Cold Start Procedure for 12A
#1
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Cold Start Procedure for 12A
I have a GSL with 113,000 miles and I'm wondering what the procedure is for other owners of 12A engines when they start their car.
Typically, I simply pull the choke, start the car, and it will immediately start. Then, I'll adjust the choke down to about 1500 rpm.
On colder mornings (say, 25 degrees or lower), I'll do the same, but I'll tap the accelerator just a bit. Then, I tend to crank about 5 rotations or so, then I turn to key off position.
I do this because I can tell the car isn't going to start. Usually, it will start on the 2nd or 3rd time, depending on how cold it is, or how long the car has been sitting.
Especially for you 12A people with older engines, what is your typical routine?
Oh, and not that this is related, but I use a few oz of MMO at each fill-up and I find this improves start-up.
Thanks,
Pat
85 GSL
93 VR Touring
Typically, I simply pull the choke, start the car, and it will immediately start. Then, I'll adjust the choke down to about 1500 rpm.
On colder mornings (say, 25 degrees or lower), I'll do the same, but I'll tap the accelerator just a bit. Then, I tend to crank about 5 rotations or so, then I turn to key off position.
I do this because I can tell the car isn't going to start. Usually, it will start on the 2nd or 3rd time, depending on how cold it is, or how long the car has been sitting.
Especially for you 12A people with older engines, what is your typical routine?
Oh, and not that this is related, but I use a few oz of MMO at each fill-up and I find this improves start-up.
Thanks,
Pat
85 GSL
93 VR Touring
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Geege (11-19-22)
#2
on cold morning, (below 45) i pump it 8 times with key on, pull out choke and hit starterthen lower rpms to 15k, in warmer weather, just pull the choke and it starts with no problems.........85GSL
#3
I usually pump the gas a couple times, throw the choke wide open and hit it. Sometimes keep my foot on the gas if it needs help but it seldom does.
Having the choke out is essentially the same as having you foot lightly on the gas.
I was a little worried about flooding at first (I hear a lot of people have trouble with it) so I was gentle on the gas during startup, but seeing as mine is apparently quite difficult to flood I now have no qualms hitting the gas hard at start.
Having the choke out is essentially the same as having you foot lightly on the gas.
I was a little worried about flooding at first (I hear a lot of people have trouble with it) so I was gentle on the gas during startup, but seeing as mine is apparently quite difficult to flood I now have no qualms hitting the gas hard at start.
#4
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Originally posted by DONNA
on cold morning, (below 45) i pump it 8 times with key on, pull out choke and hit starterthen lower rpms to 15k, in warmer weather, just pull the choke and it starts with no problems.........85GSL
on cold morning, (below 45) i pump it 8 times with key on, pull out choke and hit starterthen lower rpms to 15k, in warmer weather, just pull the choke and it starts with no problems.........85GSL
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OK, it appears the trick is to 'pre-pump' the pedal a few times along with pulling the choke.
I'll experiment with this in colder weather and see if it improves startup.
Thanks!
I'll experiment with this in colder weather and see if it improves startup.
Thanks!
#7
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Just consider yourself lucky. For me it usually involves pumping the gas a few times, having the choke out, turning it over and repeating 10 times, getting it to start, have it sputter and die, and then repeat until it finally remains running. I have yet to figure out why it's such a pain and as you can probably tell from my bitterness, it really annoys me
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#8
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'83 GSL 12a here and i have no problems starting the car. On cold mornings it starts right up and on hot days it starts right up. Of course it could to something with the hugh fricken battery i have. I swear my car is lower to the ground where the battery it.
#9
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Yes, one thing I have noticed is that these cars absolutely need a fresh battery. Cletus, it sounds like your engine may be getting a bit tired. Have you checked the compression lately? How many miles on your engine?
#10
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The trick to having your car start easily in the cold is to make sure your choke flap works properly. When the choke is pullled out all the way on a cold engine, the flap should COMPLETELY block off the primary barrels. When the priamries are blocked, the vaccum created by cranking the engine sucks LOTS of fuel out of the carb instead of air. This fuel is what will get your engine started. As soon as the engine has fired, a vacuum solanoid connected to the flap keeps it slightly open to prevent the engine from stalling from lack of air. When the engine starts warming up, the spring inside the choke heater slowly releases pressure on the flap and eventually when the engine is fully warmed up, the flap returns to the fully open position.
Many people overlook this little flap when their engine seems to run rough or stall as the engine is warming up. If the flap is not adjusted properly or the solenoid is dead, the flap will remain nearly or completely closed when the engine has started thereby choking out the engine and making it run way too rich. This leads to backfires, erratic high/low idle, flooding and stalling. Setting the flap so that it is always a little open when cranking over the car makes starting in cold weather very difficult... you'll need to "pump the gas" because the flap isnt doing it's job of sealing off air to the primary barrels. It has to be adjusted just right to work properly.
A 12A with a properly working choke should start right up w/no throttle (as long as the choke is all the way out) even after being parked for a couple days. After a few days though, even the flap wont be enough, and a couple jabs on the throttle will get her going.
