HenryV

Let me begin by saying I rarely post here, but I do use it as an information resource.

For about a year and a half, I've been using CP Racing's R&P kit (Version 1) in my '80 RX-7. The car is autocrossed frequently (at least once per month) and driven on the street (just to get to events). The following is my opinion on the conversion.

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Like everyone else looking for a solution to the sloppy steering box, I looked for an alternative steering system. Two years ago, I found CP Racing's R&P conversion, and thought all my problems were solved. From Day 1, the kit has caused problems. At first, fitment was an issue. For some reason the rack had to be JAMMED so close to the engine oil pan, it rack doubled as an engine brace. My engine does not move because the rack is holding it stiff. At the mounting points, only three of the four points match up. The fourth mounting point is no where near where it should be.

I figured those two problems would not be issues. I could use another engine brace and the two lower control arm points are the most important. But, one major problem remained.

The steering itself is my BIGGEST, MOST MAJOR concern. It is not linear; it binds on every turn left or right. If you want to know what I'm describing, then relate this to using a swivel rachet when screwing in something at an awkward angle. It will get tight, then loose, then tight, and loose again, and the process repeats. Honestly, instead of dealing with returns and shipping, I let it be. I lived with it, raced with it for a season and a half. As of now, things have become worse. The steering does not return to dead-center often. I cannot figure it out. All my suspenion components are in good condition and tightened properly. There are broken weld points. That can't be good.

I've been doing some post searching about CP Racing's lastest rack & pinion conversion. I want to believe it's good, but I'm having a hard time because of the version I have in my car now.

I'm deciding on whether I should give the new rack a shot (and risk fitment problems, funny steering issues, or whatever else comes up) or if I should convert back to the stock system (and deal with the freeplay and "Wondersteering").

I've contacted CP about my issue. I am awaiting a reply. I'd also like to hear from those who have installed and used the latest version of the steering conversion and hear their opinions.

steve84GS TII

Huh,Ive had mine installed for years now.I got one of the first kits made way back when and I agree about the binding issue.However,after relieving the Ujoint tension and putting over 15,000 miles on the kit,it has no more of the binding problems.Loosening both pinch bolts and rotating the wheel back and forth allows the Ujoints to pull themselves to the ideal position on the shafts to lessen the binding.Then you just tighten them back up.I agree the angle would be better handled by 3 sets of joints,but the binding went away completely after about 6 months of driving.
I also experienced a clearance issues,but it was minor and a little grinding to clear the SE oilpan solved it.
For the record,this is and always has been installed on a daily driven,300hp,turbo widebody 84 with 225-17 front tires.So it doesnt get pampered or trailered.

HenryV

I've tried loosening the pinch bolts and letting the steering "adjust itself," but it just is not as linear as it should be. I understand the rack is from a VW Rabbit. Where I work, we have a Rabbit sitting outside. Comparing the two, it's night and day.

purple82

I'd make alot of noise with CP if a weld broke. That should never happen.

I've got the gen 2 kit. I don't notice the increase-descrease-increase in effort that you describe, but since the UV joints are the same, my geometry may just be more friendly. Which brings up another build quality consistancy issue. In any case, I'm actually very happy with the rack and the steering feel.

Crazitaziboy

So... is it worth the money or not? The steering rack on the car i'm looking at buying is shot. What is the price of stock and aftermarket?

Henry.... this is Stray Cat from dallas imports

HenryV

I won't lie. The feedback is there and it's responsive as a rack & pinion should be. But it's non-linearity and the build inconsistency that really changes my opinion about the conversion. If it wasn't for those two downfalls, then the kit would be perfect.

I'm actually so disappointed about the system, I'm willing to return to the stock system. The feedback may be **** and the freeplay is looser than a $2 *****, but I'd take all that over a busted rack and binding steering. For the most part, if you don't mind rebuilding a steering box and adjusting it as needed, then stock is okay.

keltic

Just to chime in, I ran the gen one kit for quite some time, and had the same issues here. I eventually gave up, took the kit off, and bought an entirely new stock style steering system. I figure at least it can feel like a normal steering setup. The CP rack was "lumpy" and so very slow in the steering department. I sadly now have the CP kit sitting in the floor... a beautiful $600 lump of poo. Seems like they could atleast try a different rack on the new kit as well...something a bit quicker. Either way I can't justify spending over $1200 on steering just to end up with a stock setup.....

