Pele

iTrader: (28)

If anyone's got some lying around, it'd be cool...

I can't see gutting my good ones.

I'll paypal ya postage. Just drop em in an envelope and go USPS... After all, they're dead, right?

2 would be cool.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I know how you feel. I was going to run out with this latest DLIDFIS project where I installed two GM HEI ignitors in a '7 REPU with a 7" Camden SC. Then last Saturday there was an ignitor in the door cubby (or whatever it's called) of an '83 we were working on. I took it home to bench test it and sure enough, it was dead. I gutted it yesterday for some testing of a couple Mopar ignition modules with a spare dizzy.

So anyway, I need to hang on to my gutted ignitor for now. Please don't gut any good ones. Good luck finding some dead ones.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Well, I have four good ones... I thought mine were dead so I went to the scrapper and got some ummm... "Miscelanious electrical sensors and relays... $5 total" rather than "ignition modules... $40 each"... or a "Distributor... $130" Yeah...

Turns out my magnetic pickup was dead... So now I have to go back and grab some more "Miscelanious electrical sensors and relays..." (Mag pickup this time.)

The hard part about finding dead ignitors is you gotta catch someone before they pitch em.

Elysian

what are you gutting them for? i don't get it lol

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

When an ignitor is dead, it can be made into a perfect little connector to carry the pickup signal out of the dizzy and over to some ignitors for a DLIDFIS conversion (just remember to test your existing wiring harnes to make sure it has seperate wires vs some that I've seen where both B terminals of both ignitors are Y'd together). All you do is poke a really sharp screwdriver tip or razorblade between the aluminum backing plate and the black plastic housing to start peeling the aluminum off from the white epoxy they used to seal the ignitor. There are four thin wires which connect the four pins of the ignitor to the circuit board that is bonded to the aluminum. They are easy to break since they are quite thin. The act of prying up the aluminum plate ends of bending it and sometimes breaks the bond so part of the circuit board may remain inside.

Inside, you'll notice a clear squishy substance. I guess it's some sort of silicone sealant that protects the surface-mount components from moisture as well as insulates them electrically. Either way, it reminds me of that children's Nickleodeon/Ghostbusters slime type stuff, only it's not water based. I have no idea if it's toxic. Just use a paper towel and start wiping it from the circuit board and inside the ignitor. Be sure to remove the the rest of the little wires that may still be sticking up, as well as any components that you think might interfere with soldering a couple jumpers to the pins inside the plastic part of the ignitor.

I like to use color-coded insulated 20AWG wires soldered to the pins. I'll try to take a pic or two of the one I gutted yesterday...

Hades12

Dude in the for sale section says he will take 5$ for good ones. That is just as cheep as bad ones.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I'd rather just file down a couple male quick-disconnects, like I did for my white REPU and plug them into the pickup connector, than gut a good ignitor.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Here is a pic of the inside of a dead ignitor after it's been gutted and jumpered. As you can see my soldering iron was hot enough to melt the insulation a little. I figured I'd use the hot one on this because the solder is on the back side of the tabs. It really didn't take long to melt the solder though. Infact, this was one of the easier ones I've done due mainly to how clean the inside of the ignitor was. I once gutted one that had water damage internally. It was pretty gross inside.

Enjoy!