HRnico

iTrader: (7)

Anyone know how to defeat this feature on my 85 SE. Poor bearing taking a beating every morning.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Push in the clutch and let it back out. The RPM should lower to a less stupid speed for cold running. Not an actual defeat but a band-aid that will save your bearings.

HRnico

iTrader: (7)

does E brake make a diff. on or off, Thanks

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I have no idea, but probably not. Doesn't sound like something that would be connected to the ECU.

LongDuck

Nope - emergency brake has nothing to do with the -SE cold start mechanism.

The trick would be to NOT push the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor before you start it, as that would leave the cold-start cam in the last position it was in when you shut the car off - and hence, would not kick up the idle via the thermowax pellet to wait for coolant temp to come up and melt the wax, thus allowing the cam to let loose of the Throttle Body rod.

If you're in the habit of pushing once on the gas pedal all the way to the floor, then fully releasing and then cranking it to start - that will engage the cold start cam.

Try that and see if it helps. Otherwise, the only other way would be to remove the cold start mechanism entirely which is located on the firewall side of the throttle body (*look for the green plastic 'bottle' with a coolant hose snaking in under the upper intake manifold from the water pump and a return on the top of the engine block.)

Good luck,

HRnico

iTrader: (7)

Thanks
Been using this method for some time now and it works most of the time. Keeps the cold start RPM down about 2500

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'm glad my brother's GSL-SE and its weirdnesses went on to help somebody.

Seniorchief

HRnico,

Do you have the gearshift in neutral when you start you car? I will check my cars handbook when I get it out of storage but I believe it tells you to start the car with the gearshift in 1st, and clutch disengaged, which is the way I always start my RX7. If I start my GSL-SE with the gearshift in neutral it will idle between 2.5-3k rpm. However, when I put it in 1st gear with the clutch disengaged it will start normally and idle around 800-850 rpm. Hope this is of some help.

LongDuck

That seems anecdotal, as there are no interconnects between the gear selection and the cold start warmup system on the -SE's. It's a simple system which uses a fast idle cam which is set when you push the accelerator to the floor. When you let off the pedal before start, the throttle body rod sits on the fast idle cam, which holds the idle at approximately 3k RPM until hot coolant cycles through the Thermowax Pellet. When the pellet melts, it allows the internal spring to expand, allowing the fast idle cam to release from the throttle body rod, and returning the car to normal idle operation.

When you turn the car off, the Thermowax Pellet hardens again in the present position, which holds it's internal spring ready for the next cold start cycle.

Very mechanical, very simple design which doesn't require a lot of ECU controls, such as gear selection or temp gauge checks. HTH,

HRnico

iTrader: (7)

Car in neutral, (on my level garage floor, no accessories on) turn key on, push clutch pedal in and release, engage starter. most time goes to 2500.

With every fuel injected car I've ever driven, I don't touch the throttle, no need to. With this GSL-SE, after the car is running for a moment, I give it a few seconds to build oil pressure. Then I tap the gas and it will go to 3000. It will warm up on its own.
Before I started this routine, it would instantly rev 3300 to 3800. Sometimes even higher.
The car runs great pulls strong, has good compression ,always idles 775 to 800

LongDuck

You may know this already, but the -SE FMOC (Front Mount Oil Cooler) has a built-in temperature sensitive valve that prevents oil from flowing through the cooler until the engine oil is up to temperature. This was designed to help the engine warm up more quickly, but also for the engine to build internal oil pressure to the rotors as quickly as possible through bypassing the volume of the FMOC.

I mention it just for general knowledge, as having the cold start system bump the throttle up to 2500-3k RPM right off was designed in by Mazda to ensure the engine was spinning fast enough to cycle oil where it needed to go from the first start. In other words, trying to 'baby' those first few seconds may not be netting you much, as cold oil is high viscosity and harder to push until it warms up.

Seniorchief

May just be a "quirk" with my RX-7 LongDuck. However, it will start and run at 2.5k every time I leave the gearshift in neutral and start it rather than in first gear. The fact that the "fast-cam" is positioned when the throttle is fully depressed does not apply in my case because I "never" depress the gas pedal when starting my car. I only need to turn the key to start my 7. Depressing the gas pedal prior to starting is a sure way to flood this particular GSL-SE