Doing TII Swap...
07-05-10, 01:51 AM
#26
Sorry for the long response time... Corksport 3" Downpipe with corksport 80mm resonator, and 3" all the way back to a magnaflow muffler..I'll have to look at what kind again.
As for boost creep, that is something I am a little worried about..Since I'm going with a larger FMIC and 3" exhaust all the way back, would you guys recommend porting my wastegate?
As for boost creep, that is something I am a little worried about..Since I'm going with a larger FMIC and 3" exhaust all the way back, would you guys recommend porting my wastegate?
09-12-10, 07:57 PM
#27
Finally got the motor put in today! It's been a very trying summer- but headway is being made.
However, i'm coming up on a few snags. My FB was initially a automatic GS model, so I'm having to custom fabricate some things for my transmission mount.
Also, I need to acquire the left side harness of an FC, that connects to the ECU. I'm going to be running as stock as possible on the engine until I get an Rtek later on. I know I can mockup a left side harness, but IIRC I still need to get the following from an FC:
-Main Relay (near driver strut tower on the FC)
-Circuit opening relay (inside the car on the steering column)
-fuel pump resistor/injector relay (one unit behind passenger headlight on FC)
It seems more logical just to get the whole left side harness complete with the relays and save some time.
Questions, comments, suggestions? All are really appreciated.
Thanks for looking,
Ian
However, i'm coming up on a few snags. My FB was initially a automatic GS model, so I'm having to custom fabricate some things for my transmission mount.
Also, I need to acquire the left side harness of an FC, that connects to the ECU. I'm going to be running as stock as possible on the engine until I get an Rtek later on. I know I can mockup a left side harness, but IIRC I still need to get the following from an FC:
-Main Relay (near driver strut tower on the FC)
-Circuit opening relay (inside the car on the steering column)
-fuel pump resistor/injector relay (one unit behind passenger headlight on FC)
It seems more logical just to get the whole left side harness complete with the relays and save some time.
Questions, comments, suggestions? All are really appreciated.
Thanks for looking,
Ian
09-12-10, 09:42 PM
#28
Looking good! For the Trans mount you'll have to get creative if it was an auto originally since the mounts are farther forward than the stick cars...
As for the wiring yes you will probably find it easiest to get the whole left side harness from a FC to work with. I found a guy on here (sideways7 I believe was his username) who was scrapping a NA FC. He was nice enought to get the wiring out and ship it to me. He simply cut it at the firewall and sent it in two halves, much easier for the seller this way rather than pulling the whole thing in one piece. You'll be cutting it up anyway so it doesnt matter.
Good luck!
As for the wiring yes you will probably find it easiest to get the whole left side harness from a FC to work with. I found a guy on here (sideways7 I believe was his username) who was scrapping a NA FC. He was nice enought to get the wiring out and ship it to me. He simply cut it at the firewall and sent it in two halves, much easier for the seller this way rather than pulling the whole thing in one piece. You'll be cutting it up anyway so it doesnt matter.
Good luck!
09-16-10, 11:46 PM
#30
Finished the transmission mount today; it's butt-ugly but it does the job.
I wanted to post some pictures about the length of what my driveshaft should be, and see if these are measurements other people had for their swaps too.
In addition to that, I wanted to ask:
-How long is the yoke supposed to be? (for getting a driveshaft made)
-and iirc, the flange supposed to be 3.5" in diameter?
Here's the pictures.
Also,
I'm trying to cut down on the amount of wiring and unnecessary items in the bay; is the electronic (since i have an S5 motor) OMP able to be broken down, but still be connected to keep the car from going into limp mode? As in, the parts that need to be plugged in, kept, and the pump itself removed?
I wanted to post some pictures about the length of what my driveshaft should be, and see if these are measurements other people had for their swaps too.
In addition to that, I wanted to ask:
-How long is the yoke supposed to be? (for getting a driveshaft made)
-and iirc, the flange supposed to be 3.5" in diameter?
Here's the pictures.
Also,
I'm trying to cut down on the amount of wiring and unnecessary items in the bay; is the electronic (since i have an S5 motor) OMP able to be broken down, but still be connected to keep the car from going into limp mode? As in, the parts that need to be plugged in, kept, and the pump itself removed?
