1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Do I need a clutch?

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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 08:59 PM
  #1  
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Do I need a clutch?

When I got my car it was non running and I didn't know the history of it.But from what I gather its been sitting for at least 6 years. When I finally got it running the clutch didn't work. I found out the hydraulics were leaking, so I replaced them and they now worked but the clutch didn't release. Then someone on the forum gave me the idea that the clutch disc could be stuck. I found some solutions on Google and tried a few using the starter. Finally I got annoyed and tried another one. I took the car into the parking lot next to my house. I started it in first gear then put the clutch to the floor and stomped the gas and let off 3 or 4 times then all the sudden Vrooooom. No the clutch engages and disengages I can shift gears. But I can put it in 1st and it goes in and will roll at idle speed, but as soon a I try to accelerate the car creeps along and free revs. It does the same thing in 2nd and 3rd. To me it sounds like the clutch is shot am I right? Ive never had a car with a totally shot clutch before. Ive had when they were going bad and you go up hill and have to practically floor it but never this bad. So Im just questioning it.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 06:47 AM
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The exedy clutch kit is about $100.00. Go for it.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:17 AM
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Sounds like the clutch is trashed to me. Either way you will have to drop the tranny to find out.

In which case replace the pilot bearing, clutch, pressure plate, machine the flywheel to spec, and
I'd do the throwout bearing as well. Extra points for replacing the front and rear oil seals on the
tranny as well. Good time to look at the ujoints on the driveshaft too.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 12:47 PM
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Whats a good place to get the clutch kit from? Most I saw were about 150. Also from what I'm reading the pilot bearing has a seal behind it. How difficult is it to change? I've done just the disc and pressure plate and throw out bearing before but never a pilot. I've heard of packing it full of grease then hammering a bolt into it and the hydraulic pressure popps out the pilot bearing does it actually work?
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7TR7
Whats a good place to get the clutch kit from? Most I saw were about 150. Also from what I'm reading the pilot bearing has a seal behind it. How difficult is it to change? I've done just the disc and pressure plate and throw out bearing before but never a pilot. I've heard of packing it full of grease then hammering a bolt into it and the hydraulic pressure popps out the pilot bearing does it actually work?
Exedy makes a good clutch kit. Mazdtrix and Racing Beat resell some nice
alternatives as well.

Pilot bearing has seal on the front thats easy to popout like any bearing seal. You
will need a pilot bearing puller with the ends slight rounded. The standard one from
an autoparts store works, just file down the outside corners so it can get back into
the bearing and pull it out. I've never heard of the grease trick working well.

The pilot bearings on 7s are notorious for failure, so replacing it while the tranny is out
will save you another tranny pull a few months later.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 01:31 PM
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I just bought a complete Exedy kit for my car. Best price I found was a place in Kansas called AM-Autoparts. Easy to Google.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 01:34 PM
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Do I need a clutch?-image-2149885956.jpg

That's rockauto.com. The exedy kit is excellent, and I think cheaper on Amazon. Whether you have an '83 or later vs. earlier model is relevant.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 01:38 PM
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AM-Auto is an alternate name for Rockauto on EGay?

That makes sense, their service was awesome.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 08:35 PM
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When you get it apart let us know what you find, I am curious.
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 09:51 PM
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While we're on the subject of clutches, experienced an unusual problem today. At low speed my gearbox is smooth as butter, when I get up to +5k RPM I had to fight to get the gears to change. It got so bad that I'd have to drop it in neutral and depress the clutch pedal 2-3 times before shifting. Same problem up shifting and downshifting. Cylinder level is ok and clutch master and slave seem ok. What could be the cause?
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 12:14 AM
  #11  
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pilot bearing starting to fail
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 12:50 AM
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Thanks Husky, I suspected it was the pilot bearing. Going to order one and make preparations for dropping the gearbox.
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 01:23 AM
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I would actually guess it to be either clutch disk wear or throw-out bearing going bad vs. the pilot bearing.

Years ago, my pilot bearing was going out and you could only tell by the grinding sound you'd hear when sitting at a light at a dead stop with the clutch pedal IN - this is where the engine is turning (and the pilot bearing with it) against a transmission input shaft that is NOT turning; i.e., the bearing is spinning as fast as it ever will. Once you engage the clutch, the pilot bearing and input shaft are moving at the same rotational speed - so no noises. Check this by putting the gear shift lever in neutral and then letting out the clutch - sound goes away = bad pilot bearing.

One day, the pilot bearing got so loud it was almost unbearable, then GRRRRRRRRwheeeeeeeee (quiet). Bearing grenade and tore itself into small enough pieces so that it no longer posed any resistance to the input shaft. Dead silent - like it's not even there (because it's not!). I'll eventually put a new bearing and grease seal in when I change motors, but it's run just fine for over 10k miles without a pilot bearing or seal - which is there to center up the input shaft under load and prevent vibration between engine and transmission.

My original point is that if the gears are hard to shift at high speed, it's probably because the clutch is not fully disengaged, allowing the engine speed to drop for the next gear change. Your synchro's can only do so much to line up gear teeth. Good luck,
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 07:43 AM
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I agree.
When you said that sometimes you had to push the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times to get it to shift It sounds like you are have to "pump up" the slave cylinder to get it to disengage the clutch. You mentioned that the hydraulics were good. What leads you to this conclusion? Sometimes it is hard to tell.
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 07:56 AM
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Holy thread hijack placd1! Does sound like a clutch issue and not a pilot bearing issue. Pilot is
only doing something when the clutch is pushed in.
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 11:15 AM
  #16  
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it's the clutch. I see you are in NJ, oh god!! Hope you know a good mechanic that respects old cars. The idiot that did replaced my clutch in NJ f'd everything else you could FU......exhaust, motor mounts, heat shields, center consul.....

If you are doing the work yourself, it's a great time to check for under body rust. At the very least, spray the all the exhaust nuts and bolts with liquid wrench, and let it sit over night befroe taking the car to a mechanic. Busted bolts will be one less thing he can/will FU.
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Old Oct 17, 2014 | 10:34 PM
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Lol, sorry for jacking the OP's thread. You guys were right on both counts actually. Mechanic buddy drove the car today and both bearings need replacing! Ordered the pilot and throw out bearings from Rock Auto. Should be here next week. Thanks again for the comments and advice.
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Old Oct 18, 2014 | 12:52 AM
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Bad pilot bearing will cause hang up causing the shaft to continue turning some amount even when the clutch is disengaged. Thus the difficult shifting symptom.
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