ONLY use ngk or denso plugs!!! a normal plug is to long ....even thought they list it to fit... and it will do what you are showing....HIT THE SEAL

 

"L" leading...lower
"T" trailing....top

 

I'm using autolights, and I've notice my car has been runnin alittle crappy. I don't know if its related, but my car over heats now, and runs like **** when the choke it on

 

good to find this out now. I never liked Autolites in my american boingers anyway.

 

Perhaps if the trailing plugs bottomed out, it would push and distort the soft alluminium housing. If it distorts enough it could create quite a shock load to the apex seals as they pass over it at high speed. In that case, the plugs would only have a small rubbed spot from being torqued down against the housing.

Does the damage on the leading plugs look different than on the trailing ones?

 

***The thing measure approx (6 inch scale & eyeball) .875 inches from the mounting side of a uncrushed washer to the very tip of the ground.***

I need to apologize to all. The eyeball dimension .875 from an earlier post by myself is actually .806 inches Sorry. : (

Now for the FACTS with a new Autolite # 2526 plug purchased for $2.09 including tax from Auto Zone.

The ground extends .037 inches beyond the electrode.
The distance from the crushed washer to the far side of the ground is .806 inches.

Measuring the distance of the LEADING plug hole from the chamber side of the rotor housing to the electrode is .155 inches, minus the .037 inch distance from the electroid to the far side of the ground equals .118 inches. The distance that the ground is located inside the plug hole is .118 inches. The LEADING plug (that I have ) DID NOT touch the apex seal. : )

Measuring the distance of the TRAILING plug hole from the chamber side of the rotor housing to the electrode is .319 inches, minus the .037 inch distance from the electroid to the far side of the ground equals .282 inches. The distance that the ground is located inside the plug hole is .282 inches. The TRAILING plug (that I have ) DID NOT touch the apex seal. : )

This information shows that using the same plug & measuring two different distances from the chamber side of the rotor housing to the ground (extreme tip of the plug) of the plug that the LEADING & TRAILING plugs rotor housing mounting surfaces are at two different distances from the chamber side (or outhside of the rotor housing) of the rotor housing. For support of this info take a look at your OEM eyelashes on the outside of the rotor housings. Eyelashs being the 180* raised cast alum material at the plug holes. The TRAILING eyelash protrudes out farther than the LEADING eyelash & at both positions the bottom of the plug hex (shape for the socket to fit) eyeball matches surfaces with the outer surface of the eyelash.

Also noted, while looking at the chamber side of the rotor housing is that on the down side of the LEADING & the TRAILING plug holes is that there is a drag path (from the apex seal) the width of the respective hole.

David

 

yes
the trailings look fine

im thinking its from detonation
but ill find out for sure

 

just a re-cap
in a week or so, I am FINALLY going to pull my engine and crack it open (unless im lazy)

(school starts, and i can use the shop there)


ill look and see how the plug holes look

 

yeah definitly keep us updated...thats some scary ****

on to my autolite story:

so i work at a schucks auto parts store, some kid comes in with an 83 with a 13b in it (check sig), to make a long story short there, i bought it from him about a month later. well he drops the car off at work for me, and i pay him and leave it at that. well at lunch i can't get the ****** started, (i later find out it floods incredibly easy). well i figure ill just change out the spark plugs, the ngk's in there were probably 3+ years old, terribly fouled and when i pulled off the plug wire boot every single center electrode pulled right out of the plug, leaving just the ceramic and the thread part of the plug in the block...haha, i couldn't believe it. well the only plug we carry to fit that car was an autolite. So i switch out the plugs, autocrappers go in, Guess what, still no luck starting it up, i tried for at least and hour to get it going, and no luck. So recalling some people complaining of autolites, i grabbed some 2nd gen ngks, bur9eq, and bur7eq's. They aren't made for my spark system, but i figure what the hell. Well you'll never guess what happened, it started right up, i was really angry at autolite after that! The next day i dropped by another parts store and got my trusty br8eq-14's

well i've had those autoshitter plugs in my rear storage bins ever since, as a "just in case" situation, well after reading this, i just threw them away, they will never see a rotary engine again!!

good luck with the compensation, screw those autolite bastards!!!

 

I saw two 1st gens with autocrappers in them recently. It sickened me on each occasion. Yep, Schuck's has stopped selling BR8EQ-14s in my area too. They can be special ordered though. Why would they, as a company, do that?

 

no more br8eq14's !!!!

 

Try Napa.

 

yeah
too bad i dont need any (no engine)