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Couple more New Products! (OMP Block off and turbo Return style)

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Old 05-10-11, 11:52 AM
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Smile Couple more New Products! (OMP Block off and turbo Return style)

Hey Guys,

A couple more things for you guys here. The first one is a regular oil block off for all 79-85 RX-7 (except GSL-SE front covers). The second one has a hole in it because there will be fitting in there to have the Oil return from all you turbo guys to drain back into there.

Now the question is, what size fittings would you guys be interested in seeing? I'm assuming you guys would want a AN style and a NPT style. Let me know what you would like and we can finish those up.

They both will be powder coated semi gloss black and not sold bare as shown here.

The price on the regular block off will be 4.99$. The other one is still unknown at this point as it will vary with the fitting type used.

Cheers!
Attached Thumbnails Couple more New Products! (OMP Block off and turbo Return style)-imag0036.jpg   Couple more New Products! (OMP Block off and turbo Return style)-imag0037.jpg  
Old 05-10-11, 02:32 PM
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The First batch of the oil block off plates are all powder coated now and ready for shipping out!
Old 05-10-11, 03:12 PM
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Looking good Sam.
Old 05-10-11, 08:22 PM
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Are those cut with a waterjet?
Old 05-10-11, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by xShiFTx
Are those cut with a waterjet?
Laser Cut actually.
Old 05-10-11, 10:12 PM
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will definatly look nice when powdercoated!
Old 05-10-11, 10:54 PM
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Here a picture of is powder coated!

And here's the link for it off the website:

http://mrcmfg.com/catalog/product_in...22c060744deca5

Still no ideas on turbo oil return size?

Attached Thumbnails Couple more New Products! (OMP Block off and turbo Return style)-block-off-powder-coated.jpg  
Old 05-10-11, 11:13 PM
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Pretty sure the standard for a return is -10an. that's what I run anyway.
Old 05-10-11, 11:46 PM
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What size hole is that now? I was going to also say -8 or -10 (1/2" or 5/8" hole), they're pretty large typically. You could have steel bungs welded on easy enough, or do the plates out of aluminum and use the aluminum version since typically -AN fittings are aluminum.

Heres the Aeroquip steel version: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2875/
Summit Racing brand Aluminum version: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220062/

I have a Mazdatrix block off plate on my front cover now but it doesnt fit the shape right. I assume yours do since its not a symmetrical shape like the one they sell? Also, when I had mine off/apart, I dont remember taking note; can you actually get enough flow through there for a turbo drain with JUST the OMP removed, or do you still need to remove the front cover and pull the drive mechanism out from behind there to get a good return flow?

~T.J.
Old 05-11-11, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by RotorMotorDriver
What size hole is that now? I was going to also say -8 or -10 (1/2" or 5/8" hole), they're pretty large typically. You could have steel bungs welded on easy enough, or do the plates out of aluminum and use the aluminum version since typically -AN fittings are aluminum.

Heres the Aeroquip steel version: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2875/
Summit Racing brand Aluminum version: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220062/

I have a Mazdatrix block off plate on my front cover now but it doesnt fit the shape right. I assume yours do since its not a symmetrical shape like the one they sell? Also, when I had mine off/apart, I dont remember taking note; can you actually get enough flow through there for a turbo drain with JUST the OMP removed, or do you still need to remove the front cover and pull the drive mechanism out from behind there to get a good return flow?

~T.J.
The actual inside diameter of a -10AN fitting is .480" and a -8AN fitting is .370". When I designed them, I kind designed them with the -8AN in mind and made the holes at .4". It wouldn't be hard to drill them out to the .48" though so I'm not worried about that.

As for the fittings, I can easily machine all the AN fittings. A regular weld on type wouldn't work as it would be too large in diameter and interfere with the bolt head. I kept them out of steel for that specific reason also. You can achieve a much smaller weld size with steel than you can with aluminum, so that will give the bolt even more room. The reason that I placed the hole right there is because that's where the pin goes through for the OMP and it would be better flow for it like that. If it were me, I would remove the internals of the OMP, but the whole idea of this part is to make a bolt on area for your return and not having to drill and tap somewhere on your front cover.