Many people overlook this little flap when their engine seems to run rough or stall as the engine is warming up. If the flap is not adjusted properly or the solenoid is dead, the flap will remain nearly or completely closed when the engine has started thereby choking out the engine and making it run way too rich. This leads to backfires, erratic high/low idle, flooding and stalling. Setting the flap so that it is always a little open when cranking over the car makes starting in cold weather very difficult... you'll need to "pump the gas" because the flap isnt doing it's job of sealing off air to the primary barrels. It has to be adjusted just right to work properly.
A 12A with a properly working choke should start right up w/no throttle (as long as the choke is all the way out) even after being parked for a couple days. After a few days though, even the flap wont be enough, and a couple jabs on the throttle will get her going.
Last edited by RXcetera; 02-13-02 at 11:15 AM.
#11
Driven a turbo FB lately?
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I always went, in this order
Turn key on
Pump Pump gas 1/2 way twice
Pull choke
Start engine
Set choke to run at 2500-3000
After a while, Id push the choke in to around 1500-1700. My choke didnt retract 1/2 way like it was suppose to. Although it did pop all the way in on its own when the motr was at operating temp.
Turn key on
Pump Pump gas 1/2 way twice
Pull choke
Start engine
Set choke to run at 2500-3000
After a while, Id push the choke in to around 1500-1700. My choke didnt retract 1/2 way like it was suppose to. Although it did pop all the way in on its own when the motr was at operating temp.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Excellent information RXcetera. For safety's sake, I'll check the operation of the flap.
Bottom line though is I guess it isn't out of the ordinary to 'blip' the gas pedal for very cold starts. Then, letting the choke do all the work.
Just to clarify, I'm not pumping my pedal during startup, just a quick pump before, and only on very cold starts. For all other times, pulling the choke works fine.
Bottom line though is I guess it isn't out of the ordinary to 'blip' the gas pedal for very cold starts. Then, letting the choke do all the work.
Just to clarify, I'm not pumping my pedal during startup, just a quick pump before, and only on very cold starts. For all other times, pulling the choke works fine.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I've never had a choke pop in 1/2 way either.
After about 5-7 minutes it snaps all the way in.
Mike-P-28, do you really want to set the choke at 2500-3000 on a cold startup? I don't like my engine running that high when cold. I immediately adjust it to 1500 once it's started.
After about 5-7 minutes it snaps all the way in.
Mike-P-28, do you really want to set the choke at 2500-3000 on a cold startup? I don't like my engine running that high when cold. I immediately adjust it to 1500 once it's started.
#16
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I just put a new battery in the thing. The engine has about 103k on it. I haven't had the compression tested on it but I am planning on doing it soon. It really seems like it could be a fuel issue cause I'll get it started and it'll be running fine and die. My pump could be the problem. It's quite loud and really shouldn't be I'd think.
#17
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Originally posted by RXcetera
I've never seen a choke that retracts to 1/2 way...
I've never seen a choke that retracts to 1/2 way...
#18
Driven a turbo FB lately?
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I always let it run about 5 seconds up high like that then back to 1500-1700... Dunno was just a habbit.
My 80 Rx-7, used to pop 1/2 way on its own after a minute or so. My 85 never did, but I bought my 80 when it had 60k on it way back in 1985... So I think thats just something that breaks after a while on 12A's...
Also It really didnt matter what temp it was outside if the engine was cold Id have to choke it a little
By the way on my 88 vert when you start it when its cold out, it will run at 2500 and then after a few seconds it goes to 1500 and then slowly done to 750 when completely warm...
My 80 Rx-7, used to pop 1/2 way on its own after a minute or so. My 85 never did, but I bought my 80 when it had 60k on it way back in 1985... So I think thats just something that breaks after a while on 12A's...
Also It really didnt matter what temp it was outside if the engine was cold Id have to choke it a little
By the way on my 88 vert when you start it when its cold out, it will run at 2500 and then after a few seconds it goes to 1500 and then slowly done to 750 when completely warm...
Last edited by MIKE-P-28; 02-13-02 at 12:27 PM.
#19
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Letting it run at 3000+ for a few seconds is the right procedure... just make sure to back it off once the engine smooths out.
#20
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Originally posted by MIKE-P-28
By the way on my 88 vert when you start it when its cold out, it will run at 2500 and then after a few seconds it goes to 1500 and then slowly done to 750 when completely warm...
By the way on my 88 vert when you start it when its cold out, it will run at 2500 and then after a few seconds it goes to 1500 and then slowly done to 750 when completely warm...
#23
cletus my car is hard to start too. It will start fairly quickly but I have to feather the throttle for a few minutes or it dies. It acts like its running out of gas. I think its related to the accelerator pump?
#24
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I don't see how a 1stgen could do it automatically since the choke "hold" position is set in the car by a magnet that is "dumb." It's either holding the cable or not. Interesting...On my car, and I did this in the recent 18 degree weather here in Arlington, TX, I simply turned the key as I pumped the pedal and it started right up immediately every time. AFTER it had started, I would pull on the choke to establish my fast idle speed for the car to remain running, never before....interesting...
#25
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Pump gas once, hold pedal down half-way, hit start and it fires up straight away every time. I then pull the fast idle ****(no choke plate) out all the way till oil pressure is good then adjust it to about 1500rpm.
BTW, how long does everyone wait before they start driving?
BTW, how long does everyone wait before they start driving?