Does anyone know how to and how hard it is to remove dash on a 80'? I plan on doing it and rerouting wires and hooking up new stuff.

 

There is a how to write up around here somehere.

Plan on 1 to 2 hours to get it pulled.

 

That dosn't sound like a bad time to get it out in. Speak Up - Who's got the write up!

 

don't have the write up, but it's pretty easy stuff. No worries.

 

here's a tip: when you think you have it disconnected and loose, there's still about 10 more wires and 8 more screws to take out before you can budge it.

 

This thread came up at a pretty good time, if I have it my way im going to be taking out 2 dashes and changing the cars they are in a week or so...

 

See the thread in the 1st gen archive section. I just removed a dash. Took me a couple of hours. Removing it is the easy part, I'm just glad I'm not putting it back.

 

i found it a pain in the assspecially the hard to reach nuts by the a/c pipeing
but other wise really esay to install i repainted myn
tell me what ya think

 

Here's my post from last year on this:
(Page references are to the Factory Parts Book diagrams...)
This is to remove the ENTIRE dash and subframe. The dash pad is all but impossible to remove by itself without some degree of dissassembly of the frame from the car...
Take LOTS of pictures so you can re-assemble

RX7 79-80 Dash board removal:

note some specialty tools that you might need BEFORE you start:
-22 mm socket for steering wheel nut (heard a rumor the lug wrench fits?)
-Micro phillips screwdriver for **** removal
-Micro flat screwdriver for **** removal
-very long (6” SHAFT length MINimum!) phillips screwdriver for instruments

1) remove seats for ease of access to under-dash

2) remove steering wheel:
Remove 22mm nut. To remove, firmly grasp wheel at 3 and 9 o’clock, rock back and forth by alternately pushing and pulling your arms.

3) remove covers around steering column. Note that HEADLIGHT switch “tip” just pulls off of stalk. Also, plastic “instruction” cover on left, displaying signal light switch positions, needs to be popped out to allow signal arm thru the cover’s hole.

4) remove surround-trim around instrument cluster face: parts page 220
-2 phillips screws under top. Might need a stubby screwdriver to get at.
-bottom of surround is held in by two clips that fit horizontally into instrument panel. Just pull surround out straight back to make these release. You will feel resistance to do this!

5) remove cables and wiring harnesses from cluster
-reach up under dash to RIGHT side of rear of cluster, feel the speedo cable mounting point. The cable attaches by a TAB on the cable end that snaps into the collar on the back of the cluster. You must feel for the tab and squeeze it into the cable and pull to release the cable from the back.
-still at the back there are TWO round harness connectors going into the cluster. Pull these off. NOTE: if difficult, these two connectors CAN be removed as the cluster is being pulled out of the dash...

6) remove instruments: parts page 220
TOOL: need a LONG!! (6”+ shaft) phillips screwdriver to remove 2 phillips screws at the back of the cluster.
- Laying on your back under the instruments, you will see the 2 screws wa-a-a-y up under the dash, one on each side of the steering column. These are facing down at you. It might help to remove the air ducting that drops under the steering col. first. This has one screw holding it into place. There may be one screw attaching it to the column?
- on the front of the instruments, 2 screws hold the cluster up under the top lip. The cluster should now remove towards you and out.

7) remove dash trim panels: Parts Page 216
These are various lower pieces on each sided of steering column. NOTE you will need TINY FLAT (?) screwdriver (eg. for eyeglass type) to remove the CHOKE **** so the cable can be released thru the trim panel. The rear hatch release requires the chrome surround collar to be screwed off.

8) remove the Center Panel Assy:
-remove heater control slider *****: NOTE some models these are press-fitted, on others there is a tiny Phillips screw retaining them under each.
-remove fan switch cover. It is 2 piece on later models... just pulls off
-remove the decorative plate UNDER the lip of the pad, above the top of the center console panel (this is marked on Pg 216 as “55217”). This MUST come off before center panel will remove! 2 screws
-remove Shifter surround: 2 screws at the front (nearest center panel) and 2 snap-ins at rear. Obviously, shift **** must be removed...
-press OUT 3 rocker switches on center console. Disconnect harness of each and remove.
-remove radio ***** and nuts behind them. radio will stay with dash as panel is removed.
-unscrew 2 screws on BOTTOM of center panel. panel should now be free. NOTE that cig lighter is still attached and may be removed once panel is free, from the back
-NOTE the Heater Control Illumination bulb on the upper left might still be attached as panel is removed. Bulb assy twists out and stays with dash harness.

