Wankeled

My clutch has finally completely blown out... and since I have to replace a stock part, I plan to do a half decent upgrade at least.

I'm stuck between Cpracing and racingbeat...

cpracing seems to be a little more affordable, but what do you guys think?

Any preferences, advice, or any opinions?

Please help.

Thanks in advance.

Rx7carl

I love my ACT clutch. Little stiffer, but very streetable.

Wankeled

whoops, I forgot to mention...

I plan to upgrade/replace the following (I might be redundant):

- clutch
- pressure plate
- synchro's
- release bearing
- and the flywheel as well

THANKS!

Wankeled

From http://www.shaneracing.com/actmazda.html ?

Which one do you have? The XT or the HD?

Just by reading what "they" give you to read, it sounds like cpracing would be a little better than the ACT don't you think? (and cpracing is just a touch cheaper too)

GavinJuice

synchros? you plan on rebuilding and overhauling the transmission?

81Rex6port13b

i say you go with CP because there in canada and your location says CALGARY, AB thats in canada right? might as well save some money on shipping from California where racingbeat is located.

Wankeled

A friend of mine who's going to help me replace my clutch mentioned that I should replace my synchro's as well (?).

Personally, I don't have any problems going into/coming out of gears (which is what synchro's does right?).

81Rex6port13b: That is one of the MAIN reasons why I'd go with CPRacing. Just waiting for them to reply to my email to see what they have for offer on used parts.

Thanks.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

If your tranny shifts fine don't bother with it. Just put some good oil in there and leave it alone.

LongDuck

Based on the parts you plan on replacing when you do your clutch, you might want to consider the following parts, as well, to ensure that you've got everything covered:

Transmission front cover and seal - these can get worn over time which will cause the clutch pedal to feel 'chunky'. Hard to describe, but by replacing the front cover (and seal), you're replacing the smooth surface that the Throw Out Bearing (TOB) slides on, which will end up in smooth clutch action.

Needle bearing and oil seal - on the output end of the engine mainshaft, there is an internal needle bearing that consides with the input shaft on the transmission. This bearing is what keeps things turning smoothly between the engine crankshaft and tranny, and if you hear a 'whirring' noise when you APPLY pressure to the clutch pedal (transmission disengaged), then the bearing is likely dragging and needs to be replaced. When this bearing goes out, you'll find it hard to get into 1st gear even with the clutch pedal to the floor, because the tranny is still spinning due to the seized bearing. This is hard to remove carefully, however, and there is a rubber seal that prevents oil getting past into the needle bearing.

You might also want to invest in some good synthetic gear lube, 90wt, just to finish the job right. I don't see the logic in draining your used fluid to do a clutch job, and then pouring the old fluid back in... HTH,