gonzoguy

So at some point I am going to change out every bulb with its LED counterpart. I've already looked through the search and found some good advise, but also some specific information was missing that can help others. So I did the research, went through the entire parts fiche, and this is what I came up with (for an 84-85)

Dome light - 3175 x1
Map Light - 194 x1
Cigar lighter - BA9S x1
Behind vent select buttons - 194 x6
Inside logical control under caps on top left and right - 74 x2
Automatic gear indicator - 194 x1
Glove Box - 194 x1
Behind Gauges - 194 x5
Behind warning lights - 74 x12 (or as needed)
Center panel behind temp and fan speed ***** - 74 x2
Ash tray - 194 x1
Cargo lamp - 3022 x1 (same as 3175 above)
License plate - 89 x2
Front side markers - 194 x2 (amber)
Rear side markers - 194 x2 (red)
Front turn signals - 1157 x2 (amber)
Rear turn signals - 1157 x2 (amber)
Rear brake lights (next to turn signal) - 1156 x2 (red)
Rear running lights (between brake and reverse) - 1157 x2 (red)
Reverse light - 1156 x2 (white)

I could not find the driver door exterior key light or the ignition lock light.

You will need load resistors for the turn signals to keep them from flashing rapidly. And also its important you match the color bulb with the color of the lens to utilize the most of the led's potential.

On superbrightleds.com it would cost over 260 just for the exterior lights, gauge lights, dome, map, glove and cargo lights. The deal breakers being the 1157 and 1156 at 20 dollars a bulb (for the good ones) I'm sure you could cut that price to less than 100 on eBay.

Though this is a project for the future I wanted to go ahead and share what I found already. Hope this helps anyone who may be thinking about doing the same.

dougingraham

It depends on what your goal is on changing out the bulbs to LED's. The only ones that would make a difference as far as load on alternator goes are the front turn signals, the four brake lamps, side markers, and license plate bulbs. Oh, and the headlights. The rest are an insignificant load. If you are thinking for safety then change the rear brake lights and the backup lamps. Nobody misses the brighter brake lamps and since they turn on faster it is like giving the driver behind you a few extra feet of braking distance. You can see so much better with the backup lights this might actually be the one I would suggest you do first. The other reason you might switch to LED's is appearance. Although not my cup of tea the Euro style clear cover look appeals to some and the appropriate colored LED's work really well in the application.

The $19 canbus bulbs are brighter in the RX-7 fixtures than the $24 bulbs. I have the $24 bulbs in my EV-GSL and the $19 bulbs in the GSL-SE.

I have changed out the dome light for an LED and the 4 LED one that superbrightleds.com sells in that size is too bright (3022-CWHP4). I don't know what to recommend for that position yet. Going to try the next one down the brightness scale. I suppose I could put in some window tint film to dim it. No room inside the bulb housing to add an additional dropping resistor.

I want to do the instruments, they seem dim to me on the original bulbs so that is next.

If you think about the cost then you will never do it.

Best Wishes!

Doug

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Thats great info. I'm thinking about the swap and this is a good start. I'm sure for an SA it will
be slightly different but close. Thanks.

gonzoguy

@dougingraham

Its just for looks.

There's also two I forgot, in the engine bay by the coolant reservoir and I believe by the battery, I think they are both the 30mm fetsoon style (3175) which if you hadn't already put a light on your Hood changing these to led should benifit lighting the engine bay. Though I also read that led suffer shorter lifespans from high heat.

gonzoguy

If you get the parts fiche for your year just highlight everything that says bulb, it wont give the actual bulb number but the last 4 digits of the part number is usually the bulb number, for example 11-0074 is a 74 or 11-1157 is 1157.

I probably wont change the bulbs for the air control, since I don't have AC. If only I could change the color of the stereo lights to blue. And as for the idiot lights under the gauges, i probably wont change those either. The main reason I consider this is cause my gauges don't light up so I need to change the bulbs regardless. And there are some floor lights (look like turn signal housings from a different car) ghetto installed behind the center console that get real hot next to the carpet, with a led dome light I wouldn't need these lights and save a huge draw on the battery for when the car isn't running. Cause sometimes I just like to sit in her with the radio on.

gonzoguy

And back at Doug, I understand there was a reason for you to change to led, conserving electricity is important in an electric car. I just promissed Zoé that I would give her a nice Makeover and take real good care of her.

dougingraham

These must not be in the 85's.

LED's do suffer shorter lifespans from high heat but usually this heat is generated internally when they are operating. I dont think you will notice a shorter life from temps up to say the boiling point of water unless they are operating. Under the hood is probably not a big deal unless it is really close to the exhaust manifold.

gonzoguy

These lights might just be special to my car, as they are wired to a switch by the coils, which I know the previous owner added (its a pull switch installed at the right height so if the Hood is closed while theyre on it turns off the lights) but the light over the coolant reservoir mounted to the radiator bracket looks factory. PO might have added it as he added a couple other lights (the worst being a third brake light duct taped to the hatch, that's gone). PO was an old man who originally purchased the car, I picked it up from his neighbor after he passed on.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Theres no lights in the engine bay of an SA I know that for sure. Not sure on the
FBs.

dougingraham

The above are not correct for the 85 GSL or 85 GSL-SE.

The Rear turn signals are 1156 x2 (amber) They are just turn signals, not running lights.
There are four Rear brake lights/running lights and they are 1157 bulbs. (red)

I would expect that these are the same for all FB's but I dont know that for certain.

gonzoguy

Thats not what the parts fiche said, I was confused about it when I saw it and superbrightled said it was an 1156. I went by the parts fiche though.

demongo

iTrader: (2)

^^This. The difference between 1156 and 1157 is that the 1157 has two circuits in it, the second of which lights up when the brakes are depressed (so you see the lights brighten when you hit the brakes).

The taillight housings also have a backup light (1156) that's activated when in reverse.

gonzoguy

Okay gentleman don't need to start an argument, these pictures are from the parts fiche. It says that 51-150k is an 1157, and 51-150j is an 1156 and the order from turn signal to reverse light is k j k j

dougingraham

I see what happened. The fiche shows two 1156 and two 1157. They just are not in the correct positions. The 1156 is in the turn signal and backup positions. The 1157 bulbs are the center two and are brake/driving lights. On the 1156 bulbs there is one filament. It draws about 2 amps. On the 1157 bulb there are two filaments. The one used for brakes draws about 2 amps and the one used for the running lights draws about 1 amp.

gonzoguy

I know the difference. I believe you. I'm just going to pull the turn signal bulb and check myself.