1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Cranks but won't start.

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Old 12-31-23, 05:18 PM
  #26  
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The OEM negative battery cable has a yellow stripe on it for identification. The end opposite of the clamp is grounded to the transmission at bell housing's upper left mounting bolt. About midway along the cable is another grounding point just before a routing clamp. I put an arrow on it in your supplied picture, plus on a photo of a set of cables I currently have out of a car.

Remove the anchor bolt and clean up the cable where the bolt goes through. If your car ran before using the appropriate alternator and / or external voltage regulator (for a stock points setup) I would imagine substituting either for another like component will work again, even though someone modified it with an electronic ignition. Many replacement parts are built for multiple vehicles. The replacement voltage regulator you are looking at may have wires that don't apply for an Rx-7 but may be for use on several different vehicles. If I remember right, the Ford Courrier used the same external voltage regulator.



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Frogman (12-31-23)
Old 12-31-23, 09:05 PM
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Just form reference, what you are showing are factory original hot and ground wires. Those have not been replaced with after-market ones.

Originally Posted by Frogman
The only bolt I see on the strut tower is where is where the fusible links are . I will take a picture .



Believe it or not the spark plug cables are under a year old.
Old 12-31-23, 09:17 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
Just form reference, what you are showing are factory original hot and ground wires. Those have not been replaced with after-market ones.
Is the distributor not an electronic one ? I has the ignitors on it and the three mechanics who have worked on my var say I have electronic ignition , I even replaced the parts inside with the 1980 distributor rotor with zero issue .
Old 12-31-23, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Frogman
Is the distributor not an electronic one ? I has the ignitors on it and the three mechanics who have worked on my var say I have electronic ignition , I even replaced the parts inside with the 1980 distributor rotor with zero issue .
I'm talking about the battery cables.

Your dizzy and it's wiring have been updated. The wiring going to your ignitors is not shielded to eliminate noise. Not sure if it's required or not.
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Frogman (01-01-24)
Old 01-02-24, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Frogman
I even replaced the parts inside with the 1980 distributor rotor with zero issue .
Maybe the distributor internals are the same between the 80 and later cars, not sure. But I know that the 1980 ignition was a one year only configuration. Your ignitors are mounted to the side of the Dizzy, which didn't happen until 81. In 80, both ignitors were attached to a separate box that contained a circuit board, mounted to the inner fender just ahead of the fusible link block.


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Frogman (01-02-24)
Old 01-02-24, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Maybe the distributor internals are the same between the 80 and later cars, not sure. But I know that the 1980 ignition was a one year only configuration. Your ignitors are mounted to the side of the Dizzy, which didn't happen until 81. In 80, both ignitors were attached to a separate box that contained a circuit board, mounted to the inner fender just ahead of the fusible link block.

I cleaned the bolt and added the wire , no change .
Next step is replacing the voltage regulator. I have a feeling the alternator is the culprit since it gets really hot . I called a few people I know in the local rotary community and they told me a place called " Salgado " will rebuild my alternator . They quoted me 75$ . It rained heavily a week ago and I have a bad feeling the alternator or voltage regulator got wet.

It's a damn shame since the new plugs made the car feel ace !
Old 01-02-24, 05:58 PM
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Flooded the guy who told you is right. Take plugs out let them dry , I put a little flame to them and clean with wire brush. Without pressing gas pedal turn just few times engine;wait a few replace plugs and fire her up.
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Old 01-02-24, 06:15 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by piraterx7
Flooded the guy who told you is right. Take plugs out let them dry , I put a little flame to them and clean with wire brush. Without pressing gas pedal turn just few times engine;wait a few replace plugs and fire her up.
I already got the car running . New issue is the tach stopped working a day later lol.
Old 01-02-24, 11:53 PM
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Local auto electrical rebuild shops that rebuilds starters and alternators are always my first choice. The last 10 years have not been kind to these types of business's and like these cars, many have disappeared.
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Frogman (01-03-24)
Old 01-03-24, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Banzai
Local auto electrical rebuild shops that rebuilds starters and alternators are always my first choice. The last 10 years have not been kind to these types of business's and like these cars, many have disappeared.
Radiator shops / and Reman shops have trickled out of existence .East Los angeles had dozens , often two or three on the same corner. Now the whole area has 1-2 if any. It's really sad.
Old 01-06-24, 02:22 PM
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It was the voltage regulator .

I was skeptical about grounding since I didn't disconnect any wires and all the points seemed intact . I removed the grounding cables after they didn't work just to test the new regulator.
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