CP Flush Headlight install progress pix
I have an idea. Pull up to a wall at night. Maybe a garage door. Turn the lights on and take a pic of the light pattern. I think it'll work if you don't use any flash. That way we can see how good the lights are. I really like the flush mounts. More aerodynamic.
Sorry, I slip to German when I'm astounded by something.
I'm used to "sleek" light setups looking like ***, like the FC setups that look like poorly-proportioned 3rd-gen Camaros, or the FD setups that generally look all weird because the headlight panel that they replace are nowhere near rectangular. But this looks... *good*. Even better than what Andrew Havas has.
I'm used to "sleek" light setups looking like ***, like the FC setups that look like poorly-proportioned 3rd-gen Camaros, or the FD setups that generally look all weird because the headlight panel that they replace are nowhere near rectangular. But this looks... *good*. Even better than what Andrew Havas has.
Originally Posted by RotaryRyan
His seven looks very well??????
good... well... its lost in the translation.

yeah i ****** love those lights, i think they'll look badass on the project seven once its painted black with a prominent metallic red pearl in it. *drools at the thought of my future car*
Hey now, hush hush on the ULTRA TOP SECRET project there 
Just a note to those thinking of buying, these are not show quality pieces.
they require some work "tweaking" to get them flush all around and to
fit good. they are not just a bolt in part. they will require some tweaking.
that aside they do fit quite well once thier in and adjusted, and they will be a bitch to replace a bulb as you will have to remove the whole unit.
I like them, something different and it does clean up the engine bay alot.
thinking of moving my MSD over to the empty spot.....
things still waiting on.... light pattern, brightness, and durabilty of plastic cover.

Originally Posted by peejay
I still can't wait to see the stereo fangle.
they require some work "tweaking" to get them flush all around and to
fit good. they are not just a bolt in part. they will require some tweaking.
that aside they do fit quite well once thier in and adjusted, and they will be a bitch to replace a bulb as you will have to remove the whole unit.
I like them, something different and it does clean up the engine bay alot.
thinking of moving my MSD over to the empty spot.....
things still waiting on.... light pattern, brightness, and durabilty of plastic cover.
yeah, please post some pics of the light pattern against some flat (preferably light colored) surface at night.
i'm curious to see the cutoffs and pattern seeing as how they arent actually headlights.
maybe get a pic of the pattern on a dark strecth of flat, straight road too... so we can see the practical pattern as well.
if you could do that, i'm sure it would help a lot of people out in making up their mind, personally, i love the way they look, but i'm quite skeptical about the performance, and i wont switch unless its quite close to my Hella H4 housings w/ nice piaa bulbs, which works quite well.
i'm curious to see the cutoffs and pattern seeing as how they arent actually headlights.
maybe get a pic of the pattern on a dark strecth of flat, straight road too... so we can see the practical pattern as well.
if you could do that, i'm sure it would help a lot of people out in making up their mind, personally, i love the way they look, but i'm quite skeptical about the performance, and i wont switch unless its quite close to my Hella H4 housings w/ nice piaa bulbs, which works quite well.
Looks very nice. I too would like to see the light pattern, I'm leaning towards a purchase also. BTW, how long is the wait to get the kit?? It's funny how we get the best pics of the actual product here and not on CP's site! = ) I think the kit would look best on a 1gen with a body kit. Debadge the car and all the noobs would think it's an 05, lol.
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Joined: Feb 2003
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okay, love the looks.... could look better......
Dont you love cutting up your frame for lights......
I would weld plate in behind it all, also put on strut bars....
Also would look sick with a vented or scooped hood and an air damn...
Keep up the good work!
Laters Andrew
Dont you love cutting up your frame for lights......
I would weld plate in behind it all, also put on strut bars....
Also would look sick with a vented or scooped hood and an air damn...
Keep up the good work!
Laters Andrew
i like your car very clean in fact it is my desktop background. one of your previous pictures. i have a red 84 not as clean but your picture helps me remind myself to find a good auto panit shop. keep up the nice work
I'm a little leary of cutting out parts of the front crumple zone to replace headlights with spot-lamps. Less visibility and less crash protection is not a good combo.
(This from a guy who's survived two major RX-7 highway accidents)
(This from a guy who's survived two major RX-7 highway accidents)
I have to admit I'm torn... I've seen other flush-mounts, and the twin conversions that pop up half way, and they all looked like crap.
Yours, however, looks awesome. Maybe it's the black on red, or just the general excellent condition of the car, hell - maybe it's the mags? Whatever. Very impressed.
Yours, however, looks awesome. Maybe it's the black on red, or just the general excellent condition of the car, hell - maybe it's the mags? Whatever. Very impressed.
Originally Posted by peejay
If it's any consolation, the areas that get cut out are not structural.
What I mean by "structural" is effectively able to slow down a collision.
If you want to be that pedantic, the flush lights would be altering the crush resistance of the nose relative to having the buckets/pivot/motor assembly there, even without cutting metal. How much fuel you have in the tank alters things.
I would venture to say that a 3-point strut tower brace is more dangerous. In a frontal collision it will prevent the nose from collapsing as much, transferring more shock loading to the passengers. Also, depending on the accident, it could push the firewall rearwards, (or rather prevent the firewall from moving forwards with the rest of the car) cockeying the pedal assembly and causing foot/ankle injury. Same could happen in a front/side collision, and you *know* that the bracing *will* cause both sides to bend instead of just one, so that is more shock loading transferred to the passengers for certain.
If you want to be that pedantic, the flush lights would be altering the crush resistance of the nose relative to having the buckets/pivot/motor assembly there, even without cutting metal. How much fuel you have in the tank alters things.
I would venture to say that a 3-point strut tower brace is more dangerous. In a frontal collision it will prevent the nose from collapsing as much, transferring more shock loading to the passengers. Also, depending on the accident, it could push the firewall rearwards, (or rather prevent the firewall from moving forwards with the rest of the car) cockeying the pedal assembly and causing foot/ankle injury. Same could happen in a front/side collision, and you *know* that the bracing *will* cause both sides to bend instead of just one, so that is more shock loading transferred to the passengers for certain.
Originally Posted by peejay
What I mean by "structural" is effectively able to slow down a collision.
If you want to be that pedantic, the flush lights would be altering the crush resistance of the nose relative to having the buckets/pivot/motor assembly there, even without cutting metal. How much fuel you have in the tank alters things.
I would venture to say that a 3-point strut tower brace is more dangerous. In a frontal collision it will prevent the nose from collapsing as much, transferring more shock loading to the passengers. Also, depending on the accident, it could push the firewall rearwards, (or rather prevent the firewall from moving forwards with the rest of the car) cockeying the pedal assembly and causing foot/ankle injury. Same could happen in a front/side collision, and you *know* that the bracing *will* cause both sides to bend instead of just one, so that is more shock loading transferred to the passengers for certain.
If you want to be that pedantic, the flush lights would be altering the crush resistance of the nose relative to having the buckets/pivot/motor assembly there, even without cutting metal. How much fuel you have in the tank alters things.
I would venture to say that a 3-point strut tower brace is more dangerous. In a frontal collision it will prevent the nose from collapsing as much, transferring more shock loading to the passengers. Also, depending on the accident, it could push the firewall rearwards, (or rather prevent the firewall from moving forwards with the rest of the car) cockeying the pedal assembly and causing foot/ankle injury. Same could happen in a front/side collision, and you *know* that the bracing *will* cause both sides to bend instead of just one, so that is more shock loading transferred to the passengers for certain.

