1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Desperate for help!! (cone oil cooler)

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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 11:39 AM
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Angry Desperate for help!! (cone oil cooler)

Ok, I'm on the last part of removing the cone oil cooler to get at my o rings but I can't get the "oil line banjo fitting bolt", how the haynes manual calls it. Any tips? Or wrench sizes for that matter? And no, I don't have a lift.
I can't seem to get it off for the life of me...
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 12:01 PM
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If no one chimes in then do a search, im sure this subject has been covered many times.
I have not dealt with the beehive cooler in a long time. I thought the bolt took a 19mm socket but don't quote me on that.
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 12:14 PM
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I believe it is a 21mm,or 23mm. I used a wrench to get to that bolt when I threw the beehive across the shop. Took some time to get it positioned correctly though.
If you do not have a 21mm/23mm wrench, the box end of a 15/16 will almost fit tight, and can be used if care is taken to not round off the bolt head. I highly reccomend the metric wrench though.
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 12:57 PM
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is the only way to take it off by brute strength? I'm down to my wits end and am thinking of tying a rope to the wrench, then to the honda...
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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The banjo bolt should be tight, but once it has broke loose, it should then be able to turn by hand. If you can get a small hammer into a position to lightly hit the wrench while holding tension against it, it should come loose.
Remember to replace the copper washers on both sides of the fitting, before reinstalling the bolt.
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 03:51 PM
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cut the hard line, and replace the whole thing with a front mount FC cooler
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 03:52 PM
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i royally screwed that bolt trying to get it off, so in the end i didn't even bother, since i was replacing the whole thing anyways
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
I believe it is a 21mm,or 23mm. I used a wrench to get to that bolt when I threw the beehive across the shop. Took some time to get it positioned correctly though.
If you do not have a 21mm/23mm wrench, the box end of a 15/16 will almost fit tight, and can be used if care is taken to not round off the bolt head. I highly reccomend the metric wrench though.

23 mm, thank you sir.......5-16 good advice too
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 11:10 PM
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Best advice is to remove that oil 'heater' completely and go with a front mount cooler off of an FC. Those beehives just don't cool the oil as well as the front mount air cooled ones.
Case closed.
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 11:25 PM
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Just a thought, lets give the guy help with the problem at hand before he goes to tackle new tasks.
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Old Jul 30, 2006 | 11:33 PM
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Yeah I hear ya. But I think that giving the 'big picture' will allow him to decide whether to just replace the o-rings (which was my original plan since mine were leaking) or to go ahead with the swap which will provide even greater benefits. Both the swap and just replacing the o-rings requires the awkward removal of the beehive, which just happens to be the most difficult part of the swap.
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 12:42 AM
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No no, removing wasn't that incredibly difficult (you'll be amazed how much a hammer and a two by four can help)... it's the "putting back on" that makes me cry out in anguish. If anyone has successfully done this, then they will remember that one little nut on the right side Still trying to put it back in.

You're all right though about the front mount. I thought of that too but this year I just want to get her road worthy, next year is when the fun will really start!

Last edited by Andrew64; Aug 1, 2006 at 12:46 AM.
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