zduford

all right so i have all of the above but my car still doesnt turn over. So what could the problem be.?? I know all the simple things like timing, and air fuel mix......

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

how strong is your battery?

Kentetsu

Does the motor not turn over, or does it turn over but not start? You also need to make sure that the spark is happening at the proper time...

zduford

yeah, i have checked the timing, as well as used a fresh batt...so im not to sure now...im fed up with it and just want it to run!

Kentetsu

Any chance that its flooded?

Rotor13B

Yeah, When in doubt just push start it. If that's not an option, a couple of cc's or more of oil down each side of the carb will get you going for sure.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

was it running before?

how are your cap and rotor?

zduford

well i just did the atf trick cause i thought that it was a stuck side seal ( i had flames comming outta the carb every once in a while) And so i unflooded, then put the oil down it. And still it wouldnt even sound like its firing. The cap and rotor are brand new, rebuilt carb.

could a pluged cat be the problem ?

Kentetsu

How did you verify that you have good spark?

zduford

I just pulled the spark plug out and sat it on the strut tower. Now i know that it isnt in the combustion temps and pressuers, but it did spark. And seeing if it sparked there, im assuming that if i were to use a spark tester it would spark as well.

The plugs im using have been attempted to cleaned several times, and have tried getting the engine to turn over. Im just too cheap to get new sparks.

capt murph

Have you tried starting fluid? It works for me.

zduford

no i havent tried that....guess ill try it soon.

Kentetsu

If it is flooded, then just dump a couple of ounces of ATF into the smaller barrels of the carb. Hold the pedal to the floor and crank it until it starts trying to catch. Then let off the gas and crank it until it starts up. This has worked for me on several occasions (mid winter startups after sitting for a few weeks). Afterwards, you will need to replace the plugs, or at least clean them up good.

Did you verify spark on the leading (lower) plugs? Those are the important ones...

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If you are backfiring through the carb, be very, very careful with starting fluid. I won't use it if that is happening. It's also an indication your timing may be off. Bead blast the plugs, spray with brake cleaner and blow dry with compressed air. No bead blaster, brake clean and air then. Pour capfull of motor oil down each barrel of the carb and turn the engine over at least 3 full turns by hand, reinstall plugs and try firing it up.

As a side note on starting fluid, years ago I was helping a friend start his Renault. Fuel injection, but had the same air filter and intake cover as our 12A's do. Lid was unlatched, but the hooks were still in the groove. Engine misfired back through the intake with the force of a shotgun blast. The lid bent, but the clips held it in place, otherwise I would have been peeling the lid off of my face. Been very careful with starting fluid ever since.

zduford

yeah i was wondering about that, as well as the starting fluid is a lot more violent explosion, i belive, so i would be worried about the apex seals.

rxtory

mine was having problems starting yesterday, it was turning over but now starting but, we knew it was gunna take some time cause i just got the carb rebuilt so, it took some tuning adn we got it to idle fine when the choke was out but when it goes in it dies, so the nexted sunny day ill be out there tuning it

capt murph

Good point trochoid. We easily forget the simple dangers.
Gasoline, batteries, working under a vehicle, dirt in the eyes, wrenches slipping... they all have hidden dangers. I know a fellow that was working on a fuel tank and something went awry, a fire ensued, and he was burnt on his upper body . He is recovering presently.

A fire extinguisher should be in all of our toolboxes.

SO, when using starting fluid, give it a shot, stand clear, and hit the ignition.

I am curious trochoid, when that rotary gave that hair raising backfire through the carb like that, what was the next event? Did it start or stop on that note?

Cheers.

Capt Murph

zduford

yeah i think thats the biggest problem for me as well. I just want to get a carb that was running fine, and stick it on and see if that will go then.

As for tunning the carb, i think its so far out. and plus i dont have a good battery charger, so after half hour of dicking around....i have a dead battery.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

It was a Renault, very strange little car that was imported in small numbers. Don't even remember what model it was, but it is the only one of them I have ever seen. Someone had sugared the fuel tank and he had constant problems with the injectors, which back then was something pretty new.

We did get it started, even though I couldn't hear very well for a while from my ears ringing.

Excessive amounts of starting fluid/ether can damage a piston engine, whether it would pop an apex seal, I don't know, but it is something to concider. Always use the least amount possible.

Dangers abound working around the shop/garage/driveway. I almost always have some sort of eye protection on and the hairs and wax in my ears are frequently rearranged by my ear plugs. A good set of mechanics gloves can prevent a myriad of injuries. I have a chemical extinguisher in the shop and carry one in the widebody.

Safety has always been priority with me. Some of the jobs I have worked had a fair amount of danger to them. 1 year 5 guys I knew or had worked with directly were killed on the job in 3 seperate incidents That tends to wake a person up and forces them to pay attention to what they are doing and how to work safer.

Arkiane

((Wrong account))

zduford

As for tuning the carb, what do you guys have yours set at? I know stock air fuel is like 3 turns out.

What are the other specs, i have had a look in the haynes. But couldnt find much of anything.

I also have a problem with the carb. I will turn the key one, and the bowls will fill and not flood. But i then turn the key off and the bowls just let loose and dump everything in to the carb, and floods it. I have heard there is a fuel return solinoid, or something along thouse lines. Any info would be great, or a cheap new carb. Thanks

Kentetsu

Fuel bowl vent solenoid? Single wire plugs into carb next to the alternator. If that's not plugged in, then that may be your issue.

As long as you have the idle mixture screw 3 turns out, you should be good. You will fine tune it once the engine is running.

Arkiane

ok. so if im three turns out and im not getting it started.. why is that?

zduford

ok. so if im three turns out and im not getting it started.. why is that?

(the account above is my friends and i didnt realize that he was logged in.)