Lastly, our version is the just a bit bigger than the stock gasket, but takes the exact same shape of it and it is a much better fit than the mazdatrix version available. Price difference between ours and theirs are pennies, but you get a nicer coating and better fit with ours.
Old 05-11-11, 01:05 AM
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I'm actually about to drill and tap on my S4 13b motor. This would be nice, but from what i've researched this still isn't a typical "bolt on" job. The OMP has to be taken off along with the gear inside for this to work. Which means front cover has to come off. From the research i've done i've noticed that if the return was where the OMP used to be it might be too high and not drain properly since its a gravity drain. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. This is what I keep seeing when coming up on searching though.
Old 05-11-11, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by twinkletoes
I'm actually about to drill and tap on my S4 13b motor. This would be nice, but from what i've researched this still isn't a typical "bolt on" job. The OMP has to be taken off along with the gear inside for this to work. Which means front cover has to come off. From the research i've done i've noticed that if the return was where the OMP used to be it might be too high and not drain properly since its a gravity drain. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. This is what I keep seeing when coming up on searching though.
It would still be a "bolt on" as in you don't have to drill and tap. If you drill and tap, you still have to take the cover off anyways as you need. I know of 3 guys that are running their return through the OMP location. As long as the turbo oil outlet is higher than that location, things should still be good as it still gravity pulls it down.

This might be different with a few aftermarket turbo's but all the guys that I know are running a s4/s5 block with the stock turbo and just using the front cover from a first gen and the drain is through there. It's a cheap easy way to get things going. I would personally rather have it straight down to the oil pan, but that is even more work usually.

Having said that, the oil pans in the works will have the option of a turbo oil drain AN fitting for it. But that would ALOT more expensive then this route. I would like to keep the price of these plates with fittings under 25$, thats the goal money wise.
Old 05-11-11, 03:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dj55b
It would still be a "bolt on" as in you don't have to drill and tap. If you drill and tap, you still have to take the cover off anyways as you need. I know of 3 guys that are running their return through the OMP location. As long as the turbo oil outlet is higher than that location, things should still be good as it still gravity pulls it down.

This might be different with a few aftermarket turbo's but all the guys that I know are running a s4/s5 block with the stock turbo and just using the front cover from a first gen and the drain is through there. It's a cheap easy way to get things going. I would personally rather have it straight down to the oil pan, but that is even more work usually.

Having said that, the oil pans in the works will have the option of a turbo oil drain AN fitting for it. But that would ALOT more expensive then this route. I would like to keep the price of these plates with fittings under 25$, thats the goal money wise.
Good to know . I'm taking off my oil pan and going to drill and tap the front cover while still in the car in the next week or so. If I could find out a way to get the OMP and gear out without taking the front cover off I would have you make a OMP block off for my year . I don't have any plans on taking the motor or front cover off though.
Old 05-11-11, 06:37 AM
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i would be interested in the turbo drain one. -10an is the size i was going to run. but i already mad an oil block off plate and was just going to tap the cover.. how much are yours? it would definatly look cleaner
Old 05-11-11, 12:26 PM
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why wont it fit the Gsl-Se? will you be making them for the Gsl-Se? and why is it so hard to find them for the Gsl-Se? i am almost done with my build and am still needing a few things this being one of them.
Old 05-11-11, 01:24 PM
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just make one ^ ? i was going to for my 12a until i saw these
Old 05-11-11, 01:51 PM
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Pineappleracing has block offs for S4 13b motors. Same as GSL-SE^^^
Old 05-11-11, 04:01 PM
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The GSL-SE is different than the 12a parts. The other reason I wasn't going to offer them is because they were also available through other companies. I can try to do a oil return for them like the 12a, but not sure if it will work as good. I'll have to look at it.
Old 05-11-11, 08:51 PM
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OK I was trying to find one but didn't find it on Atkins or mazdatrix. Thanks for the tip.
And keep up the good work on re-speedre-speed
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