i'm having a serious problem with negative camber in the front. originally it was only apparent on the front left, so i adjusted the strut and this helped that side, but there is still positive camber VISUALLY apparent on both sides of the front.

my theory on this...could my weight reduction cause this? i know i've pulled nearly 100lb from the front of the vehicle. and the way the suspension travels, this is the only thing i could think of to cause the camber to be so out of spec.

what i want to know is...my theory correct? and if so, how can i adjust the camber? i have both struts at their furthest negative camber position. if i have to buy camber plates to mount at the top of the strut..i will.


thanks

 

still no responses?

 

would kinda make sence that you would thorugh the camber off by removing 100lbs in the front, but not realy to much to accualy be noticable.

to fix it you can get camber plates, maybe an alignment.

any one else have any idea?

 

i don't think an alignment would fix the camber.

if you've ever seen the suspension of a car when the engine is lifted out of it..that's what i have going on.

another fix would be to actually cut the springs or get smaller ones. i have tons of room between the fender and the tire

TO CUT OR NOT TO CUT...

 

dont cut, I thought cutting springs messes them up?

 

Yes, your weight reduction has most likely caused the positive camber. What all did you take out to lose 100 lbs in the front?

Be sure the strut top is turned so the arrow on it is pointing towards the center and rear of the car.

Options on how to address include:

- Custom springs.
- Offset control arm bushings (there used to be a company that made these, but I haven't seen them for awhile)
- Racing Beat adjustable lower control arms
- Slot the strut tower holes so you can move in the upper mounting plate.
- Camber plates (although most only work with coil over kits)

 

dude, maybe it's time to upgrade the suspension, ride with it for a while, save up some dough, and get all the new stuff you need.

 

i basically removed everything the car didn't need in order to run. if you've ever seen under-hood pics of my engine...as well as my enterior.

the drawback to cutting the springs:
the spring rate WILL change, causing it to be a bouncy ride with the stock shocks. this may cause unpredictable characteristics...

i'm NOT going to heat the springs, this can change the composition of the metal, and won't be great for handling.

i know i should just go out and buy some springs, but i just spent a bit of cash on my exhaust system..and i hate to change the car too much between autocrosses. don't want to ruin my feel of the car.

i'm hoping the advantages will outweight the disadvantages here, and i'll probably do the cut-job with a sawz all by half-coils this weekend.

 

Slotting the towers will be the quickest and cheapest method. Get some neg camber in there before the next AutoX! Hey you should come out to the SOLO Trials at GIR in April. A bit quicker than AutoX and a smooth road course to run on.

 

i'd love to take it out to an actual road course

 

Well this is a good chance for someone whos not up to snuff yet for SOLO I or Club racing. We've been holding one of these each year for the last 2 years. Its not quite as fast as a SOLO I, but much faster than a SOLO II. You get 3 1/2 laps. 1/2 warmup, then 3 timed laps run consecutively. You'll get a bunch of sessions over the course of a weekend. Much better bang for the buck seat time wise. You dont need a SOLO I license, just a novice permit, which is issued at the event. If you want more info just ask. Im considering bringing the battlewagon out for her last hurrah before canning her best parts for the new car.

Pic of the site.

 

First off...... the upper shock mount, when removed you'll notice it isn't square... if you drop the assembly and turn it, the position of the assemebly changes.

If you never had the assemblies out then it should be right.

But try taking it to an alignment shop, they will fix it up.... mine was like that b4. The alignment shop messed my car up but they fixed it the second time.

I also removed about the same amount of weight and it shouldn't do that. I have an rx7 without the motor and the wheels are still straight.

On mine it was those threaded rods that link the steering together. They are used throughout the system.

 

i tried this adjustment (rotating the square to change camber) but it was still quite apparent. now with the springs cut it sits much more naturally.


carl, i'd really love to do that. where did you say it's being held again? i've never had a chance to compete in SOLO I or drive on a real road course, and i'll drive pretty damn far to do it

 

By taking 100lbs off the front and you've already changed the the car, and it will certainly feel different given the increase in positive camber and weight reduction.

Carl is right; slotting the top of the strut tower is the quickest and easiest at this point.

Rich

 

100lbs off the front of the car should not change the camber adjustment that much. Just make sure the struts are in properly and if you want more camber either get a camber plate or listen to the boss and **** the towers.

 

At Gainesville international raceway. The drag strip is evident in the background in that pic. If you come down, youll have a blast I promise you that! They hold a SOLO I at Roebling Road Raceway in Savannah Ga in Nov. too. The weather is always shitty, but the racing is fun! In 2002 we ran in a freakin monsoon! But GIR's weather has always been pretty decent in Apr. If your into Autox, this is the next level. And it kicks major ***!

 

woohoo, expect to see a loud flat black rx-7 tearing it up out there!