DAMN windows!!!
#1
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DAMN windows!!!
okay my power windows are now both stuck up and the sunroof is broken too. its a freaking sauna in my car does any body else have this problem?? my windows will randomly work and not work just like everything else on this car thats electronic.. any ways how can i fix this problem?? i checked the fuses and there all okay and im pretty sure the motor works....
also what is involved in swithing to roll up style windows? do i need all new doors or just new pieces on the inside??
also what is involved in swithing to roll up style windows? do i need all new doors or just new pieces on the inside??
#3
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars...r_windows.html
Fix'em the way they should have been designed...
Toxic_d
Fix'em the way they should have been designed...
Toxic_d
#4
Right near Malloy
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Originally Posted by toxic_d
http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars...r_windows.html
Fix'em the way they should have been designed...
Toxic_d
Fix'em the way they should have been designed...
Toxic_d
#7
ROTISSERIE ENGINE POWER!
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Found this a while back. I haven't tried it yet so I'm not sure how well it works.
Here's what I did to two 7's I've had with the same problems.
First, take regulator(s) completely out. In the center of the regulator there is a pivot point, a rivet, I think. Wiggle everything around. If its fairly tight with little play (mine had some) you can go from there. If there is LOTS of play, might as well forget it and find some better regulators. I advise you to go to the "parts for sale" section and email WAM.
He's got what you need, very reasonable prices, too.
Now, if the play is minimal, spray everything clean with carb cleaner or degreaser. Re-lube regulator with grease (I used some pretty thick stuff, so I 'thinned' it with a dose of WD-40 afterward). Work it manually (or plug the motor back in and use the window switches) several times to get the lube in the right places.
Go back to the door itself, and spray some white lithium grease (get it at any auto parts store) in the channels on both sides. I followed that up with a light coat of WD-40.
While you've got everything out, go ahead and drill a slot (for adjustment) in the front bottom channel screw hole. From inside the car, it'll be the 10mm bolt on your lower left, holding the bottom part of the front channel.
You'll need to drill it out so you can move the bottom channel in a back/forward motion. Then, put the bolt in, but leave it a little loose. Makes getting the window in easier later. Grab that channel and ensure you can move the bottom part a little back and forth.
Reassemble everything. With the window down, push the bottom front channel (adjustment you just created) so that it sits securely around the glass. As you roll the window up and down, adjust as needed to keep it secure but not bind. Also, roll the window down and shut the door firmly. If the glass jumps aff the track, you need to move the bolt adjustment closer to the glass. Repeat until the glass stays in place. Everything should now move smoother/faster. If it moves ok but seems to be misaligned just when the window reaches the top, roll the window down and grab the top back corner of the door and give it a couple of quick, strong yanks inward.
Try it again, it should be better. You may have to yank a couple more times for it to go perfectly.
Somehow through the years, these door frames get bent slightly outward, messing up the window as it comes to the top.
BTW, all this I learned on the forum doing searches. Took days of searching, but it's all there. Just not all in one place like I'm trying to do.
This method has worked (assuming good regulators) for me 100% of the time, my power windows work like new.
Good Luck!
Here's what I did to two 7's I've had with the same problems.
First, take regulator(s) completely out. In the center of the regulator there is a pivot point, a rivet, I think. Wiggle everything around. If its fairly tight with little play (mine had some) you can go from there. If there is LOTS of play, might as well forget it and find some better regulators. I advise you to go to the "parts for sale" section and email WAM.
He's got what you need, very reasonable prices, too.
Now, if the play is minimal, spray everything clean with carb cleaner or degreaser. Re-lube regulator with grease (I used some pretty thick stuff, so I 'thinned' it with a dose of WD-40 afterward). Work it manually (or plug the motor back in and use the window switches) several times to get the lube in the right places.
Go back to the door itself, and spray some white lithium grease (get it at any auto parts store) in the channels on both sides. I followed that up with a light coat of WD-40.
While you've got everything out, go ahead and drill a slot (for adjustment) in the front bottom channel screw hole. From inside the car, it'll be the 10mm bolt on your lower left, holding the bottom part of the front channel.
You'll need to drill it out so you can move the bottom channel in a back/forward motion. Then, put the bolt in, but leave it a little loose. Makes getting the window in easier later. Grab that channel and ensure you can move the bottom part a little back and forth.
Reassemble everything. With the window down, push the bottom front channel (adjustment you just created) so that it sits securely around the glass. As you roll the window up and down, adjust as needed to keep it secure but not bind. Also, roll the window down and shut the door firmly. If the glass jumps aff the track, you need to move the bolt adjustment closer to the glass. Repeat until the glass stays in place. Everything should now move smoother/faster. If it moves ok but seems to be misaligned just when the window reaches the top, roll the window down and grab the top back corner of the door and give it a couple of quick, strong yanks inward.
Try it again, it should be better. You may have to yank a couple more times for it to go perfectly.
Somehow through the years, these door frames get bent slightly outward, messing up the window as it comes to the top.
BTW, all this I learned on the forum doing searches. Took days of searching, but it's all there. Just not all in one place like I'm trying to do.
This method has worked (assuming good regulators) for me 100% of the time, my power windows work like new.
Good Luck!
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#8
DisaffectedCollegeStudent
I had a similar problem with my switches (emergency flashers, windows, and defroster) they would work intermidently or not at all, so i tried some of the contact cleaner that you use for the radio, and surpirsingly it worked, so all the switches work perfectly. Now i don't know if i caused any harm, but it's better than it was before.
-Matt
-Matt
#9
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Originally Posted by fishbulb95
I had a similar problem with my switches (emergency flashers, windows, and defroster) they would work intermidently or not at all, so i tried some of the contact cleaner that you use for the radio, and surpirsingly it worked, so all the switches work perfectly. Now i don't know if i caused any harm, but it's better than it was before.
-Matt
-Matt
i would guess matt that you're correct, assuming that's what contact cleaner is for
i['ve noticed that after taking the little motors out of the window and cleaning all the contact points and the bushings they seem to go up a lot faster, probably like they did when they were new. i'd suggest doing that, it made me a hheck of a lot happier with my windows when i did that
cheers,
Matt
#10
DisaffectedCollegeStudent
Glad i could be of assistance, you can pick that stuff up at Radio Shack, its used to clean the ***** on an old tv, and other electronic devices with *****, switches, etc...
it's called "Contact/Control Cleaner and Lubricant"
-Matt
it's called "Contact/Control Cleaner and Lubricant"
-Matt
Last edited by fishbulb95; 09-01-05 at 01:47 AM.
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