could it be?
#1
could it be?
i'm having a serious problem with negative camber in the front. originally it was only apparent on the front left, so i adjusted the strut and this helped that side, but there is still positive camber VISUALLY apparent on both sides of the front.
my theory on this...could my weight reduction cause this? i know i've pulled nearly 100lb from the front of the vehicle. and the way the suspension travels, this is the only thing i could think of to cause the camber to be so out of spec.
what i want to know is...my theory correct? and if so, how can i adjust the camber? i have both struts at their furthest negative camber position. if i have to buy camber plates to mount at the top of the strut..i will.
thanks
my theory on this...could my weight reduction cause this? i know i've pulled nearly 100lb from the front of the vehicle. and the way the suspension travels, this is the only thing i could think of to cause the camber to be so out of spec.
what i want to know is...my theory correct? and if so, how can i adjust the camber? i have both struts at their furthest negative camber position. if i have to buy camber plates to mount at the top of the strut..i will.
thanks
#3
I Push My Car Real Fast!
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Riverside CA
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
would kinda make sence that you would thorugh the camber off by removing 100lbs in the front, but not realy to much to accualy be noticable.
to fix it you can get camber plates, maybe an alignment.
any one else have any idea?
to fix it you can get camber plates, maybe an alignment.
any one else have any idea?
#4
i don't think an alignment would fix the camber.
if you've ever seen the suspension of a car when the engine is lifted out of it..that's what i have going on.
another fix would be to actually cut the springs or get smaller ones. i have tons of room between the fender and the tire
TO CUT OR NOT TO CUT...
if you've ever seen the suspension of a car when the engine is lifted out of it..that's what i have going on.
another fix would be to actually cut the springs or get smaller ones. i have tons of room between the fender and the tire
TO CUT OR NOT TO CUT...
#6
Senior Member
Yes, your weight reduction has most likely caused the positive camber. What all did you take out to lose 100 lbs in the front?
Be sure the strut top is turned so the arrow on it is pointing towards the center and rear of the car.
Options on how to address include:
- Custom springs.
- Offset control arm bushings (there used to be a company that made these, but I haven't seen them for awhile)
- Racing Beat adjustable lower control arms
- Slot the strut tower holes so you can move in the upper mounting plate.
- Camber plates (although most only work with coil over kits)
Be sure the strut top is turned so the arrow on it is pointing towards the center and rear of the car.
Options on how to address include:
- Custom springs.
- Offset control arm bushings (there used to be a company that made these, but I haven't seen them for awhile)
- Racing Beat adjustable lower control arms
- Slot the strut tower holes so you can move in the upper mounting plate.
- Camber plates (although most only work with coil over kits)
Trending Topics
#8
i basically removed everything the car didn't need in order to run. if you've ever seen under-hood pics of my engine...as well as my enterior.
the drawback to cutting the springs:
the spring rate WILL change, causing it to be a bouncy ride with the stock shocks. this may cause unpredictable characteristics...
i'm NOT going to heat the springs, this can change the composition of the metal, and won't be great for handling.
i know i should just go out and buy some springs, but i just spent a bit of cash on my exhaust system..and i hate to change the car too much between autocrosses. don't want to ruin my feel of the car.
i'm hoping the advantages will outweight the disadvantages here, and i'll probably do the cut-job with a sawz all by half-coils this weekend.
the drawback to cutting the springs:
the spring rate WILL change, causing it to be a bouncy ride with the stock shocks. this may cause unpredictable characteristics...
i'm NOT going to heat the springs, this can change the composition of the metal, and won't be great for handling.
i know i should just go out and buy some springs, but i just spent a bit of cash on my exhaust system..and i hate to change the car too much between autocrosses. don't want to ruin my feel of the car.
i'm hoping the advantages will outweight the disadvantages here, and i'll probably do the cut-job with a sawz all by half-coils this weekend.
Last edited by K-Tune; 03-09-04 at 12:10 AM.
#9
Airflow is my life
Originally posted by 31rx7
Yes, your weight reduction has most likely caused the positive camber. What all did you take out to lose 100 lbs in the front?
Be sure the strut top is turned so the arrow on it is pointing towards the center and rear of the car.
Options on how to address include:
- Custom springs.
- Offset control arm bushings (there used to be a company that made these, but I haven't seen them for awhile)
- Racing Beat adjustable lower control arms
- Slot the strut tower holes so you can move in the upper mounting plate.
