Crit

iTrader: (6)

I'm looking at doing an engine build at a weekend-long local meet, so I'm looking to build a complete list of everything needed. I've got 9 months or so to plan, and I'll have power available. Outside of that, I'll need to bring everything needed to finish the build and install.

The car is an 84 GSL-SE, and I have a good set of housings, rotors, etc. My initial idea is to work in two groups. One group might drop the engine and tranny, strip the engine to a short block and keep everything straight. The second group would take my spare irons, housings, rotors, e-shaft, hard seals, soft seals, and oil pump and build the new engine. The old engine will give up the front cover w/ OMP and oil pan. If we come up critically short of hardware or the engine doesn't run, we could still put the original engine back in the car. I don't have a spare front cover or oil pan, so they'll have to come from the tired engine.

I think it makes sense to split the list into categories. If you guys want to copy the text from here down into a new post and add to it, feel free. Otherwise I'll periodically try to comb through the list and update it. The idea is that we won't have to leave the build site 'fo nuthin - tools, supplies, or anything.

Supplies:
FSM
Beer
Sharpies
Masking Tape
Tarps / drop cloths to go under the GSL-SE
Clean workspace for the engine (trailer, tent, etc)
Rags
Paper Towels
Beer
Engine Hoist
Engine Stand w/ adapter
Ramps
Jackstands
Clutch alignment tool
New clutch (maybe)


Tools:
Air compressor
Air lines
Impact gun
Air ratchet
53mm socket
Complete socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.
Picks
Flashlights
Droplights
Extension cords
Torque wrenches (3/8 and 1/2)
Breaker bar
Dial calipers


Engine Parts:
Irons
Housings
Rotors
E-Shaft
Oil pump w/ chain, bolts, etc.
Pilot bearing
Throwout bearing
S2 or S3 distributor (so the timing doesn't get lost on the tired engine)
Coolant temp sensor
Oil pressure sensor
Modified aux-port sleeves (Pineapple inserts)


Hard Seals:
6 Apex seals
6 Apex corner pieces
6 Apex seal springs
12 Side seals
12 Side seal springs
12 Stock corner seals
12 FD corner seal springs (will they accept 3mm seals?)
Seal organizer case
4 Inner oil control rings
4 Outer oil control rings
4 Inner oil control ring springs
4 Outer oil control ring springs

Soft Seals:
4 Inner oil control o-rings
4 Outer oil control o-rings
Soft seal kit

Gaskets:
LIM gasket
UIM gasket
Plenum gasket
Exhaust mani gaket
Front Cover Gasket
Front main seal
Rear main seal
Oil pan gasket
Water pump gasket
OMP gasket

Yoohoo belt (3L220)
Dual-sheave pulley (been meaning to do that)

Consumables:
10 qts of oil (enough to fill both engines in case the original has to go back in)
Coolant
De-ionized water
Bearing grease
Crisco
Oil filter
Air tool oil
Tranny oil (it'll leak when the driveshaft comes out, right?)


That's what I've got off the top of my head. I'm interested particularly in helpful little tools and stuff that doesn't normally show up on the rebuild videos. Chad and Charles, if you're reading, you know what I'm up to and I'm curious what would be on your list if you were to do the same thing.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Hylomar
Degreaser/Carb cleaner, brushes and metal bucket for rotors
New injector clips, connectors and shrink tube
Laptop with rebuild DVD
3rd gen corner seal springs will work
Rubber bands to hold apex seals in place
Assembly lube, delete the Crisco for Vasoline Do Not use Vaseline on rubber O-rings, it will cause them to swell
Known good stationary gears and bearings
Old side seals to clean out side seal grooves
Fine metal file to fit new side seals or die grinder and stones, ( reusuing old side seals is rarely a problem, flip over if they show wear)
Feeler gauges to fit side seals
Super glue for for apex seals/triangles and sheet of glass to glue them together on, razor blade to trim off glue
Utility blades to scrape mating faces between housings/irons and oilpan/block
2-1/8" socket, not 53 mm
Dial gauge with magnetic base to set end play, along with an assortment of shims, may need new torrington bearings, (2)
Extra lug bolt to pull dowel pins
P B Blaster
Metric tap and die set to chase threads for cleaning
Red and Blue thread lock
Hand pump for tranny fluid, 2 qts.
Large, heavy crescent wrench for tranny drain plug
Sharpened, narrow flat screw driver to clean out coolant seal grooves
1" and 4" calipers for measuring, along with a straight edge and feeler gauges
Freshly turned flywheel for new clutch

I noticed you have beer listed twice.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

u can never have too much.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

that's what i used in my engine.

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Engine Stand w/ adapter -- If you cant get adapter dont worry we dont use one
Pineapple inserts - read up on these. Alot of people dont like them.

12 FD corner seal springs (will they accept 3mm seals?) Yes

Crisco - Why? You cooking chicken?

Tranny oil (it'll leak when the driveshaft comes out, right?) - get an onld input shaft off and old worn out drive shaft.

If Charles and I can plan this out and all parts are clean and ready for stacking we can have it done in 2-4 hours.

Chad

Crit

iTrader: (6)

I've got what I THINK are good rotors with good bearings. Stat gears, irons and housings are fine, as they came from the rusted core I got from Billy. I've got to decide if I want to port the irons, but I want to stick with what the GSL-SE can keep up with, flow-wise.

