Was gonna take pictures and everything, do a how-to thread for the ol' archives...

At this point, I want to throw them through the motherfucking wall.

 

glad to hear it's going that well
after so many shitty experiences with brakes I leave it to the shops
they seem so simple....deceptive

 

I trade them in for rebuilt ones, but for the tightass crowd, a How To would be beneficial.

 

where do you get the rebuild kits and for how much?

 

Ya, wasn't worth it to me to rebuild. The rebuild kits are half the price of rebuilt calipers.

 

LOL it's not so much about being a tight *** as that I'm done letting the car intimidate me. If I can do it myself, I'm gonna.

Finally got the damn thing apart, had to run my air compressor into it, and drop it on the floor simultaneously.

 

Wow, you must have some cheap *** stores. Here, it was $30 for all 4 rebuild kits, and rebuilt calipers would be pushing $200.

 

That, or expensive rebuild kits. Maybe they gave him a price for rebuild kits with a new piston? I know the rebuild kits are about $25-30 for all 4 just down the street, and after core charge, all 4 calipers were something like $150.

I have yet to purchase either of them, since the rotors I ordered last month still haven't arrived.

 

Where did you get your rotors from? I ordered mine from rockauto, and they were here in no time... Cheap as ****, too.

 

Bought them on Ebay from cquencemotors on the 28th. They said it may take up to a week to ship them, but they haven't gave me a tracking number or anything yet, so I am assuming they're not on their way yet.

I wrote them a nice nastygram letting them know that if I don't get something soon, I'll be filing a dispute with paypal.

 

dude, rebuilding calipers is a cake walk if you know the easy way to do it. All you have to do is put a brake pad or a piece of wood in the caliper oposite of the piston, then blow compressed air into the fluid hole and pop it out. Then after it is out put the new piston seal, and dust boot in and set the piston on the dust boot. Apply the compressed air again to puff the dust boot out and with some fedangleing get the dust boot around the piston and it all should slide back together.

Hope that helps

 

I picked up the front 2 calipers off ebay for $20 shipped. Rebuild kits here were $11 each. Calipers from NAPA were 50 each.

 

Well, it took 150 PSI to get the piston out of the front caliper... Don't know what I'm going to do about the back.

 

back caliper needs to be spun out of the bore.

 

Tried that... It's pretty damn stuck.

 

Having just rebuild all my calipers, I feel as if I can chime in here...

The front pots can be a bitch to get out, I used a bike pump with some attachements and they came out with 45PSI. Putting the pot back in was fun especially if you don't use enough seal grease. So use a lot of that orange stuff.

The rears should spin right out. If you're a cheap ***, you can use needly nose pliers, alterantively you can get a caliper tool from Advance, AutoZone or Harbor Freight.

If the rear pots don't spin out even with the rear caliper tool, then the calipers are probably toast. You can try removing the dust boot first, as this may be the source of the hangup.

The last time I checked, the rear calipers were more expensive than the fronts.

Have fun with your brake job, I sure did.

 

sounds like the pistons are rust frozen due to moisture getting in the brake fluid. lots of ppl don't know that the brake system needs flushing ever so often. as with wheel cylinders, the inside gets rust pitted and the rubber seal gradually gets worn away with every movement of the piston to the point that the fluid starts getting past it causing leaky cylinders, or u put ur foot on the brake pedal and it slowly goes to the floor. try spraying some WD40 or some kind of rust penatrating spray into the brake line hole and let them sit awhile.

as for the previous poster, he's dealing with a car with brakes that haven't been used in quite awhile so it WILL take a little more effort to get things dissassembled. i just use brake fluid as lubricant. some types of grease might have an ill effect on the rubber seals.

 

Oops, I probably should have specified to use the grease that comes with the rebuild kit, not axle grease or whatever.

 

Has anybody found the rubber protectors for the caliper guides?
Thanks

 

if you **** yours up 100 i have some front calipers

 

Only pull one caliper at a time. let it hang and use the car pedal to push the pot out. gets it out easy and passes a lot of the old fluid out.

Rebuild it and reinstall, Blead and then do the other side.

 

Yeah gonna be doing this sometime this week. I can't say that I'm over joyed, but once its done it will friggin rock.......its gonna stop good too.

 

Don't forget to use a small hone on the inside of the piston bore. I used one of those 3 stone hones that I put into my drill. Its usually pretty caked up from the old sludge and rust in there. Otherwise the new seal will get eaten up pretty quickly and you'll be do this dance again.

 

I must be missing something here. The seal is mounted in the bore, not on the piston, so it doesn't move. So how will anything in the bore affect the seal? The piston should be cleaned up since it's surface slides on the seal, but I don't think the bore is that big of a deal. Sure, it should be cleaned as a matter of principle, but I don't think it will affect the seal at all.

Or am I missing something?

Rich

 

Rich, your right but if you leave the sludge in there it's likely to come loose and end up riding the piston side up into the seal and then causing problems. Good point, the piston should be cleanup as well and gone over with some polising cloth or fine steel wool to get any roughness off of them. When I do brakes I clean up all the surfaces because I've been bitten too many times by mr. murphy.