is there anything important I need to know before I put it on ?
-any difficultys, tips things I need to look out for ?

thannks

 

What Type?

I Installed a RB Streetport on mine. Only thing I would recoomend for this one, is that you bolt the header tot he mid pipe it was a PITA under the car.

Oh, Its a must to fire up the beast with no header!! Trust me its AWESOME! lol

I Got video of it some where....

 

id suggest look out for a smile. great sound if you ask me. then again im getting rid of mine soon anyway. but i think youll be pleased with it

 

ill take it

 

If you still have emissions crap on your car...
remove the airpump and ACV while you're there. If yours is like mine, the kit will come with a block-off plate for the ACV. I'd get some gasket paper to seal it and a 3L220 belt if you're going to take off the airpump.

Oh and have fun unbolting the 23 (or so) year old bolts. Liquid wrench and an angle grinder are your friends.

 

when the time comes its yours, for $ of course

 

in 2003 I had to replace a 23 year old exhaust on my truck and I found that a product called 'PB blaster' will losen any stuck bolt and I mean any, everybody should go buy this and try it.

the one I'm picking up will be a street port I think, getting it used but in good condition so that shouldn't matter.


Most defenetly going to start it with just straight pipes my neighbors already hate me cause of how loud the car is now so **** em let them just weight until I hit redline with straight pipes

 

WHat are these peices you speak of that I should remove, I still have to pass emissions next year but I plan on keeping the old exhaust and putting it on for tabs req's.

If I uninstall these peices will I need them later on for emissions?

 

try and replace all the old nuts and bolts with stainless-steel ones. Make your life easier when you take it on and off. And yes PB blaster was sent to us from the gods.

 

Theres an air pump and an ACV (air control valve) that are there only to push air into the catalytic converter. Since you won't have a cat anymore, you wont need them.

However since you're getting the system used you probably won't get the blockoff plates the come with it new. And since you're still under emissions controls, I'd just leave them there. That way when you reinstall your exhaust for testing you'll have less to do. (edit: yes you'll need them to pass emissions)

 

I hate where I live, its the only county in the state that needs cars to be tested.

On the bright side if my 85 makes it to be 25 years old I will be emissions exempt....not sure if thats a good or bad thing

 

Another question for people that have purchased an ebay specials cat's replacement, are they of quality or are they a waste of time/money?

Can't see my self buying two $250 cats for one day of testing every two years

 

Buy a Bonez high flow cat from rx7.com, install it in the system, and use the stock emmissions equipment. This should allow you to pass a sniffer test. If you also have to pass a visual test, that will not allow for the header, then you will have to swap back to stock system.
The High flow cat will not affect the performance, and Bonez cats are made to withstand the strains associated with a Rotary. The downside, is the cost. A blank Bonez cat is around $200.

 

I will take a look at those bonz cat replacments, are they emissions certifed?

Where I live, you don't have to do pass a visuall test unless you fail the test the first time and are trying to get a waiver. then they take a look under the hood

As far as the emissions equipment on the actual exhaust what do I need to look for? O2 sensor? other peices ?

Also why would having a header fail the visual test, and isn;t there a heat sheild blocking the header from site ?

Thanks I have a ton of questions on this matter -aaron

 

Did RB ever change the design of there mufflers.

 

The RB exhaust swap makes a huge difference in power, and fairly easy to swap back. Just keep new exhaust gaskets to use every two years or so. I must add that it's a pita to remove the original exhaust component fasteners the first time, but after that time, new stainless steel fasteners make swapping alot easier.
I have a complete stock exhaust with a single Bonez cat that I swap out with my RB long primary exhaust system in order to pass a visual inspection. I have the entire emissions system in place, and operational, year-round; keeping the airpump in operation (blowing to nowhere as the air tube is disconnected for the RB exhaust system), all stock vacuum solenoids; all same as stock (except for heat shields being permanently removed).
Quite honestly, I can't convince myself that stripping all the emissions "rats-nest" is worth the effort. I don't race and I like the idea of keeping my old car "almost" stock; easy to convert back with minimal effort. Bottom line is that you don't have to mess with the air pump, rats-nest, etc. Just remove the air tube connection, bolt up the RB system and feel some extra HP.

 

okay so I just finished swaping the exhaust on, my first thoughts were that it was a little 'pingy' sounding, kinda like a bunch of BB's in a tin car bouncing around. Might take some time to get used to or I might get the presilencer that rb sells cause the main page says that it will reduce that sound. Driving the car I can feel a world of difference -no complaints there.

I have a couple random 'loose ends if you could call them that.

1) there are two hoses that are not connected to anything any more, with the stock exhaust I know that they went to both the cat's, what can I do with these to cap them off cause right now it seems like its messing my idle up a little and when I pluged the bigger one with my finger it seemed to fix it.

2)Random sensor or somthihng, it looks like a steelbraided cable, it was plugged into another cat I think.... idk what it really is but would like to know what I should do with it?

thanks

 

WhaT could I cap the two hoeses with ? ^^read above post if this is confuesing

 

bump...guess I still wanna know about the two hoses

 

With the hoses, you can screw a large bolt into the end and then tighten with a hose clamp. The leftover wire is probably the sensor for exhaust system overheating, which you no longer need.