09-20-10, 01:21 PM
#32
There was a guy on MAZSPEED who put a S5 motor in a 1st gen (CA stock for smog) and had the OMP electronically plugged in but tucked away mechanicaly and premixed to get the car running. He eventually had a 1st gen front cover made to accept the S5 omp at a local weld shop, which he claimed was a stragiht foward to-do and worked well.
Also, when I swapped over a 2nd gen I had from auto to stick the bracketry me and my father made didn't hold up past a year of daily driving, although I do find myself driving hard more often then not. It eventually broke from a small burnout. I'm sure running TII swapped hard driving or not you'll eventually find if it'll hold up also. The second time around I used heavier gauged angled steel vs flat, welded together forming a sort of H bracket.
As for the driveshaft, I have a place local by me that might be worth checking out even if you have to have it shipped to TN. Nassau Drive Shaft, (516) 867-3680 When I did my swap I told them what I needed & in a week they called saying it was done. Fit perfect and I remember it not being expensive although it was almost 10 years ago.
Also, when I swapped over a 2nd gen I had from auto to stick the bracketry me and my father made didn't hold up past a year of daily driving, although I do find myself driving hard more often then not. It eventually broke from a small burnout. I'm sure running TII swapped hard driving or not you'll eventually find if it'll hold up also. The second time around I used heavier gauged angled steel vs flat, welded together forming a sort of H bracket.
As for the driveshaft, I have a place local by me that might be worth checking out even if you have to have it shipped to TN. Nassau Drive Shaft, (516) 867-3680 When I did my swap I told them what I needed & in a week they called saying it was done. Fit perfect and I remember it not being expensive although it was almost 10 years ago.
09-20-10, 02:24 PM
#33
Well I'm not necessarily worried about smog, so mine will be tucked- but if I don't need to retain the entire pump, I'd rather not.
I initially did a manual transmission swap when I still had a 12a, and didn't have any issues with it. I've used heavy gauge flat steel that is already set up in a sort of "H" bracket. It just looks butt ugly
I appreciate the driveshaft shops number, I'll give them a call today. Thank you
I initially did a manual transmission swap when I still had a 12a, and didn't have any issues with it. I've used heavy gauge flat steel that is already set up in a sort of "H" bracket. It just looks butt ugly
I appreciate the driveshaft shops number, I'll give them a call today. Thank you
09-20-10, 11:12 PM
#34
Ordered my driveshaft from Thrash Driveshaft Specialists in TX. Craig, the builder, recommended a 3" aluminum shaft, and basically told me he wouldn't make a steel one since "60% of the steel shafts he makes for RX-7's have vibration issues past 6,000 rpms"
So, I took his recommendation to get a 3" aluminum shaft, but ended up paying $425 for it after it was all said and done.
He knew what he was talking about, but I definitely ended up spending more money than I thought I would. I look forward to seeing what I get in the mail from them, and the quality of their work.
So, I took his recommendation to get a 3" aluminum shaft, but ended up paying $425 for it after it was all said and done.
He knew what he was talking about, but I definitely ended up spending more money than I thought I would. I look forward to seeing what I get in the mail from them, and the quality of their work.
09-21-10, 09:55 AM
#36
Guess I'm one of the 40% then, the driveshaft on mine is steel and doesn't vibrate. I bought it used on here, but I'm pretty sure thats where it was originally built... Can't say I'd be opposed to aluminum though, sucks that it cost so much more than you were expecting though.
09-21-10, 04:29 PM
#37
I called Nassau, and they never picked up. Like, it didn't even dial. All the other places i called, I was quoted at $325-375 for steel shafts, so i figured why not. I'm not opposed to aluminum, or steel for that matter- was just more than i expected to pay.
09-21-10, 05:10 PM
#38
I got their # off yellow pages to post here...? Now thinking back, mine might of been so much cheaper b/c I did bring them a TII driveshaft. They added the proper 1st gen rear flange, gave it greasable and changeable u-joints and balenced it. I was wondering what your outcome with them was becasue I have to go get another one made up for my newest toy a rotary starlet. With the aluminum driveshaft bling factor now no one will notice the trans bracketry. hehe 
09-21-10, 07:44 PM
#39
s5 Rtek eliminates the limp mode so you can remove the OMP completely. What ECU do you have? N370? N374?
blockoff plate kit (including OMP nozzle plugs): http://banzai-racing.com/store/FC_oi...imination.html
blockoff plate kit (including OMP nozzle plugs): http://banzai-racing.com/store/FC_oi...imination.html
09-22-10, 03:09 AM
#40
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback, but as I said before:
I understand that the Rtek eliminates the omp, but I won't have an Rtek till later on. I will be running off a stock ECU with SAFCII. I have a JDM s5 with a N370.
