DublyDurty

1983 RX-7 GS.

Last week or so the car died while driving and we replaced alternator and all was good. Fast forward a few days...car started fine but idled like crap. Let engine warm up and turned it off (to vacuum the car out). Car would NOT start again.

Removed all 4 (NGK, only 1 year old) spark plugs. They are black and soaked with gas.

Now the questions (after reading all the "deflooding" threads).

1. Should I put 2 capfulls of engine oil into each spark plug hole OR into my beautiful Sterling carb (I've seen both ways recommended)...or does it not matter where the oil gets added?

2. Should I do this, add the oil that is, (with the 4 plugs removed and the fuel pump disconnected) BEFORE I crank the engine for a few seconds, or AFTER I crank the engine for a few seconds, add oil and then crank again?

3. After this deflooding procedure, when I install new plugs and reconnect the fuel pump, do I need to add any more capfulls of oil or should I just try to start it?

4. And lastly, should I expect this procedure to ruin my new plugs so do I need to buy 8 new plugs?

Thanks,

DD

DavidMyers53

I was having carb problems and mine got flooded several times. I just removed all 4 plugs, disconnected the coil wires at the coil, flipped the fuel pump disconnect I installed for this purpose and spun the engine until it quit blowing gas out the plug holes, put fresh plugs in (I carry 2 sets for spares), pour a little oil down the carb to lube the rotors, connect everything back up and she starts!

- David

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, a little oil down the carb always works. Don't bother with ATF.

DublyDurty

Thanks David (and Jeff20B),

She's running again! And since I'm such a "fanatic" about completely understanding a procedure before I attempt it, I'll answer my own questions for anyone else that may have the same affliction.

***[First I disconnected the battery, until I needed to crank the engine again.]***

***[I labeled each and every wire upon disconnecting (with masking tape and a pen) to be certain they get put back in the right place.]

1. Should I put 2 capfuls of engine oil into each spark plug hole OR into my beautiful Sterling carb (I've seen both ways recommended)...or does it not matter where the oil gets added?

-- I added 1 capful of regular 10W30 engine oil down each of the smaller 2 barrels in the carb, but not until the end of Step #3.

2. Should I do this, add the oil that is, (with the 4 plugs removed and the fuel pump disconnected) BEFORE I crank the engine for a few seconds, or AFTER I crank the engine for a few seconds, add oil and then crank again?

-- I removed the four plugs, disconnected my fuel pump at the plug connection under the drivers side storage bin, and disconnected the coil wires at the coils. I did not add oil yet.

3. After this deflooding procedure, when I install new plugs and reconnect the fuel pump, do I need to add any more capfulls of oil or should I just try to start it?

-- I reconnected only the battery and (with a fire extinguisher handy just for my peace of mind) cranked the engine for about 8 seconds. That's how long it took for the "cloud of gas" that was blowing out of the spark plug holes to disappear.

-- I disconnected the battery once again. Safety first!

-- I installed 4 brand new spark plugs, reconnected the fuel pump, reconnected the coil wires, and connected the battery.

-- I removed the air cleaner top and added 1 capful of regular 10W30 engine oil down each of the smaller 2 barrels in the carb, then put the air cleaner top back on.

-- I cranked the engine, she started right up, and I kept the rpms at around 2000 or so as I watched large clouds of smoke blow out my exhaust. After she warmed up and the smoke stopped, she idled fine and I shut her down.

4. And lastly, should I expect this procedure to ruin my new plugs so do I need to buy 8 new plugs?

-- I disconnected the battery again, removed the 4 new spark plugs (that I cleaned and will reuse if/when I need to do this procedure again - they really didn't look "fouled" but I chose to install 4 more new plugs anyway (but first applied "anti-seize" to the spark plug threads). (I originally bought 8 plugs just because I didn't know what to expect.)


This is simply how "I" did it. Searching will provide different shortcuts and options, and variations, which is what prompted the very specific questions in my original post. This is just how I felt comfortable and confident that it would work.

PS. I think it took longer to write this up than it did to perform the work.

Thanks,

DD

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

One thing I reccomend is that the ignitors are unplugged on the dizzy. Even when you unplug your spark wires from the coils, the coils themselves can still fire. Usually the spark wont arc to the body, but I have seen it happen before. Think about the cloud of gas vapours that comes out of your engine, and just how close the coils really are. Im sure it would be fine 98% of the time, but I know I would sure be disappointed if the coils sparked and set my engine ablaze.

I always tend to look at the worst possible scenario, and for ways to prevent it. Sorta like those spot the hazard commercials haha. Anyways I believe in such a case you can never be too safe, and thats why I brought it up.

Glad to hear you got the car running again tho!

DublyDurty

Good point. And that never came up in any of my searches. Hopefully the tornado-like radiator fan helps to prevent combustion by blowing all the gases away.

DD

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

DD, your proceedure is extremely on the safety side, congrats. It may be a bit over the top, but my 1st deflooding proceedure resulted in a fire on a 2nd gen. Didn't know any better at the time, ended up replacing the entire engine harness and repairing a few other wires and the brake master reseviour. Didn't know I could still move that fast when it went pooh and flames started coming out of the engine bay. lol

You don't really need to disconnect the battery and I find it easier to pull the engine fuse under the dash than removing the bin to unplug the fuel pump. As for cleaning the plugs, I beadblast mine, then hit them with brake cleaner and blow dry, brake clean and compressed air will usually clean fresh plugs, the bead blast is good the carbon build up.

Your molding pics should be coming later today.

DublyDurty

LOL! Yeah, that's what I'm trying to prevent! I don't want to burn off what little hair I have left!


Thanks. So...it seems feasible so far? I also have an idea for the side markers. The original markers stick out too far after you remove the original molding so I'm testing a "flush mount" side marker that looks like it should work out well. I don't want to just fill in the holes. I like the "safety" aspect of side lamps.



"A trochoid is a curve described by a fixed point as a circle rolls along a straight line."

But I bet you knew that,

DD

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Nice graphic, and like most eveyone else, I keep rolling on with ups and downs. That is the simple version of an entire family of mathmatic equations. The inner shape of a housing, the path of a rotor and the type of oil pump we have are also trochoids.

And I still have all my hair.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about the low quality picture, but this is what I did a while back on my old 7.
I just took the lenses and everthing off, and attached it all back on on the inside of the body panels. I was planning to either tack in some studs, or get some nice capped screws to make it look half decent before my car got hit (didnt like the heads sticking out) but now that one is long gone. I really liked it and thought it looked prety good, when I build another silver RX, I plan to tack in some studs and do it the same way but make it look even sweeter.