Died after about 30min of driving
#1
Died after about 30min of driving
I thought I had finally got my 7 road worthy [84 12a nikki rebuilt no emissions] I was cruisin around all like for about 30 min. Then she loses a bunch of power and just dies. I was able to get her started again and drive then power loss and faint. I did this repeated times being able to drive for shorter amounts of time each instance, until i was unable to drive.
I unplugged the inlet hose and it was dry so I thought fuel pump has croaked under the pressure of real life driving. Then I thought maybe it was an ignitor failing under heat (power loss), in turn switching off the fuel pump relay(death and dry fuel lines). I got a fuel pump today and I'm gonna see if that fixes her. Praying that it does because I'm outta money and I dont even know where to find an ignitor...
I just wanted to see if there were any more thoughts and input on which one it is more likely to be, or what else it could be. Engine compression is perfect, carb has been rebuilt, ran great for a while.
I unplugged the inlet hose and it was dry so I thought fuel pump has croaked under the pressure of real life driving. Then I thought maybe it was an ignitor failing under heat (power loss), in turn switching off the fuel pump relay(death and dry fuel lines). I got a fuel pump today and I'm gonna see if that fixes her. Praying that it does because I'm outta money and I dont even know where to find an ignitor...
I just wanted to see if there were any more thoughts and input on which one it is more likely to be, or what else it could be. Engine compression is perfect, carb has been rebuilt, ran great for a while.
#5
Lives on the Forum
Could be the relay under the dash too.
What you should do when it dies is look in the float bowl windows. If they are empty, then you know you have a fuel delivery issue.
.
What you should do when it dies is look in the float bowl windows. If they are empty, then you know you have a fuel delivery issue.
.
#6
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
the leading and trailing ignitors. If it runs better then your leading was going. If
you still have the issue. Put things back and swap the coils. Either of these show
failures in heat stress.
#7
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
Welllll - you say "finally got it roadworthy" which suggests its been sitting for a long time?? If so and incorrectly stored re: fuel (full tank with stabilizer added is suggested) then you might have at least bad gas or more likely a bunch of sludge floating around the tank which will drift into the take-up, stall the engine, then once the car sits a bit, the sludge drifts _away_ from the take-up, you get the car restarted and the cycle repeats. Solution is usually a tank-out and have it professionally chem-dunked at a rad shop then re-seal the tank (kits are available you can do this yourself: POR15.com is one place that sells such a kit for about $30).
Prob is tank innards may have corroded and are now actively shedding into the gas, so this process will continue till the tank gets properly cleaned and sealed. Been there with same symptoms and this was the problem.
As DD suggests - if your fuel filter is clogged, replace it, then if it RE-clogs, you know the tank make be the problem BUT be aware it may also be clogging IN the tank at the pick-up and not show itself in the filter too....
PITA but doable home repair. Your 84 has a gas tank drain so that helps.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Prob is tank innards may have corroded and are now actively shedding into the gas, so this process will continue till the tank gets properly cleaned and sealed. Been there with same symptoms and this was the problem.
As DD suggests - if your fuel filter is clogged, replace it, then if it RE-clogs, you know the tank make be the problem BUT be aware it may also be clogging IN the tank at the pick-up and not show itself in the filter too....
PITA but doable home repair. Your 84 has a gas tank drain so that helps.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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#8
talking head
if the tank purge line to the charcoal trap is blocked or the valve faulty you can also get fuel lock issues
( tank may bulge,, or may suck inwards cause there is no pressure equalisation )
if it happens again just look underneath at the tank
usually lifting the fuel cap will reset the condition and allow the car to drive some distance before it happens again
usually you see this issue when people install a weber /aftermarket carb and delete the charcoal trap and seal over the 3rd tank line
but also happens on some imports and some cars that have spend some time sitting around
usually it is common to find a wasp has crawled up open vent lines and laid eggs/ cocoon in there
- its happened to me on around half a dozen occasions with various cars,, so is more than just a one off
-- also believe current rx8 has same issue with some wasps finding the evap system makes a very good home and there is bulletins to that effect
( tank may bulge,, or may suck inwards cause there is no pressure equalisation )
if it happens again just look underneath at the tank
usually lifting the fuel cap will reset the condition and allow the car to drive some distance before it happens again
usually you see this issue when people install a weber /aftermarket carb and delete the charcoal trap and seal over the 3rd tank line
but also happens on some imports and some cars that have spend some time sitting around
usually it is common to find a wasp has crawled up open vent lines and laid eggs/ cocoon in there
- its happened to me on around half a dozen occasions with various cars,, so is more than just a one off
-- also believe current rx8 has same issue with some wasps finding the evap system makes a very good home and there is bulletins to that effect
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