I've got the engine stand already, with adapter, and it's got an SE iron on it now for the sake of spinning around and making a conversation piece. It'd be great to actually put it to work. I also have all the oil pump hardware, tension rods, etc from the rusted motor, which gave up the housings, irons, and e-shaft, including the thrust bearings and any washers for endplay. Should I buy a couple extra washers? Is the endplay a function of housings and iron thicknesses (which wouldn't change) or are you trying to clamp the side seals by a certain amount, which would be reliant on the rotor lenghts?

Crisco is what Mazdatrix or RB uses to hold seals in place, and it sounded like a decent idea. I had forgotten about super glue and a small pane of glass, though.

I've already made up a pair of sleeves with Pineapple inserts, but it's easy enough to change down the road. I'd like to dyno the tired motor at some point, so maybe a morning and afternoon pull with both versions of sleeves will make for an informed decision there.

Would a REPU or RX-2 driveshaft seal the tranny okay, or have the splines changed?

I can plan things out and don't really intend to lean on you guys - just curious what I may have missed. I can just drive an orange alternate car in the PDX if the SE's still down.



Supplies:
FSM
Beer
Sharpies
Masking Tape
Hylomar
Degreaser/Carb cleaner, brushes and metal bucket for rotors
Laptop with rebuild DVD
Rubber bands
Assembly lube, or Crisco, or Vasoline (open for debate)
Fine metal file to fit new side seals or die grinder and stones
Feeler gauges to fit side seals
Super glue and small pane of glass
Razor blades
Utility blades
(Get donated) Dial gauge with magnetic base to set end play, along with an assortment of shims, may need new torrington bearings, (2)
Extra lug bolt to pull dowel pins (shouldn't be necessary as we're building a second engine, but maybe to fix a misake)
P B Blaster
(Get donated) Metric tap and die set to chase threads for cleaning
Loctite Red and Blue
Hand pump for tranny fluid, 2 qts.
Large, heavy crescent wrench for tranny drain plug
Sharpened, narrow flat screw driver to clean out coolant seal grooves
Tarps / drop cloths to go under the GSL-SE
Clean workspace for the engine (trailer, tent, etc)
Rags
Paper Towels
Beer
Engine Hoist
Engine Stand w/ adapter
Ramps
Jackstands
Clutch alignment tool
New clutch (maybe)


Tools:
Air compressor
Air lines
Impact gun
Air ratchet
54mm socket w/ adapter to 1/2"
Complete socket set, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.
Picks
Flashlights
Droplights
Extension cords
Torque wrenches (3/8 and 1/2)
Breaker bar
Dial calipers


Engine Parts:
Cleaned/Flowed injectors with new rubbers
Irons
Housings
Clean, inspected rotors w/ good bearings
Stationary gears w/ good bearings
E-Shaft w/ new pilot bearing
Oil pump w/ chain, bolts, etc.
Pilot bearing
Throwout bearing
GSL-SE distributor and front cover (I can borrow, just until the car starts, then return from the old engine. That way I don't lose timing on the known good motor)
Coolant temp sensor
Oil pressure sensor
Modified aux-port sleeves (Pineapple inserts)
Freshly turned flywheel for new clutch
New throwout bearing

Hard Seals:
6 Apex seals
6 Apex corner pieces
6 Apex seal springs
12 Side seals
12 Side seal springs
12 Stock corner seals
12 FD corner seal springs
Seal organizer case
4 Inner oil control rings
4 Outer oil control rings
4 Inner oil control ring springs
4 Outer oil control ring springs

Soft Seals:
4 Inner oil control o-rings
4 Outer oil control o-rings
Soft seal kit

Gaskets:
LIM gasket
UIM gasket
Plenum gasket
Exhaust mani gaket
Front Cover Gasket
Front main seal
Rear main seal
Oil pan gasket
Water pump gasket
OMP gasket

Yoohoo belt (3L220)
Dual-sheave pulley (Where's John, dammit?)

Consumables:
10 qts of oil (enough to fill both engines in case the original has to go back in)
Coolant
De-ionized water
Bearing grease
Crisco
Oil filter
Air tool oil
Tranny oil
Spare driveshaft to plug the old tranny

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You may need a BFH to break that flywheel loose.

And of course beer. If its 9 months away, maybe I can brew some up and join you for this little party.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Nah, I put the engine together a few months ago, and my new impact wrench is bigger than my old one. I'll make sure to have a sledge there anyway, as we'll have other uses for it.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Some kind of flat working surface; folding table, Workmate, sawhorses & old door... can't never have too much flat space for engine work.

KFC for crew.

More beer.

Camera to document event!

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Let me know if you need any help, I would love to come down there

Re-Speed.com

iTrader: (3)

No sunroof to pop open though

for the list:

Portable parts washer (i have one)



-billy

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

yes, and that is important with a helmet on!

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Wallace was giving me hell for being a part of the roll structure.

Zoom-Fest



Autocross

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Lol, that 2nd pic is a hoot. Friend of mine is tall too and had to pop up the sunroof on the track to fit with his helmet. You'll get better aero if you can leave the glass in.

Crisco or Vaseline is fine for holding the apex seals in place.

The cap off of some spray cans is the right size to slip over the end of the tranny and stop the fluid from leaking.

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Man I really like that color of FB. Need to paint my gsl-se that color.