9) remove Center Console Assy: Parts Pge 235
-remove decorative covers (2) on upper sides of console, reveals screws.
-pair of screws also at rear (towards BACK of car, but nearer you) sides of console
-NOTE console’s upper LEFT side extends across under-dash. There is a screw here too.
-There is also likely a screw on the upper RIGHT side which may be hidden by glove box door. NOTE this screw may not be accessible until glove box proper is removed!!

10) remove radio: 2 screws on either side. Harness AND antenna leads in back.

11) remove heater/ventilation controls matrix. Page 265
-this is mounted to the dash FRAME. 2 screws, on on each side at front.
-each of the 3 cables are detached at OTHER ends, ie at heater box or blower motor. Single screw holds each in place.
-as you pull matrix out, disconnect fan switch harness

12) remove glove box: Page 227
-door removed first. Note funky “lever” assy on left that keeps the door from dropping down too much when opened. Unscrew from door assy. Don’t remember all details here but be on the watch for a couple of “gotcha” attachments at rear of actual box...

13) remove air venting pipes. Pg 239
-NOTE some of these are bolted on and cannot be easily (removed) until dash pad comes off. Shouldn’t be a problem. Just get the ones attached to the heater assy and over to the blower. Pull off (meaning pull the VENT end off) the side vent pipes, (these pipes are screwed together so will not pull out of car completely without first detaching screws) the far left and right ones leading to the backs of the side air vents.

14) Time to remove the pad!! Pg 227
-NOTE the easiest way is to remove the whole pad/frame assy! So-
-remove nuts holding center console of frame to tranny hump -2
-remove 4 (2 per side) nuts holding frame on each side by A pillars
-remove the top “garnish” panel (number 60702 on the illustration) held on by 3 screws hidden under decorative caps. This is the panel running the width of the dash at the base of the windshield. This will reveal a series of 10mm nuts running along the base of the windshield...
-remove these upper retaining nuts (4-6?)
YOU CAN NOW (??) remove the entire frame/pad assy. (With the caveat that I might have forgotten a nut or 2?!)
-now you can manouver the frame as you need to access the 4-6 10mm nuts ataching the pad, on the rear (at the firewall side) UNDERside of the pad/frame, removing any vent pipes as needed.

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

 

dare i ask if there is an easy way to remove the heater core w/o removing the entire dashboard?

 

cut a hole in the firewall and pull it through there.

 

so its easier to remove the engine and make an escape hatch than remove the dash board?

you know you're a first gen owner when!

 

That's a good one.

 

do you have to remove the dash to pull the carpet?

please say no..

 

Yes and no. For the <84 dashes you can get away with cutting the carpet behind the centre console and pulling the carpet that way. Just reattach it back together with velcro, it's hidden so you really can't tell the difference.

 

thanks. my carpet needs a good cleaning. probably gonna get my friends pressure washer and do it that way.

 

I have an 83' rx7 does this apply to me as well?
or do I do something else?
Ive been stuck for about 4 days(2days i had class) now and I went out tonight and had no idea where to go
Ive taken out my entire passenger side screws(i think because I can move it around slightly off the main frame for the dashboard)
Im stuck in the drivers side
unfortunately i haven't been documenting this so I cant show my progress from start till now but i can however show my work as of now?

 

Dash PAD is identical, and, in fact, interchangeable with 79-80 RX7, tho some of the details on the metal frame underneath will differ in minor details, esp around center floor console connection - should be pretty useful guide, tho I defer to any FB owner who might say otherwise...
Don't be afraid to digicam pix of the whole process!!!!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska