Coolant Leak btwn Motor and Tranns...
#1
Coolant Leak btwn Motor and Tranns...
Sometimes it slowly drips... sometimes nothing at all... the other night it leaked sooo bad while parked, it took almost 2 full 1 gallon antifreeze containers to fill her back up.
Now I have it jacked up looking for the leak and nothing again...
Once the header cools off I'm going to take the inspection plate off the trannsmission to look around... in the meantime I figured I'd see what ideas I could get here...
#2
Too old to act my age
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tulsa, Ok.
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Several possible causes. Freeze plug in the rear iron could be leaking, iron could be cracked, or the intake could be leaking, and just running off the rear of the intake.
If it were me, I'd bet on the last one. Especially if the intake hasn't been off the engine.
Could also be a leaking water hose, dripping onto the engine.
If it were me, I'd bet on the last one. Especially if the intake hasn't been off the engine.
Could also be a leaking water hose, dripping onto the engine.
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#12
Well... I went to the parts store and they don't stock new plugs... and they can't get them. So, I took a old 12A plate I been saving, picked the cleanest looking plug and gently fanaggel'd it out.
Under advice given to me by a friend of mine who's a real mechanic (unlike myself. Me = a backyard mechanic) I took a little dab of JB Weld and VERY lightly put a coat around the part that's going to sit in the plate and put her in...
Transmission, clutch, pp, etc... is all going in tonite...
Jeff... why would I need a back plate...? All else seemed well.
Under advice given to me by a friend of mine who's a real mechanic (unlike myself. Me = a backyard mechanic) I took a little dab of JB Weld and VERY lightly put a coat around the part that's going to sit in the plate and put her in...
Transmission, clutch, pp, etc... is all going in tonite...
Jeff... why would I need a back plate...? All else seemed well.
#16
Old Fart Young at Heart
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Be sure to check the rest of the plugs, seldom, is it just one plug that rusts/fails, unless that particular plug didn't have a proper rust preventitive/zinc/chrome coating. Clean/flush the cooling system after plug replacent. Plug failure is usually an indication of poor cooling system maintinance. Replacing the thermostat/waterpump and having the radiator boiled will help prevent future cooling system failures. Fun part is checking the front freeze plugs. That entails removing the fan, waterpump and front cover. Since you will have the tranny out, it'simpler to remove engine, to access the front freeze plugs. Carb, intake/efi and rat's nest can remain for this task.
I strongly recommend against changing the front freeze plugs with the engine in the car. Even experienced mechanics can bugger the torrington bbearings. All it take is a weak master, clutch or slave cylinder hose. If any of those fail, resuklts won't show until the car has been driven for a while, unless one checks e-shaft free play.
I strongly recommend against changing the front freeze plugs with the engine in the car. Even experienced mechanics can bugger the torrington bbearings. All it take is a weak master, clutch or slave cylinder hose. If any of those fail, resuklts won't show until the car has been driven for a while, unless one checks e-shaft free play.
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RPOdesign
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