- Camber plates (although most only work with coil over kits)
Yes, your weight reduction has most likely caused the positive camber. What all did you take out to lose 100 lbs in the front?
Be sure the strut top is turned so the arrow on it is pointing towards the center and rear of the car.
Options on how to address include:
- Custom springs.
- Offset control arm bushings (there used to be a company that made these, but I haven't seen them for awhile)
- Racing Beat adjustable lower control arms
- Slot the strut tower holes so you can move in the upper mounting plate.
- Camber plates (although most only work with coil over kits)
Slotting the towers will be the quickest and cheapest method. Get some neg camber in there before the next AutoX! Hey you should come out to the SOLO Trials at GIR in April. A bit quicker than AutoX and a smooth road course to run on.
#11
Airflow is my life
Well this is a good chance for someone whos not up to snuff yet for SOLO I or Club racing. We've been holding one of these each year for the last 2 years. Its not quite as fast as a SOLO I, but much faster than a SOLO II. You get 3 1/2 laps. 1/2 warmup, then 3 timed laps run consecutively. You'll get a bunch of sessions over the course of a weekend. Much better bang for the buck seat time wise. You dont need a SOLO I license, just a novice permit, which is issued at the event. If you want more info just ask. Im considering bringing the battlewagon out for her last hurrah before canning her best parts for the new car.
Pic of the site.
Pic of the site.
#12
GSL-SE PRO
iTrader: (2)
First off...... the upper shock mount, when removed you'll notice it isn't square... if you drop the assembly and turn it, the position of the assemebly changes.
If you never had the assemblies out then it should be right.
But try taking it to an alignment shop, they will fix it up.... mine was like that b4. The alignment shop messed my car up but they fixed it the second time.
I also removed about the same amount of weight and it shouldn't do that. I have an rx7 without the motor and the wheels are still straight.
On mine it was those threaded rods that link the steering together. They are used throughout the system.
If you never had the assemblies out then it should be right.
But try taking it to an alignment shop, they will fix it up.... mine was like that b4. The alignment shop messed my car up but they fixed it the second time.
I also removed about the same amount of weight and it shouldn't do that. I have an rx7 without the motor and the wheels are still straight.
On mine it was those threaded rods that link the steering together. They are used throughout the system.
Last edited by JIMMY54; 03-09-04 at 04:11 PM.
#13
i tried this adjustment (rotating the square to change camber) but it was still quite apparent. now with the springs cut it sits much more naturally.
carl, i'd really love to do that. where did you say it's being held again? i've never had a chance to compete in SOLO I or drive on a real road course, and i'll drive pretty damn far to do it
carl, i'd really love to do that. where did you say it's being held again? i've never had a chance to compete in SOLO I or drive on a real road course, and i'll drive pretty damn far to do it
#14
Senior Member
Originally posted by FBDrifter
i know i should just go out and buy some springs, but i just spent a bit of cash on my exhaust system..and i hate to change the car too much between autocrosses. don't want to ruin my feel of the car.
i'm hoping the advantages will outweight the disadvantages here, and i'll probably do the cut-job with a sawz all by half-coils this weekend.
i know i should just go out and buy some springs, but i just spent a bit of cash on my exhaust system..and i hate to change the car too much between autocrosses. don't want to ruin my feel of the car.
i'm hoping the advantages will outweight the disadvantages here, and i'll probably do the cut-job with a sawz all by half-coils this weekend.
Carl is right; slotting the top of the strut tower is the quickest and easiest at this point.
Rich
#15
Rotary Enthusiast
100lbs off the front of the car should not change the camber adjustment that much. Just make sure the struts are in properly and if you want more camber either get a camber plate or listen to the boss and **** the towers.
#16
Airflow is my life
Originally posted by FBDrifter
i tried this adjustment (rotating the square to change camber) but it was still quite apparent. now with the springs cut it sits much more naturally.
carl, i'd really love to do that. where did you say it's being held again? i've never had a chance to compete in SOLO I or drive on a real road course, and i'll drive pretty damn far to do it
i tried this adjustment (rotating the square to change camber) but it was still quite apparent. now with the springs cut it sits much more naturally.
carl, i'd really love to do that. where did you say it's being held again? i've never had a chance to compete in SOLO I or drive on a real road course, and i'll drive pretty damn far to do it