After reading the last post about a member curious about a loud pop, it was mentioned that GSL-SEs are known to go beyong their wear point and then boom.

Seeing as how I own an SE, I'm a bit concerned since it is my daily driver. It is 2K shy of 200,000 miles. Occassionaly I'll take it to redline (to clean the carbon off) when my fuel tank is nearing the 1/4 mark and I need fuel. I also run Royal Purple motor oil in the thing, along with the entire tranny and diff. I'm not sure how the previous owner treated the motor (altho from looking at it, it's still going strong despite him more than likely not knowing anything about RX-7s).

So, now I'm concerned about blowing a rotor and then having my car down. And, as we all know, that just plain sucks. Since most of us are financially strapped.

 

I have an SE with 218,000. Smokes at startup after sitting a couple of days but runs great. Obviously I need to rebuild it.

My advice to you is to run a little 2 cycle oil in the gas. I use Amsoil but any quality ashless synthetic will do. Pettit (Protek)makes an oil designed for this. 4-6 oz per tank. Others use MMO.

 

Check out this video if you want to hear what a failing apex seal sounds like:


http://youtube.com/watch?v=jB-JDdINMzU

It almost sounds like a rod knock. I wouldn't be too concerned though, if you only heard a strange popping sound. Next time you get down to a 1/4 or 1/8 tank of gas, add a can of Seafoam and go for a hard drive. Keeping the carbon out of the apex seal recesses is the key to keeping your motor running long term...

 

Rebuild it as soon as you can. I don't want to have to say I told you so.

 

I'll rebuilt it as soon as I can come up with the money. And, time. And, another car to lump around it while I do that.

Dumb question: What DO I need to rebuild it? Just two new rotors and apex seals?

Kentetsu - I didn't hear anything that sounded like a rod knock. All I heard was the sound of the exhaust and the various noises you were making while shifting gears.

 

You should not need new rotors. Just apex seals, side seals, springs, and a soft seal set. One potential problem though, with that many miles the housings may be too worn to reuse. You might want to consider picking up a lower mileage junkyard motor and rebuilding that one. They can usually be had fairly cheap if you can convince the guy that the motor will have to be rebuilt before it can be used.

As far as the video, you have to listen pretty closely to hear it. I had soaked everything in Seafoam the night before, so she was behaving fairly well at the race with just a trace of blowby from that worn out or sticking apex seal.

 

One nice thing about high mileage GSL-SE engines is the apex slots tend to be in great shape if if the seals have worn down below spec. This is usually not so in 12As and 13Bs with a carb and OMP. I believe the reason for the good slot condition of GSL-SE engines is due to the direct oil injection in the rotor housings.

This is another reason to rebuild a GSL-SE engine before the apex seals break. Catch it in time, and you won't need new rotors and probably won't need new housings as the chrome survives far longer than 12As and carbed 13Bs.

 

I might go along the route of rebuilding a 13B. Obviously cheaper than buying a pre-built one? Unfortunately, I don't have the resources available to build an engine (engine hoist, stand, room).

 

Where in VA are you?

 

Northern. In the PWC area. I'd only give out my info through a PM.