<<<

this thread is the closest match to I bumped it.

and any tips on the final fit adjustment? It looks like removing the hings from the body is impossible, so I need to separate the door and the hinges. I think it is easiest to 1st put the knarly straight junk yard door on the car. Then derust, prime, paint everything. And save the regulator/glass install for last. The knarly straight door's handle an latch mechanism "look" ok.

 

Hello,

No worries! I'm not so sure about electric windows, if that's what you're talking about with the regulator. I have crank windows, so for me all I did was take off the door handle, arm rest and pocket bolts, lift up slightly on the door card itself, and it more or less comes out simply with a screw attached to the bottom of the glass to the mechanism. It isn't terribly hard to transfer the glass over, if that's what you're wondering. I would suggest to put in new sealer paper and lube the mechanism up as now the cold drafts blowing thru the door are more noticeable

I didn't replace my doors as they're fine, I'm sure with more research or just poking or prodding you can find out how to strip the old door off.. again, I didn't do so and I'm knowledgeable on our 7s but definitely not a mastermind.

tldr;
1. Unscrew door handle, arm rest and door pocket screws hidden under the plastic caps
2. Unscrew door cup and remove door cup (save tiny screw!!!!)
3. Lift up and out gently on the door card, it should pop off fairly easily
4. Wind window down and unscrew bolt holding glass with the mechanism (I forgot if it's inaccessible at the top or bottom, just observe for yourself)
5. Slide it out gently (and don't drop!!

Take a moment to wipe it down as much as you can, just to get some dirt off, besides, you'll get prints on the glass again to install it.. this is up to you.

Hope that helped and answered part of your question - the whole door, I'm not so sure about and I don't want to misguide you, especially when there are more knowledgeable people on this forum.
Have a good day and Happy New Year!

 

It's a manual crank regulator. I've swapped them out before. It was a bitch!! I think the order is install the regulator, then install the glass by slipping it down into the door. Then do the tedious adjustments. I already have a new regulator from when Black Dragon liquidated everything rx-7.

Now I have an extra drivers side electric door window regulator left over. The knarly straight junk yard door was electric. Just some more bull **** that could go wrong.

" you see that, well that's my ******* ****, you leave my ******* **** alone....and you see that, that's her ******* ****, you leave her ******* **** alone.....why you got to mess with everyone's ******* ****? all the ******* time? Oh ya, you say ****, I say ****, how you like that ******* ****".........conversation in a micro electronics clean room wafer fab...."and i've been doing this ******* **** a hell of a lot longer you have!"...........

"Let me ask you something, how long have you been doing this?"<----me
"well certainly long enough!"<------dumb broad
"that's right, so get with the program!!",----my reply

 

Right right, good good. I've never swapped them out.. just the glass... always made sure to baby the glass after that incident lmao.

 

I had to drill out the philips screws holding the horizontal metal piece that goes along the bottom of the door. Broke 2 black and decker bits. Now if this was a ford or chevy, they'd have rivets that rusted through. Hell the whole door would probably be rusted. The door would probably have disappeared, gone back to its natural state Fe O-3 . There were a few rusted pin holes. I used rustoleum rust reformer on the inside along the bottom. I scraped, then used a magnet, then brake cleaner. The brake cleaner had trouble drying, so I used ammonia and paper towel, and then hosed it out.

.So I should be covered with regards to rust?

The electric door is exactly the same as the manual door . I sure wish I bought that electric red door for $20 16 years ago. My car is red, and it would be a simple direct swap!!!

 

I scraped, then used a magnet, then brake cleaner. The brake cleaner had trouble drying, so I used ammonia and paper towel, and then hosed it out. I used rustoleum rust reformer on the inside along the bottom.

.So I should be covered with regards to rust?

any idea of which spray paint rattle can can match a rx-7's red? maybe I should choose a rustoleum red and blast the entire car?

 

I could of easily matched the rx-7's red paint by looking in the engine compartment. Bold as can be on the passenger's side, it says RH (sunrise red). I painted the silver straight $100 junk yard door cherry red. The home depot and lowes has sunrise red in rustoleum spray cans.

What's really impressive is the door bolted right on to the hinges. No ADJUSTMENT necessary. Gotta love Japanese precision!! The door was a year off from my car. I had to replace the driver's door on a porsche 914 thanks to a jealous husband's rage. Getting the door to close right took an afternoon of trial and error adjustments. Then there was the window and regulator. That was another herculean project.