Okay, so I dropped in an old 4-port BP 13B into the 7 and now the fuel pump doesn't run. The car runs fine on the float bowls, but the pump just doesn't want to play. Is there a pump enable switch somewhere among the masses of unused plugs that wrap around my engine or something else I'm missing? Also, the fuel system is now returnless, in case that makes a difference. I just have an open fuel-return hard line now on my firewall. Is that a problem? What gives?

 

I had this same problem. I have to make a custom T-line off of the feed line to make a return. Because the fuel pump has to pump fuel to cool it self, if it doesn't it won't pump anything, because of cavitation... it gets too hot. Hope this helps. And yea there is a connector where you can run a jumper wire to your fuel pump if needded, its under your drivers side dash. Just get a electrical manual and narrow them down. Or I could look at mine. BUt hope that helps.

 

Is a return necessary? The pump sits in the fuel tank anyway and stays plenty cool. Is there a connector on the 12A harness that grounds the fuel kill relay that's in the dash? If so, I'll just short it and not sweat the pump - it should be nice and happy in all that gas.

 

I don't know what kind of pump do you use, but the pump sits outside the tank infront of the rear axle in stock 1st gens.

 

Damn, nevermind then. I know the filter's there... so why don't I get pressure? Do I need a return feed?

 

By the way, red13b, when you make your Tee, do you have to put a restriction in it of some type? I would think that if you returned all your fuel that you wouldn't have anything to fill the bowls with. How do I get my car to run with my new setup?

 

well the proper way is to put it through a fuel pressure regulator and return it.

 

So, for a RB Holley 650 (temporary), what kind of pressure should I run? Is that the indicated pressure on a regulator, or does the regulator only indicate the pressure DROP? My biggest question, though, is why my fuel pump suddenly won't even fill the bowls. Any ideas?

 

I'm sure that the holley needs 6psi of pressure. If you have the stock pump it might only be putting out 3psi, if you have a fuel pressure gauge see what it's running. If you're going to get a bigger carb yo ushould upgrade your fuel pump anyway, a nice easy carter and a regulator to put it at 6psi instead of 7 would work greatly.

 

I know I need a larger pump and a regulator. I didn't know I'd need to utilize the return line (the car I got the 4-port out of didn't have a return), but my biggest concern is why the fuel pump doesn't see 12V. Can someone just break down for a good way to go with putting a Holley 650 on a previously 12A-powered car?

 

Has anyone else ever had problems going from a stock 12A to a simple 13B setup and had the fuel pump quit on them? Are there any reasonably quiet fuel pumps out there?