However the metal that ties the vertical sides of the engine bay to the lateral front wall/rad support *is* part of the front crumple geometry. No pedantry here, just unibody design. A seemingly small alteration can drastically alter how metal will bend, flex, crumple, or otherwise change shape. The buckets, OTOH, are merely bolted on and removing them just decreases front-end weight without altering the front crumple geometry. In fact, it brings the car closer to new safety standards as flip-up lamps are more dangerous in the event of a collision with a pedestrian.
How much mass there is to absorb the shock affects how the collision is managed. The energy to break the heavy headlight bucket out of the way comes out of the total collision energy "budget".
Did you know that Volvo significantly cut down on side-impact injuries... with a cardboard tube? They determined that a side impact lasts X milliseconds, the final .001 second of which was what broke people's bones. So the little piece of cardboard was put in there, to push the occupant away, just enough to prevent injury in that final .001 second.
I know that the point that I am making (that even the most insignificant things make a difference) seems contradictory to my stance. However, given that most of the people involved have done modifications that are also non-insignificant... Nobody seems to care about crash integrity when they relocate the battery, or change the exhaust system, or install a front mount intercooler, or a strut tower bar, or an aftermarket hood or even a hood scoop... so why start now? The cows are long gone, no sense in locking the barn at this point.
Did you know that Volvo significantly cut down on side-impact injuries... with a cardboard tube? They determined that a side impact lasts X milliseconds, the final .001 second of which was what broke people's bones. So the little piece of cardboard was put in there, to push the occupant away, just enough to prevent injury in that final .001 second.
I know that the point that I am making (that even the most insignificant things make a difference) seems contradictory to my stance. However, given that most of the people involved have done modifications that are also non-insignificant... Nobody seems to care about crash integrity when they relocate the battery, or change the exhaust system, or install a front mount intercooler, or a strut tower bar, or an aftermarket hood or even a hood scoop... so why start now? The cows are long gone, no sense in locking the barn at this point.
Heres just my $.02
Many of the newer cars actualy have sections of frame removed ahead and behind the passeger compartment to alow the energy to disipate more quickly through more of the car and the shock wave to trvel around the passenger compartment.
Thats like when you see a race car crash and pieces go flying every where each peice that comes off the car is taking impact energy with it. maybe it pertains maybe not, and I may not have used the correct terms for somethings but you get the idea. almost for got it also depends on how he mounted the cover and what its made of if he has it mounted to the body and its lexan it (should) help the rigidity lost by the removed metal?
Many of the newer cars actualy have sections of frame removed ahead and behind the passeger compartment to alow the energy to disipate more quickly through more of the car and the shock wave to trvel around the passenger compartment.
Thats like when you see a race car crash and pieces go flying every where each peice that comes off the car is taking impact energy with it. maybe it pertains maybe not, and I may not have used the correct terms for somethings but you get the idea. almost for got it also depends on how he mounted the cover and what its made of if he has it mounted to the body and its lexan it (should) help the rigidity lost by the removed metal?
Last edited by capri93; Jul 26, 2004 at 11:50 PM.





