1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Diff. Upgrade for a 1st Gen

Old 02-01-04, 07:10 AM
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Diff. Upgrade for a 1st Gen

Hi, does anyone know of a shop that has complete 'bolt on' replacement rear end for the 1st gens ? Like a Ford 8.8" or 9" rear ?
Old 02-01-04, 09:34 AM
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i wouldnt say "bolt on", but Eville140 did it on his car. but he fab'd up alot of stuff for it. the only real bolt on your going to get with changing the rear diff (or rear end) is if you upgrade to a gsl or gslse rear. which will give you a lsd, and the gslse will give you a 4.10 final drive and vented rear disks, but change your bolt pattern.
Old 02-01-04, 10:24 AM
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Grannysspeedshop supposedly carries a ford 8.8 ready to bolt into a 1st gen, but I lost the link.
Old 02-01-04, 04:33 PM
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Originally posted by Directfreak
Grannysspeedshop supposedly carries a ford 8.8 ready to bolt into a 1st gen, but I lost the link.
He sells a 8.75" mopar or a ford 9" that will bolt in with axles and housing for $725.oo

You will still need to get a diff and gears


From his site
"REAR AXLE UPGRADE Narrowed 8-3/4 Mopar or 9" Ford
Housing with Axles and attached brackets. Bolt-in
Specify width.......................................725.00 "

Later
Randy
Old 02-01-04, 04:43 PM
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the 8.8 upgrade is probably the way to go,

the only real problem I see is getting the right bolt patterns
Old 02-02-04, 03:52 AM
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Hey dudes,

Thanks for all the info. I really appreciate it very much. I will follow up on this and let you guys know what I eventually do...
Old 02-02-04, 07:42 AM
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If you can do some of the work yourself, the 8.8" is the cheapest route to go. And one from a musatng will be the right width to go with se front suspension.
For my whole swap including the new driveshaft, panhard bar, rear end, welding wire/gas, pretty much everything. I would have around $175 in the whole thing.
For axles, the mustang axles are four lug, So I just went in between them with the 4 lug pattern that I wanted. Drilled them at home, tapped them for .5" studs.

Later
Randy
Old 02-02-04, 09:56 AM
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Randy, do you have disc brakes on yours? If so - Which ones?
Old 02-02-04, 03:39 PM
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Originally posted by Directfreak
Randy, do you have disc brakes on yours? If so - Which ones?
No, I am still using the drums. Lincoln Mark 7 11” rotors are a pretty easy swap, and you can keep the mustang length axles with them by flipping the caliper bracket to the opposite side of the backing plate.
But going with these you will need a different master cylinder and a proportioning valve.
Those two and the fact I want to run 13” rims with slicks is keeping me from changing them.

If you had access to a lathe or ordered different axle it wouldn’t be much trouble to get the stack Mazda disks to work. But is it was, the Mazda rotors where to small to fit over the axle flange.

Later
Randy
Old 02-02-04, 04:24 PM
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So what axle would you recommend to fit stock Mazda brakes on?
Old 02-02-04, 07:00 PM
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The stock axles would work fine if you could turn them down some. The problem was that the mazda disk hat (on my gsl) was smaller than the axle flange on the ford rear. I thought about grinding it down, but it would of took more time than I wanted to spend.
If you ordered custom axles from strange or moser, etc. you could tell them what you need and problem would be solved.

You would still have to fab up your own caliper brackets and stuff, but after all the work of cutting of suspension brackets and figuring out where to weld them back on. The brakes would be pretty easy.

Later
Randy
Old 02-02-04, 07:29 PM
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What size of master cylinder would be required for discs vs. the stock -SE one? A proportioning valve would be a must regardless of brakes, but they'd do sell pretty cheap ones at summit, among other places.
Old 02-02-04, 08:54 PM
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how big are SE front brakes.

I wouldnt want to have a bigger disc in the rear, it would be difficult to balance the braking system.


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