compression dropping
FB+FC=F-ME
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 5
From: Rohnert Park CA
Ive used Seafoam in my old Ram D50 when it starts to ping and/or diesel.Works pretty damn good,you just have to follow the directions for direct injection into the engine for cases when you arent going to run it in the fuel.
Use a vacuum port that will feed to all the cylinder/chambers.
Let the engine draw the fluid in slowly,keeping the engine idled up during the application.
When possible,use the last bit of Seafoam to douse and stall the engine,then let it sit for a while and soak.Stalling the engine on the stuff ensures that its not all combusted and/or spat out the exhaust,rather it soaks everything in the working parts of the combustion chamber with the fluid and lets it soak in en'mass.
Jeff,I hear you about the ATF trick and its orgins.....where do you think I originally heard about it? I started out on the Mazspeed forum too,almost 10 years ago when I first started building up my car.That was back when it was just beige pages with entire posts laid out in pages,Mike and Bob ruled the forums back then.
Like I said,Ive no doubts that ATF has caused many seal issues to emerge,its aggessive stuff......its designed to be.Thats the only way it can keep all the tiny parts of an A/T clean and working.In my line of buisness,ATF is considered to be the ultimate hydraulic fluid for any machine,tractor or hydraulic system that requires a 5-10W hydraulic fluid.It has all the best additives and characteristics of any other hydraulic fluid,times 10.
Now,if someone were to take a new or even good condition used rotary oil seal,soak it in ATF,and show that it was destroyed directly by the ATF,Id be convinced.
Use a vacuum port that will feed to all the cylinder/chambers.
Let the engine draw the fluid in slowly,keeping the engine idled up during the application.
When possible,use the last bit of Seafoam to douse and stall the engine,then let it sit for a while and soak.Stalling the engine on the stuff ensures that its not all combusted and/or spat out the exhaust,rather it soaks everything in the working parts of the combustion chamber with the fluid and lets it soak in en'mass.
Jeff,I hear you about the ATF trick and its orgins.....where do you think I originally heard about it? I started out on the Mazspeed forum too,almost 10 years ago when I first started building up my car.That was back when it was just beige pages with entire posts laid out in pages,Mike and Bob ruled the forums back then.
Like I said,Ive no doubts that ATF has caused many seal issues to emerge,its aggessive stuff......its designed to be.Thats the only way it can keep all the tiny parts of an A/T clean and working.In my line of buisness,ATF is considered to be the ultimate hydraulic fluid for any machine,tractor or hydraulic system that requires a 5-10W hydraulic fluid.It has all the best additives and characteristics of any other hydraulic fluid,times 10.
Now,if someone were to take a new or even good condition used rotary oil seal,soak it in ATF,and show that it was destroyed directly by the ATF,Id be convinced.
well I had to bump start the car tonight, as it wouldn't start with the motor. I fumigated the neighborhood, and finally got the ATF smoke to clear. Then I noticed that my motor was not only burning oil, but leaking it profusely out of the filler vent. It did this when I first got it started after rebuilding my carb, before I did the de-carbonizing, got worse with the H2O/SeaFoam treatment, and didnt' get any worse with the ATF treatment. I checked the compression right after it died, and it was back up to 45/45/45 on both housings. The oil (mind you it has about 7 miles on it now), is black and murky. I'm admitting defeat and going to start sourcing a cherrypicker for a one day, marathon motor swap. If anyone wants to help that is in lower Michigan or is close to the Michigan border, PM me. I can provide beer and pizza.
EDIT: motor swap will be THIS WEEKEND!
EDIT: motor swap will be THIS WEEKEND!
