Doing TII Swap...
01-29-11, 10:59 AM
#52
Percentage,
I really DON'T like the location of your Oil Cooler. It handles nearly 1/3 of the cooling of a Rotary, and with a HOT INTERCOOLER in front of it, it's not going to work well. I am afraid you will end up cooking the oil in the turbo, and the rest of the system.
If you have the means or opportunity to move it where it
can get a fresh airstream, I would do it.
That's just my opinion. YMMV.
01-29-11, 07:36 PM
#56
There is nothing wrong with the size of that intercooler.
Mine is the same size, and I have even more charge pipe (mine is mounted upside down). I have full boost before 3000 RPM.
Lag is 90% based on turbo sizing and tuning. 10% is intercooler/charge-pipe size.
Mine is the same size, and I have even more charge pipe (mine is mounted upside down). I have full boost before 3000 RPM.
Lag is 90% based on turbo sizing and tuning. 10% is intercooler/charge-pipe size.
01-29-11, 10:37 PM
#63
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very cool info wish i had money to do that ^.^ i have to agree with the other guys about moving the oil cooler to a better spot with that size intercooler the oil cooler in fount couldn't hurt the flow.
01-30-11, 12:05 AM
#65
I had similar concerns about oil heat. Having the cooler in front is a viable option if the stock lines have enough length. If not, some new steel-braided lines would be in order. Thanks for the pointers.
As far as the intercooler is concerned, full boost at around 3k is what I wanted. This car will be driven often around town and this will allow me flexibility of driving the car hard when I want, and not when I don't want to without being worried about being hard on the motor all of the time. The intercooler, from the research I did does not allow for much pressure drop, even at low PSI, but will enable me to support more PSI when [I said when because I know it will happen, boost is addictive] I want it.
As far as the intercooler is concerned, full boost at around 3k is what I wanted. This car will be driven often around town and this will allow me flexibility of driving the car hard when I want, and not when I don't want to without being worried about being hard on the motor all of the time. The intercooler, from the research I did does not allow for much pressure drop, even at low PSI, but will enable me to support more PSI when [I said when because I know it will happen, boost is addictive] I want it.
02-02-11, 02:24 PM
#66
So, I'm going through the wiring for the "lower left side" FC Harness that goes to the relays and coil packs, and I have a few wires left that I'm curious if I could get some help with.
I was able to strip down the harness to this:
From all of this:
But I have a few loose wires that I have questions about:
On the yellow gangplug that goes directly from the FC "left side" harness to the FC engine harness I have two wires that are not hooked up to anything: A Yellow with white wire and a Black with red wire. Are these necessary?
Also on my fuel injector/fuel pump resistor relay, do I need to retain the wiring for the fuel pump resistor part? And if so, what would I plug them into? My car was originally a 12a and I have my new fuel pump relayed off the battery itself, using the original fuel pump harness. The wires I mean are Blue with green
Finally, for the circuit opening relay, it ties into a ground junction that doesn't seem to be necessary, would it be safe to just go ahead and ground the circuit opening relay to the chassis?
I was able to strip down the harness to this:
From all of this:
But I have a few loose wires that I have questions about:
On the yellow gangplug that goes directly from the FC "left side" harness to the FC engine harness I have two wires that are not hooked up to anything: A Yellow with white wire and a Black with red wire. Are these necessary?
Also on my fuel injector/fuel pump resistor relay, do I need to retain the wiring for the fuel pump resistor part? And if so, what would I plug them into? My car was originally a 12a and I have my new fuel pump relayed off the battery itself, using the original fuel pump harness. The wires I mean are Blue with green
Finally, for the circuit opening relay, it ties into a ground junction that doesn't seem to be necessary, would it be safe to just go ahead and ground the circuit opening relay to the chassis?
02-03-11, 11:00 PM
#70
Going after one wire at a time, the only Black / Red wire I am finding is coming off the ECU but doesn't go out to the engine bay. It stays inside the car.
