Just removed the dash on the Sa the other day. So if anyone is going to do this in the future or want's info on it I will answer questions. I know we have a archived detailed thread on the 84-85 dashes but I have not seen the earlier ones covered or I just didn't look hard enough.

 

how hard was it/what needed to be removed?

 

Not hard at all.
Basic handtools.

 

I done it on my SA when i was parting it out. Hardest thing is finding all the nuts that hold the dash pad on. There are like 6 or 8 8mm nuts.

 

Hey Doc,

That's good to know. I'm supposed to be buying a new dash (and several other pieces) from rookie117, (though I haven't heard from him in a while). When he gets that stuff out, I reserve the option of asking you a few questions (since you offered) .

It's for an '83.

Thanks,

DD

 

^ no problem.

 

Dash cap or new dash? Which is better as in price wise vs looks?

 

A mint condition dash is very hard to find at times.
The dash caps look ok but are not something I would put on my car......

 

I was wondering that. My dash is cracked/rusted looking, and I wanted to get a new dash. I heard there was a place out in cali where they take your dash and redo it completely. stunning work, but its around 600$ to do.

 

Doc, you might as well do a write up, with pics of course.

 

Oh great! Another book to write.

 

Oh ****. another thread. He must be bored again.
Must be hard living in the brokeback mountain side of Cali.

 

I have this SA removal tut, if it saves you the ag of writers cramp
Tried loading Manntis's 84+ Removal link but my browser couldn't access it...
anyway...

Stu Aull
80 GS
Alaska

RX7 79-80 Dash board removal:

Note: page numbers refer to OEM parts book
Some specialty tools that you might need BEFORE you start:
-22 mm socket for steering wheel nut (try your lug wrench!)
-Micro phillips screwdriver for instrument **** removal
-Micro flat screwdriver for instrument **** removal
-very long (6” SHAFT length MINimum!) phillips screwdriver for instrument cluster
-Zip Lock bags and labels are Your Friends!
1) remove seats for ease of access to under-dash

2) remove steering wheel:
Remove 22mm nut. To remove wheel, firmly grasp wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock, rock back and forth by alternately pushing and pulling your arms.

3) remove covers around steering column. Note that HEADLIGHT switch “tip” just pulls off of stalk. Also, plastic “instruction” cover on left, displaying signal light switch positions, needs to be popped out to allow signal arm thru the cover’s hole.

4) remove surround-trim around instrument cluster face: parts page 220
-2 phillips screws under top. Might need a stubby screwdriver to get at.
-bottom of surround is held in by two clips that fit horizontally into instrument panel. Just pull surround out straight back to make these release. You will feel resistance to do this!

5) remove cables and wiring harnesses from cluster
-reach up under dash to RIGHT side of rear of cluster, feel the speedo cable mounting point. The cable attaches by a TAB on the cable end that snaps into the collar on the back of the cluster. You must feel for the tab and squeeze it into the cable and pull to release the cable from the back.
-still at the back there are TWO round harness connectors going into the cluster. Pull these off. NOTE: if difficult, these two connectors CAN be removed as the cluster is being pulled out of the dash...

6) remove instruments: parts page 220
TOOL: need a LONG!! (6”+ shaft) phillips screwdriver to remove 2 phillips screws at the back of the cluster.
- Laying on your back under the instruments, you will see the 2 screws wa-a-a-y up under the dash, one on each side of the steering column. These are facing down at you. It might help to remove the air ducting that drops under the steering col. first. This has one screw holding it into place. There may be one screw attaching it to the column?
- on the front of the instruments, 2 screws hold the cluster up under the top lip. The cluster should now remove towards you and out.

7) remove dash trim panels: Parts Page 216
These are various lower pieces on each sided of steering column. NOTE you will need TINY FLAT (?) screwdriver (eg. for eyeglass type) to remove the CHOKE **** so the cable can be released thru the trim panel. The rear hatch release requires the chrome surround collar to be screwed off.

8) remove the Center Panel Assy:
-remove heater control slider *****: NOTE some models these are press-fitted, on others there is a tiny Phillips screw retaining them under each.
-remove fan switch cover. It is 2 piece on later models... just pulls off
-remove the decorative plate UNDER the lip of the pad, above the top of the center console panel (this is marked on Pg 216 as “55217”). This MUST come off before center panel will remove! 2 screws
-remove Shifter surround: 2 screws at the front (nearest center panel) and 2 snap-ins at rear. Obviously, shift **** must be removed...
-press OUT 3 rocker switches on center console. Disconnect harness of each and remove.
-remove radio ***** and nuts behind them. radio will stay with dash as panel is removed.
-unscrew 2 screws on BOTTOM of center panel. panel should now be free. NOTE that cig lighter is still attached and may be removed once panel is free, from the back
-NOTE the Heater Control Illumination bulb on the upper left might still be attached as panel is removed. Bulb assy twists out and stays with dash harness.

9) remove Center Console Assy: Parts Pge 235
-remove decorative covers (2) on upper sides of console, reveals screws.
-pair of screws also at rear (towards BACK of car, but nearer you) sides of console
-NOTE console’s upper LEFT side extends across under-dash. There is a screw here too.
-There is also likely a screw on the upper RIGHT side which may be hidden by glove box door. NOTE this screw may not be accessible until glove box proper is removed!!

10) remove radio: 2 screws on either side. Harness AND antenna leads in back.

11) remove heater/ventilation controls matrix. Page 265
-this is mounted to the dash FRAME. 2 screws, on on each side at front.
-each of the 3 cables are detached at OTHER ends, ie at heater box or blower motor. Single screw holds each in place.
-as you pull matrix out, disconnect fan switch harness

12) remove glove box: Page 227
-door removed first. Note funky “lever” assy on left that keeps the door from dropping down too much when opened. Unscrew from door assy. Don’t remember all details here but be on the watch for a couple of “gotcha” attachments at rear of actual box...

13) remove air venting pipes. Pg 239
-NOTE some of these are bolted on and cannot be easily (removed) until dash pad comes off. Shouldn’t be a problem. Just get the ones attached to the heater assy and over to the blower. Pull off (meaning pull the VENT end off) the side vent pipes, (these pipes are screwed together so will not pull out of car completely without first detaching screws) the far left and right ones leading to the backs of the side air vents.

14) Time to remove the pad!! Pg 227
-NOTE the easiest way is to remove the whole pad/frame assy! So-
-remove nuts holding center console of frame to tranny hump -2
-remove 4 (2 per side) nuts holding frame on each side by A pillars
-remove the top “garnish” panel (number 60702 on the illustration) held on by 3 screws hidden under decorative caps. This is the panel running the width of the dash at the base of the windshield. This will reveal a series of 10mm nuts running along the base of the windshield...
-remove these upper retaining nuts (4-6?)
YOU CAN NOW (??) remove the entire frame/pad assy. (With the caveat that I might have forgotten a nut or 2?!)
-now you can manouver the frame as you need to access the 4-6 10mm nuts on the rear (at the firewall side) UNDERside of the pad/frame, removing any vent pipes as needed.

 

Good write up. Some small corrections. The steering wheel nut is 21mm or you can use a 13/16 socket which is used for spark plugs. Recommend before you start to disconnect the battery. I found to remove the trim that goes the width of the car I had to remove one side of the A-Pillar trim because the A-pillar trim goes over the top.
Added tools. 1). 8mm socket 2). 10mm socket
Biggest thing is to remember to take your time. You are removing and working with alot of plastic parts. I used the hatch area to put all my parts layed out and left the appropriate screws with each part.
Again, 7aull thanks for the write up.

 

Thanks for the corrections Doc-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska