d_eagz13

Ok, so it happened. Oil leak from between the rotor housings... butttttttt I'm not too worried about it because I bought the car with the intentions of putting a newer engine into it. I am looking for suggestions on the most reliable rotary to put in, one that is a little faster than my 32 year old 12a. I was thinking of steering away from a turbocharged one but if the price is right I would have to take it. I just want either a newer 12a or 13b that is relatively easy to find and not too expensive.

Mine is a 1980, have not had a single problem with the car other than a couple ignition wires needed to be soldered. Aside from that just regular maintenance. I saw the dowel leak fix thread and I'm not interested. I'd rather be able to rebuild it or part it out than to drill holes into the engine.

I am in no rush since I have all winter to what I want to it, which is pretty much upgrade everything gradually... I'm not trying to make it a drag car, I just want to modernize it basically. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

DarkDrakeX

they dont make "newer" 12a's they used em in old school rx's as well as the 1st gen rx7 and stopped using em in 86. If u want a "newer" engine that is still a rotary get a 13b but if u want more power but if u dont wana spend an arm and a leg doing a 12a to 13b swap then i would suggest rippin ur 12'a out buying a street port template porting it put on a aftermarket intake and exhaust and ull be pushing 150+ at the wheels.

d_eagz13

What kind of situation am I getting into swapping it with a 13b? I'm not very familiar with the differences. I figured I would have to get the engine, trans, and rear end if I did. Any ideas cost-wise what I would be looking at for a 13b swap? I thought about the porting/rebuild but I read on here that they are not really suitable for daily driving. However, I do love the sound of them!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Just get a Racing Beat front mount bar and use your 12A front cover. Also a GSL-SE oil pan. The front mount bar allows a 13B's extra 20mm length to fit in a 12A chassis. The 13B oil pan is an obvious choice.

Heck I'm in the midst of prepping a 4 port 13B made with parts from the '70s to put in my '81. Well, the R5 side plates are nitrided so maybe very early '80s. I don't bother with early non-hardened side plates so much anymore. They don't stand up to NF01 corner springs all that well.

DarkDrakeX

I have not done a 13b swap myself but $ wise with a swap ur lookin at 3-500 for a engine that u have no idea if it runs more if u decide to crack it open and make sure the seals/housings are good. The rb front mount bar, and a gsl-se oil pan if u dont get a gsl-se engine is a few hundred probably, your gonna need a ECU for the efi,
Your tranny/driveshaft/rear end "should" work

its def not cheap to do it really all depends on your budget.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Look for a GSL-SE pan on this forum in the for sale section. They pop up from time to time for a good price. Otherwise new isn't too expensive.

Also maybe post a want to buy asking if anyone has an RB front mount bar. I wish I had one. I do have a welder though... and some time and a 12A front mount bar and some extra steel. Hmm...

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Beyond the oil leak I am not hearing why you want to swap out. Is the engine down on power? have you had it compression tested to determine its condition? Or does it have a lot (like 150 thou+) of miles on it? or...?

As others have said, unless you want to go the route of a 13B then most any 12a (or 13b for that matter) will likely be older engines too. New Housings for 12as are mostly NLA, and I suspect, unless planning maybe a 13B of a later FC+ engine, the availability of 13B housings is pretty scarce too. AND - should you find new ones, they will be breathtakingly expensive.

Sorry, not trying to shut down your idea, just want to make you aware that the "degree" of "new" engine you may want could be _very_ expensive. Now a lot can be mitigated by some careful shopping AND if you're willing to do your own rebuild, which is actually doable for most anyone handy with a wrench and some good info (various How Too DVDs are a must). The key is decent housings to start with, ported or otherwise. Rebuild kits themselves are only about $125 for the gasket/o-ring set, and another $300 for apex seals and maybe $200 for the oil control rings. Accurate pricing of components can be found on mazdatrix.com's website.

