Hello all,

I just got my broken coolant temp sender taped out of the block, and I was just wondering where everybody else's gauge sits. I bought this car from a friend and It was broken when he purchased it, the car is a stock 85 12a with the air pump removed and a duel alt. pulley. The needle sits right in the middle of the gauge with no fluctuation, and the car runs just as good as it did when my friend bought so i'm hopping this is normal.

Thanks,

RXJIM

 

Ahhhh, silence is golden. I guess I'll just keep shifting at 8k care free RPM's.


Thanks,
RXJIM

 

Usually 1/4 to 3/8 on the gauge. Usually don't see the 1/2 mark unless it's hot out and either going up a steep grade or in stop and go traffic. Do you know what degree T-stat is in it?

 

brand new OEM from mazda and a rad. cap, installed it with the sender . The fan clutch was replaced a few years back, but it spins a lot when you kill the engine is that normal? The car also has 203,XXX miles on her mabey I should get the rad. check out.

 

The way to check a fan clutch is to bring the engine up to operating temp, shut the motor off. Then spin the fan, if there is little or no resistance at that time then the fan clutch is not operating correctly.

Remember it is a thermostatic clutch that has a bi-metalic sensor on it to sense heat and only is supposed to start engaging at a specific temp.

 

I'll check it out in the morning.

Thanks, Doc.

 

Don't plan on keeping your high mileage engine for long with 8k shifts. If the gauge sits at the 1/2 mark most of the time, it may be time to go through the cooling system. Starting with a good flush to clean out the radiator, perhaps even a replacement.

 

I think he posted that to get a quicker response (about the 8k that is).

While your in there, check and replace the cooling hoses as needed.

When you get done with the servicing of the coolant system, add a bottle of redlines waterwetter.

 

Ah, the impatience of youth.

 

Just for the record, I don't do 8k every shift I do hit the buzzer from time to time like I'm sure most people here do. My friend drove the **** out this car for the four years he had it, with out the gauge. I would think the engine would have given up already, regardless I want to get the temps down.

So I tested the fan clutch as Doc stated it was "tight as a tiger", and the coolant hoses look good (no leaks). I guess the next step is to get the radiator rotted and flow tested, unless there is other suggestions.

Thanks
RXJIM

 

The stock fan clutch should easily spin a few revs when cold, then stiffen up when hot. Take the rad cap off and look for buildup in the cooling tubes. If it's minor, a good radiator flush product may clean it up, if it's badly corroded, rebuild or replace. The other item to look at is the water pump. Over time, the impeller fins actually wear away, reducing it's ability to supply enough flow.

There is also an aftermarket aluminum water pump made by GHB that some claim does not flow as much as the oem one. It has pressed steel impellers instead of the stock cast iron ones.

Don't take the impatience of youth personally, I have an odd sense of humor and poke fun often.

 

There was no offence taken, mabey a well placed smiley would have expressed that better.

I'll guess try the flush first we have a good BG flush kit at the VW dealer I work for, it cleans the coolant system when the oil cooler lets go.

Thanks for the tip. btw the link in your sig. is the best site on the web good find.

RXJIM

 

Make sure you remove the T-stat when you do the flush. Bg puts out excellent products. When I was a service manager we used their products. The 44k is the bomb for cleaning out fuel systems.

 

Will do

Thanks,
RXJIM