jaidedeye

ok, if i remove only the crank pulley with the 4 bolts and not the center bolt do i need to have someone hold the clutch pedal down or is this method only used if i remove the e-shaft hub bolt?

djessence

if you are removing the large 19mm bolt (e-shaft bolt) you need to have someone or something (2x4) depress the clutch.

If you are ONLY removing the 4 10mm bolts that attach the pulley to the hub then it is not necessary

jaidedeye

thanks for the clarification...im just needing to remove the pulleys to powder coat them

feerocknok

Undo the four bolts and pull it off. Might be on there kinda tight, but it's just the four 10mm bolts.
Just took my e-shaft pulley and water pump pulley off yesterday and painted them today.

bliffle

You should index mark the pulley before removing it so you put it back on correctly, otherwise your TDC mark could be 90 or 180 degrees off and you'll have a struggle to get it right.

jaidedeye

isnt there a guide pin?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

no, there isn't. There is if you remove the whole assembly (the 19mm bolt), but if you just remove the 4-10mm bolts, there is nothing preventing you from putting it back on 1 of 4 different ways. I would turn the engine and line up the leading mark with the timing pin, then remove the pulley being careful not to rotate the engine. Since you are painting the pullies, you'll have to be careful not to paint over the timing marks. Perhaps you can scratch/notch the marks before painting so that you can remark the pulley, Once you are done painting, but the pully back one lining up the leading mark w/ the timing pin.

bliffle

Easiest is to set engine at TDC before removing pulley rim. It's kinda hard to index mark the hub.

The timing marks are notched (unless some lout has filled the notches with paint or something, so clean it up) and you can catch the notches with your fingernail after powder coating. Then dab a little paint at the notch, maybe even filing the powder coating a little bit there.

jaidedeye

good advice guys.

thank you

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

The inside of the pulley, where it slips onto the hub, will need to be clrearanced after powedercoating as well. It's a tight fit.

And to add something to what Kent said, only the early pullies had an aluminum rivit, which must be chisseld off to remove the pulley. Then you have a convenient nub to help you quickly realign the pulley. Again only the older pullies had this feature so don't hold your breath looking for on in your FB, unless somebody swapped in an older engine.

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

i was going to chime in but it seems like this has already been taken care of...

djessence

touche on indexing or even paint marking so you are close. on my rebuild i put mine back on 90* off. Took some reading through wackys thread on the flywheel thing to figure out wtf was wrong

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I got luckey because my new rebuilt engine had the aluminum rivit. I took a file and filed a small mark on the timing marks. I would highly recommend this method if your powder coating. They will need to sand blast the part and any paint will be gone.

feerocknok

Mine has two nice cuts for the timing on my '82, too deep for powdercoating to hide

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Whenever I paint or powder coat the main pulley, I cut the timeing notches deeper with a triangular file, prior to finish coat, then repaint the red and yellow notches. Fwiw, we don't have cranks, just cranky old guys, lol.