Coolant temp sensor/gauge problems? Here's why mine didn't work.
08-26-06, 02:48 PM
#1
Onward thru the fog!
Thread Starter
Coolant temp sensor/gauge problems? Here's why mine didn't work.
1983 RX-7. Model? You tell me.
Here's the usual checklist:
1. Sensor is bad (common)
2. Sensor wire is bad (or the bullet connector is bad or dirty)
3. Gauge is bad
I replaced the sensor on the engine block under the oil cooler (naturally, mine isn't the one everyone else uses. Oh NOooo. Mine had to be the "rare" one that's only on factory rebuilt engines that has a different thread!)
As I said, I replaced the sensor BUT the gauge still didn't work. I read here that I should ground the wire (from the gauge) to the engine block (with the key in the "on" position" and the needle should peg to "H"ot. Mine didn't. That meant my wire or gauge was bad. Think again.
I removed the instrument cluster (see my other rant about why this was such a pita) and proceeded to remove these 4 screws and 2 bulb connectors.
Looking at the face of the gauges now, I noticed that all the other needles would move freely (with my thumb) and return to normal except for the coolant temp needle. It was tight against the face of the panel. I bent it up "slightly" but could feel something was still catching when I moved it.
There's a tiny pin (kinda blurry) that glides in a groove to move the needle.
Mine wasn't feeling "groovy" today. It was catching on a small, almost invisible burr in the slot or groove. I got a very small nail and reamed out the slot back and forth until the pin would move freely. This is a very delicate and very thin piece of tin so be very careful!
Once it moved freely with my thumb and returned to it's original place without "catching" I reinstalled the instrument cluster.
My coolant/water temp gauge now works!!!
Disclaimer: "Your results may vary". (I say this because nothing I've done so far seems to be in the "ususal" checklist of troubleshooting.)
Yes, I am a god. Today at least. Tomorrow I return to just being dad.
DD
Here's the usual checklist:
1. Sensor is bad (common)
2. Sensor wire is bad (or the bullet connector is bad or dirty)
3. Gauge is bad
I replaced the sensor on the engine block under the oil cooler (naturally, mine isn't the one everyone else uses. Oh NOooo. Mine had to be the "rare" one that's only on factory rebuilt engines that has a different thread!)
As I said, I replaced the sensor BUT the gauge still didn't work. I read here that I should ground the wire (from the gauge) to the engine block (with the key in the "on" position" and the needle should peg to "H"ot. Mine didn't. That meant my wire or gauge was bad. Think again.
I removed the instrument cluster (see my other rant about why this was such a pita) and proceeded to remove these 4 screws and 2 bulb connectors.
Looking at the face of the gauges now, I noticed that all the other needles would move freely (with my thumb) and return to normal except for the coolant temp needle. It was tight against the face of the panel. I bent it up "slightly" but could feel something was still catching when I moved it.
There's a tiny pin (kinda blurry) that glides in a groove to move the needle.
Mine wasn't feeling "groovy" today. It was catching on a small, almost invisible burr in the slot or groove. I got a very small nail and reamed out the slot back and forth until the pin would move freely. This is a very delicate and very thin piece of tin so be very careful!
Once it moved freely with my thumb and returned to it's original place without "catching" I reinstalled the instrument cluster.
My coolant/water temp gauge now works!!!
Disclaimer: "Your results may vary". (I say this because nothing I've done so far seems to be in the "ususal" checklist of troubleshooting.)
Yes, I am a god. Today at least. Tomorrow I return to just being dad.
DD
08-26-06, 03:55 PM
#3
Senior Member
should forget about using these stock gauges. they're over 20 years old now.
Time to get some aftermarket gauges....oil pressure, oil temp and water temp.
Time to get some aftermarket gauges....oil pressure, oil temp and water temp.
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08-26-06, 08:13 PM
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Possible For You to take a pic of the fuse box the way the fuses are s'posed to be put in? I think the previous owner put a couple in the wrong places, and the back of the fuse panle is worn so its hard to read. I would appreciate it Before I Go to work tomarrow. :-P I know i'm new to the forum so I have No rep but jus thought i'd ask.
P.S. Yes I Have an 1983 Mazda RX7 In-case Your Wondering.
P.S. Yes I Have an 1983 Mazda RX7 In-case Your Wondering.
Last edited by FFXLuc; 08-26-06 at 08:23 PM.
08-26-06, 09:20 PM
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lol Sorry didn't mean to be a pain. So is Engine, Cruise, And Fuel Pump At The Top Of The Fuse Box? (Top Being Towards The Steering Wheel. Bottom Of Fuse Box Being Towards The Clutch)
08-26-06, 09:59 PM
#15
Onward thru the fog!
Thread Starter
Yeah, yeah. Sorry. I confused myself. If you could take this picture of the fuse box, print it out, hold it over your head, lean back, sit in the drivers seat, and slide through the firewall with your feet so you were looking at the fuses, you'd have the right locations.
DD
DD
08-26-06, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Find the 10 amp fuel pump fuse. That will show you how the cover relates to the fuse box.
08-26-06, 10:02 PM
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Okie Dokie I Think I Understand Now. Your A Good Photographer I Appreciate You Taking The Extra Time To Help Me Out With This Small Problem. Have A Good Night And Good Luck With Your Gauges, I'm Upgrading My Gauge Cluster Within The next 2-3 Months.
08-26-06, 10:20 PM
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lol Yea, After All That Explaining And Stuff, I FOund Out That Only 4 Of The Fuses Were In THeir Right Spots, THe Other Ones Were Either 5 Volts too High Or 5 Too Low so now i have them all correct and hope something works better in the mourning
and you did good, jus your explinations Were jus more Lengthy Than I Needed, A Simple Yes Or No Would have sufficed :-)
and you did good, jus your explinations Were jus more Lengthy Than I Needed, A Simple Yes Or No Would have sufficed :-)
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