So finally took the time to corner weight my car.

Here's the results without the driver and full tank of gas:

LF-611 RF-514
LR-541 RR- 611

Cross weight- 1055
Front / Back weight split : F49.4% / R50.6%
Total weight 2277

With driver and full tank:

LF-680 RF-518
LR-611 RR-652

Cross weight- 1128
Front / Back weight split: R48.7% / R51.3%
Total weight 2461

The guys at the scale place all guessed around 2900lb that I'd come in at ... showed them how light we are . It does puzzle me however that the Driver front is heasier, I would of guess the other way around. Anyone know where that extra 100 pound on that side might be coming from and what to do to reduce it?

Same thing with in the rear, would of thought since the gas tank is offset to the driver side it would have more weight there but I seemed to be wrong on that one too. Any opinions on why that would be too would be good.

 

Still have AC system?

 

nope ... just looking at some pictures of my engine bay again, i guess all the brake, clutch, beehive, and coils would all add up. Still wonder where the rear weight is all at though.

 

Have you checked your ride height?

 

Im just going to guess that this is with full interior/options?

 

the only things that is missing on the interior are:

Rear bins
Rear Carpet
Door panels
Glove box
and center Armrest

So not that much stuff

 

Dont forget the steering box. that sucker is heavy

 

Actually pretty dang smart comment here ... if you are a little long in either left front or right rear, then those two will take more weight - think of a four legged chair that has one a bit long - the long one and the opposite one take the weight.

 

i'll double check the ride height

as far as the steering box, i don't have that anymore as I have a rack and pinion setup

 

Mmmm Rack and Pinion. What color is your interior? I might have some interior bits if you want them for shipping

Nice filter!

 

One thing to note is that the engine is offset slightly to the driver's side.

 

Don't forget the brake master cylinder / booster, clutch master cylinder, pedal assembly, steering column ...

 

Sam, start with the wheel arch height. You may need to shim a front strut to even the corners out. Check the BD catalog, p. 63, part #40.

 

I have all the piece sitting at home but never got a chance to finish things ... so nothing really ... as for the filter, it was a temperary thing till I got a Bosch one amd it only cost me a buck because the guy couldn't sell them lol

 

According to Jim Susko, the left front is the heaviest.

 

Correct the engine is slightly to the left to compensate for the exhaust, collum, breaks, clutch and driver on the right. So, us left hand drivers got stuck with a left heavy car. I know, I know, as lame as it is this time it really is RHD FTMFW...

 

Those numbers are not *too* bad. They could certainly be improved a bit. Coil overs will help. You would be able to adjust those corner weights within a few pounds of each other. You will be mostly concerned with getting the fronts close to equally left and right. The rears are not *as* important and will more than likely get closer with adjustments to the front.

Remember a few things:

Always corner weight with the driver weight.
Always corner weight with the amount of fuel that you plan to track with. If the car will run endurance events and use large amounts of fuel then use a half tank while corner weighting.
Remove one end link from each sway bar during the adjustments and then zero the pre-load of the bars when re-connecting the bars.
Changes to one corner will effect all other corners slightly. Example; Adding weight to the LF corner will take weight off the RR corner as well as the RF corner.
If using a stock endlink style rear bar re-connect the end link while still on the scales. While tightening the endlink watch for weight changes. As soon as you see changes you are adding pre-load the bar.

If you start to move weight around then use these rules:
weight that hangs past the axle centerlines is bad weight. If the component must be retained then moving it between centerlines is better.
Closer to the ground the better. Closer the the Center of gravity the better.


-billy

 

Is your car gutted?


Lets get some interior pictures!

 

if you read a few post above it'll tell you what all was missing from the car ... not much really.

Thanks Billy for the info. One reason for doing the corner weight right now too was because I'm considering buying the coil overs, but that will have to wait till next year probably.

 

I read through twice before and didnt find it. But i did this time.


Dude... My car must weight like 2000 lbs then. I dont have ANY interior whatsoever. I have the dash and my 2 seats. thats it. I also have my emmisions removed and an RB header so that is a huge weight loss. No P/S or AC either.

I am really curious now to what mine weighs.

 

For some reason I thought you were already on coilovers. So I was reading your weights thinking, why the heck didn't they fix it while they had it on the scales? lol.

Good weight overall though....

 

I'm not quite yet at your level

 

About to have better brakes then him though!

-billy

 

Who needs brakes? All they'll do is slow you down!!!

 

its more for the custom lightweight rims, and fatter tires that will be mounted on the car than the braking needed. And all that is going to do it make me go faster