As to your leak. I have an 80 SA too with the dowel leak and I used the recommended stop-leak additive and it is all but gone (your mileage may vary ). So you can at least button up that problem, still drive your SA, and figure out what your options are for replacement. Lots of advice avai here!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

d_eagz13

Honestly I was only thinking 13b because I didn't know really how much I was looking at to rebuild... I figured if I'm going to pay between 500 and 1000 total for a rebuild then I was thinking why not go for the 13b since I am pretty much ***** deep in the situation. I was not aware of this "stop leak additive" so any information on it would be nice 7aull. Also I don't believe it is down on power, but it doesn't seem as quick as it should. I have not had a compression check and I have had no problems anything else other than recently with starting up. It used to start every time, second or third crank, with a tap of the gas pedal. Now I have to give it quite a bit of gas to get it started and every once in a while it starts and dies after ignition....I was thinking fuel filter but the oil leak is my main concern. Tried Barsleak with no results, and another brand i cant remember. I really don't want to have to rebuild since I just got 1500 from some ******* cutting me off and spanking the front end (road rage). I believe the bumper is beyond repair so I wanted to get one that resembles the second gen front end, I just don't want some stupid body kit that looks ridiculous...Looking for something that looks stock.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

stock? - then stick with the SA bumper d-
Don't know what was damaged in your accident but be aware to correctly mount a later bumper (FB) you need the _fenders_ off an FB too. Confess to not being a fan of such conversions so take it FWIW

Leak:
pic of product attached...

My suggestion:
1) you mentioned fuel filter: these MUST be religiously changed once a year. I do it every spring when I bring my SA out of storage. $3 part and is easy to change, in front of DRIVER SIDE REAR wheel. Can solve all sorts of mystery running issues.
2)if you are concerned your compression may be down, there is a good chance your engine's internals may be carbon'd up some. A great product for cleaning this out is SEAFOAM fuel additive ($10) and many forum members use it. I add a can to the GAS (which I do twice a yr), but first time users often see a benefit of adding it DIRECT thru the carb mouth WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING.
You pour it in but not so much you stall the car as you do it; but be warned: there is a H-U-G-E amount of smoke created!!! You want to be doing this well away from the neighbors!!! (like a back country road). Really.
3) after the Seafoam treatment I would change your oil BEFORE adding the No Leak stuff. Get all the other additive crap you've tried, out first....

'luck

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

d_eagz13

Awesome... Thanks for the help. Still though, I didn't mean I wanted the same bumper from the 2nd gen, just one that is similar aka not riced out like crazy. SOmething that looks natural and not like I am trying to be in the next fast and furious

Edit: What type of oil do you suggest for being in Buffalo, NY? I have never used synthetic so I don't think I want to start.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Synthetic Oil-
while there are a few VERY exotic/expensive japanese synth race oils, for street use most here advocate standard Castrol GTX. I run 10-30 summer weight but mine is summer only. For winter you'll need a 5-weight like 5-20, etc.
BIG trick is religious 3000mi changes!!!!!!!!!!!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

d_eagz13

Understood.... The fuel filter did not solve the problem, though. It's becoming a pain to start up so I think it may be the pump....It will crank and start up every time but it will die the first few times within seconds. Also, it has died a couple times while driving. Sometimes I have to rev it to 4-5k when starting so it stays running. I am a little confused with it but it seems like it has to be a fuel issue. The oil leak is apparent, but barely leaks anything at all... I check every couple weeks and it's always full until about 2000-2500 miles past the change.

Ken7102

lucky you, my rear main seal is out, lose all oil in about a week (100ish miles), not only that but but it has caused my clutch to slip. instead of rebuilding i just bought a 13B from a friend and the cost has been generally the same, wont be able to be completely sure until sunday. depending on where you are you should be able to find a motor for a generally cheap price (someone was trying to sell me a whole 2nd gen for 300, motor needed to be rebuilt but there was a rebuild kit included).

d_eagz13

The carb was apparently the starting/running issue.....Pouring Seafoam into it a few times seemed to do the trick.

d_eagz13

Salt in NYS would eat my FB alive! I would never put it thought that kinda of torture lol