1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

DIY: Lift Support Replacement

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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 01:26 PM
  #1  
slate84's Avatar
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From: Brookings SD
DIY: Lift Support Replacement

ok, last night i was grabbing some stuff out of the back of the 7 when she decided to attach me (hockey stick support slipped), so i decided its time to replace the lift supports. I've heard of people having problems with the stregth of the VB ones, being mine has louvers on it, and i didn't want to pay 40 bucks a pop for the mazda trix one. i went to the local advance auto parts and i ordered the armstrong 4709's at 16 bucks a pop.

the armstorng struts


the parts that come with it, c-clip, new ball joint, new pin


my 84gs that attacked me


i'm sure we've all seen this before, my choice was a cut down hockey stick. make sure the glass is supported well so it doesn't whack you while your trying to fix it.


this is the factory c-clip, mount, and bracket.


take a flat head, place it in the little opening at the closed side of the c-clip and give it a poke. it should pop right off.


now take a phillips and poke the old pin out releasing the lift support from the bracket on the glass.


at the bottom of the strut you will see a ball joint that is secured to the car with a 12mm fitting.


use a open ended 12mm wrench to loosen this. be carefull cause theres a washer between the bolt and hole, it should stay there due to the pressure from the panel.


take the new ball joint and start screwing it in. i noticed the nut was a little smaller and sunk into the panel a little further so i hand tighten it then put a cloth over the ball and used a slip joint pliers to tighten it up.
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 01:26 PM
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From: Brookings SD
now take the top of the lift support and place the braket in like the factory on was. slide the pin through. i used the slip joint to slightly bend them toward eachother to slip the c-clip in since its a tight fit.


now take the other end of the strut and simply pop it on to the new ball joint. repeat with other side. done.



i hope this could save you all a couple bumps on the head. its a good feeling to have it done.
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 01:29 PM
  #3  
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From: Austin, TX
I just did the left one on my car because I didn't want to mess w/ the rear wiper. The Strong Arm strut is plenty strong enough to hold the hatch open w/ a single good strut.
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 01:32 PM
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by rearviewmirror
I just did the left one on my car because I didn't want to mess w/ the rear wiper. The Strong Arm strut is plenty strong enough to hold the hatch open w/ a single good strut.
+1

FB owners = cheap ***
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 01:36 PM
  #5  
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From: Brookings SD
you "should" always replaced them in pairs. the weight of the glass not supported on one side can crack it. i don't have the rear wiper so i was ok, but i do have louvers so one wouldn't be enough anyway.
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 01:40 PM
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I always heard it would prematurely wear out your new strut. I find it hard to believe that preference for a single side would crack the glass besides my old struts would hold the window long enough to make you think its gonna hold. Then like the OP's 7, it attacks!
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 01:44 PM
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From: Brookings SD
there was no hold in mine, if the hockey stick moved, CRACK on the back of the head.
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 04:00 PM
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Only replacing one strut will cause extra twisting force on the hinges, something they were not designed for.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 10:24 AM
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From: SF BayArea
There's no Advance store in this state, and the online store led me to the same $32 strut that I got once at NAPA. You might want to stockpile those $16 strutsand/or resell them on ebay for, say, $45 a pair. If you can still find them in your area.
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