On that yellow plug in your picture above, how many pins are there total and what position is the Black / Red so I can tell if I do indeed have the correct wire.
Or if you can take a picture of it face on that would prob work best.
On that yellow plug in your picture above, how many pins are there total and what position is the Black / Red so I can tell if I do indeed have the correct wire.
Or if you can take a picture of it face on that would prob work best.
02-08-11, 08:31 AM
#72
I pm'd you back, that yellow plug only needs the 4 black wires (they power the injectors if i remember right) and teh skinny brown wire that goes to the circuit opening relay.
You can just ground that black wire off the circuit opening relay right to the body, thats what I did and no issues.
Not sure what you should do with the fuel pump resistor, you might want to check on the FC forum, I know at least a few people have removed that setup on their FC, but you do need to keep the injector relay that is also on there so not sure how you should wire it.
Looks like you're getting there!
You can just ground that black wire off the circuit opening relay right to the body, thats what I did and no issues.
Not sure what you should do with the fuel pump resistor, you might want to check on the FC forum, I know at least a few people have removed that setup on their FC, but you do need to keep the injector relay that is also on there so not sure how you should wire it.
Looks like you're getting there!
02-12-11, 06:06 PM
#73
In the finishing steps with the wiring:
I decided to tuck the body harness as much as possible, and in doing so I ran it through the fender:
When tearing down harness, I decided to build a new grounding circuit and put new connectors on significant things like the headlights.
Have the fenders back on, and just have to do the interior wiring and put the dash back in:
I decided to tuck the body harness as much as possible, and in doing so I ran it through the fender:
When tearing down harness, I decided to build a new grounding circuit and put new connectors on significant things like the headlights.
Have the fenders back on, and just have to do the interior wiring and put the dash back in:
02-20-11, 10:34 PM
#74
She runs! Had some issues with vacuum leaks, and once sorted out she stabled out pretty well.
As already stated, i am having some minor issues with boost creep, it plateau's at 10lbs. until creep and only goes to 12lbs. However, I'm using SAFCII to adjust for boost creep, and am having good luck at maintaining good idle and good AFR's under boost.
Ii kept the oil cooler where i originally planned, and kept an eye on the oil temps during some spirited driving today, and did not have any issues with overheating. If it becomes an issue in the future, then i will address it then.
I'm currently running GlowShift gauges: (The wiring mess has since been cleaned up)
wideband 02
boost
oil pressure
oil temp
water temp
As well as Apexi SAFCII for tuning.
I'm keeping the rpm's under 5000 until the first 500 miles of break in with fresh oil. That being said, very glad I did the swap. So far, the car is a ton of fun.
I also installed aluminum spacers for my wheels, they're supposed to be for the rikens and when I get my fender flares put on (giving me an old school wheel with a spaced out aggressive stance that I want) They're from technotoytuning.com and they are technically wheel adapters, but I had them made in 4x110 on both sides so they could just be used as a 33mm spacer.
As already stated, i am having some minor issues with boost creep, it plateau's at 10lbs. until creep and only goes to 12lbs. However, I'm using SAFCII to adjust for boost creep, and am having good luck at maintaining good idle and good AFR's under boost.
Ii kept the oil cooler where i originally planned, and kept an eye on the oil temps during some spirited driving today, and did not have any issues with overheating. If it becomes an issue in the future, then i will address it then.
I'm currently running GlowShift gauges: (The wiring mess has since been cleaned up)
wideband 02
boost
oil pressure
oil temp
water temp
As well as Apexi SAFCII for tuning.
I'm keeping the rpm's under 5000 until the first 500 miles of break in with fresh oil. That being said, very glad I did the swap. So far, the car is a ton of fun.
I also installed aluminum spacers for my wheels, they're supposed to be for the rikens and when I get my fender flares put on (giving me an old school wheel with a spaced out aggressive stance that I want) They're from technotoytuning.com and they are technically wheel adapters, but I had them made in 4x110 on both sides so they could just be used as a 33mm spacer.