Do the timing at max advance at 4K. I don't remember the number off the top of my
head right now.

 

Check the two advance diaphragms on the new dizzy - possible source for your new vacuum leak. Apply moderate vacuum and they should hold it, not bleed down.

 

Problem solved. I did what I thought might work. Adjusted the idle to 1500 so someone wouldn't feather it. Then turned the distributor between the marks. Found out I went the wrong way. Then moved it the other direction about the same distance. Tightened it down.
While it was running I tried to remove the vacuum line, no can do, it was good.

Readjusted the idle to 750. Tested timing again and it was perfectly centered on the cut out.

My guess is that I had the timing so retarded that it snuffed out the engine at lower RPMs.

And it starts great when its hot, of course its no longer 100º.

I really have no idea how the car ran before, maybe some sort of dieseling. There wasn't a leading pickup to speak of and the trailing was 1/2 inch from the rotator.

 

That's good. I have a GSL-SE parts car.

Can i delete the ignitor box and swap over the GSL-SE ignition stuff and still get it to run until I get the direct ignition set up?

 

Alright, I'm still searching around, but is the how much different is the 84-85 12a ignition is compared to the 84-85 13b's ignition?

 

Congrats!

Rotaries will 'run' across an amazingly wide range of timings... but they only run well within a much narrower band.

Much of it is due to the long, thin combustion chamber, which provides something like 40 or 50 degrees of rotor rotation in which an ignition event will produce some sort of forward momentum. Translated into shaft rotation at 3:1 and taking into account two rotors, that's something like two overlapping 140-degree sectors of shaft rotation within which making the gas go 'boom' will move things forward.

Just not real well.