I already have everything blocked off correctly, and will be running premix. I'm just trying to see if its necessary for to retain the ENTIRE pump when I tuck it away.
A starlet! that should be interesting to see. I'd love to see some pictures, if you get a chance. That's a good point about the shaft, haha. Hopefully the engine will have enough bling that people won't go looking under there to begin with.
I understand that the Rtek eliminates the omp, but I won't have an Rtek till later on. I will be running off a stock ECU with SAFCII. I have a JDM s5 with a N370.
I already have everything blocked off correctly, and will be running premix. I'm just trying to see if its necessary for to retain the ENTIRE pump when I tuck it away.
I was wondering what your outcome with them was becasue I have to go get another one made up for my newest toy a rotary starlet. With the aluminum driveshaft bling factor now no one will notice the trans bracketry. hehe
09-22-10, 07:07 AM
#42
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback, but as I said before:
I understand that the Rtek eliminates the omp, but I won't have an Rtek till later on. I will be running off a stock ECU with SAFCII. I have a JDM s5 with a N370.
I already have everything blocked off correctly, and will be running premix. I'm just trying to see if its necessary for to retain the ENTIRE pump when I tuck it away.
I understand that the Rtek eliminates the omp, but I won't have an Rtek till later on. I will be running off a stock ECU with SAFCII. I have a JDM s5 with a N370.
I already have everything blocked off correctly, and will be running premix. I'm just trying to see if its necessary for to retain the ENTIRE pump when I tuck it away.
09-23-10, 02:12 PM
#43
I searched for some good pictures and only ones I have show the thing being faaaaar from done. Here's one from Jan 2010, my little brother in the background was helping me that day. Slowly been doing all the bodywork / preping for paint since then.
I should make my own thread soon. Good luck with yours.
I should make my own thread soon. Good luck with yours.
09-26-10, 12:18 AM
#45
Got the driveshaft shipped the other day. Glad I payed the extra money. It looks fabulous and using my hand-dandy "arm-weighing" technique I was able to "scientifically" determine that it weighs half that of my old 12A driveshaft. 
So the 3" aluminium shaft was worth the price, in my opinion.
Also, got the intercooler installed today:
Afterwards, I had to get to work- but considering I only went out to tinker a bit today, I'm glad with what I accomplished.
So the 3" aluminium shaft was worth the price, in my opinion.Also, got the intercooler installed today:
Afterwards, I had to get to work- but considering I only went out to tinker a bit today, I'm glad with what I accomplished.
01-28-11, 09:58 PM
#46
It's been a long time since I've posted anything, so I thought I'd update. Quite a bit more has been finished.
Engine wiring harness has been stripped down
Oil cooler has been mounted
Intercooler has been mounted properly and I finished custom brackets for the radiator as well, to fit the intercooler and oilcooler.
Belts have been put on
Emissions removed
Braided-steel brake lines and new pads and calipers
IC Piping has been mocked up
HKS megaflow filter
Tucked the left-side body harness
oil catch-can installed
All of the new interior wiring still has to be done (including the new gauges: wideband 02, boost, oil pressure, water temp) But a lot of progress has been made. Looking at firing it up in the next two weeks!
Questions/comments?
Engine wiring harness has been stripped down
I also moved the wiring for OMP into the cabin so I can hide it under the dash for time being.
Coils have been mounted.Oil cooler has been mounted
Intercooler has been mounted properly and I finished custom brackets for the radiator as well, to fit the intercooler and oilcooler.
Belts have been put on
Emissions removed
Braided-steel brake lines and new pads and calipers
IC Piping has been mocked up
HKS megaflow filter
Tucked the left-side body harness
oil catch-can installed
All of the new interior wiring still has to be done (including the new gauges: wideband 02, boost, oil pressure, water temp) But a lot of progress has been made. Looking at firing it up in the next two weeks!
Questions/comments?
01-29-11, 04:05 AM
#49
Thank you. It's an NPR Isuzu Intercooler. Fits perfectly in the ducting hole in front of the radiator. I had some issues figuring out how I wanted to mount it using the original radiator supports, so I made custom brackets for both for better fitment.