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

FUBAR. Ouch.

jayroc

I still do not understand why they consistently run the VW rack. The only reason I can think of is that JOliver used it so long ago when he fabbed the original and that was only because he had one lying around.

I'm thinking of fabbing a new cradle to fit a FC rack in there.. Haven't been able to do much with it so far, tho.. I really don't think swapping the entire subframe is worth it or necessary, but that's my opinion..

grantmac

That is a front-steer rack, the subframe would be easier then trying to make it rear-steer. A Mustang rack is probably the best option I know that a few people with V8 conversions have used them. The 2nd Gen subframe does make for a very nice car, but the effort is in hindsight questionable.
Grant

HenryV

I received a reply E-mail from CP Racing earlier today. They are willing to work with me on this. I am being offered two options:

• Return the old rack for a new one a receive a discount for the new kit.
• Return the old rack to be repaired.

I want to believe the new rack is good. But because of this rack, I am really iffy.

Now, I have to think hard because I'm going to have to live with the decision for a while.

rotor vs. piston

mustang racks are also front steer. the most commonly used "hot rod" rear steer rack is an Omni rack, yes a dodge Omni. As I mentioned when JO was brainstorming all of this, the Omni and VW racks are the same IIRC. You can buy aftermarket Omni racks with quicker ratio's threw JEG's and places like that.

rotor vs. piston

what do they consider a "discount"?

purple82

Or until the next weld breaks.

Beware though, it's taken over two months and still waiting for me to get the corrected 2nd series rack frame from Chris. The original version blocked the oil drain plug. If you send them the old rack, the car might be down for a while.

peejay

Well, the Omni is the American version of a French car that was a copy of the Rabbit in the first place...

HenryV

Downtime isn't a huge issue. Although, waiting for a new rack that takes two months to receive is not cool. I can pick n' pull and install the stock steering system in a weekend. If this were the off-season (i.e. winter-time), then I would not fear a two month wait. But because racing season is in full swing, having equipment failure and then waiting for the replacement ruins quite a bit.

The discount is, IMO, fair. It's 50% towards the new rack.

Kentetsu

Well just to throw this out there....

I put up with the sloppy steering of the original system for a year, and was considering a CP "upgrade". But decided that before I did I would make an attempt to adjust the original system.

It worked, it was easy, and I am very happy with it since then. Loosen large nut, turn inner nut, tighten large nut..... Drive fast on curvey roads!!!

Just my 2cents...

purple82

It seems many people put in the rack and pinion kit to cure the loose steering box problem. That's not the reason to go to rack and pinioni. Mine wasn't loose at all, there was about 1" of free play, which is inside spec.

The real advantage to this kit is the improved steering feel, the nice communicative increase in effort as the steering loads up and the way it tells you exactly how close to the adhesion limit the front tires are. It's really quite remarkable how much better the car is with r&p steering.

Now that I've got it, I wouldn't go back, personally.

Kentetsu

Yeah, I understand that. Rack/pinion kicks butt compared to our setup. However, if I had 1,200 bucks to drop on my car right now, upgrading the steering would be way down at the bottom of my list. When the steering was sloppy, then it would have been a lot higher, maybe even at the top of the list...

Since I made the adjustment, there is barely any detectable freeplay in the wheel. When driving down the road, it feels like telepathy. I cannot describe the way it changed the entire attitude of the car. Like going from a old station wagon to a Porsche.

Man do I love my car!!!

wecycle

The fast ratio rack for a Shelby Omni GLH or Charger GLHS (Dodge L body) is the one you would want, due to the 14:1 ratio.

purple82

Still very happy with the direct feel and communication. It actually makes the car more fun to drive.

But holy crap, it's $850 now!

hammmy

Probably too many 50%-off returns of v1 racks.

-dave

d0 Luck

henry and steve, when you guys switched to CP's rack and pinion kit, did the car become noticeably much more stable in the freeway? since there's no steering play..?

i swear mazda's recir. ball steering makes freeway driving somewhat nerveracking

Kentetsu

Do you have an airdam d0 Luck? I've heard that it helps a lot with that...

d0 Luck

yeah i have an airdam. i can't really tell for sure if it helps out.. but in comparison to an SA that i've driven... the SA felt a bit more secure and stable....?? it seems weird too since the SA's have a higher coefficient for drag.