does anyone make a cold air intake type thingy.....i call them advanced air induction assembly......for a gsl-se or would it be cheaper to make one out of piping and hook up all the connections?

 

are you looking to run some sort of ducting system, or just run a big cone intake (that's what I'm doing)

I suppose I could build some sort of a box, but out hoods aren't really sealed well anway...

 

[IMG]A:\cold air sistem shot.jpg[/IMG]

this is was my old cold air sistem i had in my car and it worked great. i used a 3" 90degree rubber elbow, 3" cuplins and a 3" pvc pipe. and i have the filter in front of the engine. if it doesnt apears go to my website and youre see it. www.cardomian.com/id/eddierotary on the first page

 

ok.. your {IMG} didn't work and your website links me to amaturevideos.com......

 

bawahahahaha, oops. glad i didn't go after it.

 

I've been attempting to develop one but it's slow going

 

amateurs?????? are you serius? because i just click it and it apears my website in cardomian. try again http://www.cardomain.com/id/eddierotary if it doesnt work again in my sig hit "click here"

 

eddie, you typo'd first time out and spelled cardomian.com instead of domain. **** sites are notorious for snatching up common misspellings and having them redirect to **** if the original site has heavy traffic.

 

ohhh. sorry i hope i dont get kick out for this. sorry for my miss spelling

 

On my SE.. coming from up front I have an airduct routing air to the stock breather location..and since I have a few spare stock airboxes, I cut the opening on one of the covers..enlargening by over three times.. and repainted the cover. Not only does the stock airbox keep out hot air from the surrounding engine compantment.. the ram air effect and higher breathing ability sure helped out with throttle response and has a nice hum to it Now.. if this site would allow me to post pics...

 

What i did for a cold air intake on mine was take out the factory tubing that runs infront of the radiator put i think it was 2 1/2 pvc through the hole with a 3inch opening it was curved so i pointed it forward, stuck a cone filter on it, ran it back to my AFM and connected it with a 12 dollar adapter i found on ebay... i didn't really notice a difference on the ***-dyno, but i'm sure i gained a few horsepower.

 

Manntis, I believe you were going for something like this for the -SE, correct?



Thats a "cold air box" that you can get from Mariah for the second gens. Seems a little pricey for how litle you really get though . Oh well, keep up the work on yours man .

~T.J.

EDIT: Heres the link to the whole page about the thing:
http://www.mariahmotorsports.com/eng...iah_airbox.htm

 

thats pretty sweet man but i have a few more questions.....how do i get the plate at the mass air flow sensor to stay open or will it hurt it at all? do you guys know what im talking about the door just behind the air box thats spring loaded?? i noticed that yesterday and i figured air flow would be easier to obtain by leaving that door wide open...any suggestions or info? and another thing whats the "5 and 6 port sticking problem" iv never heard of that? how do i clean the intake manifold to do that?

 

The car won't run with that door left open, it's an air flow meter... the more air going through it the more the door opens, it's the mazda maf sensor in a way.

 

As described above, the Mass Airflow Sensor is the aluminum box underneath your SE air filter box assembly. This part determines the amount of air demanded by the engine based on the angle of the 'door' in the air stream. This information is fed to the fuel control CPU in front of the passenger footwell, and helps to calculate fuel flow and timing to the fuel injectors to get an accurate ratio of air/fuel mixture. Do not attempt to block this door, as the car will be running an overly rich mixture at all speeds, if it runs at all - likely it will not idle, as one of the Shop Manual quick checks for MAF is to push the door open and see if the idle falters.

As to the cold-air intake system, or ram-air induction, in my case; I ordered the Mariah 1st Gen headlight lid for the passenger headlight cover (they only make this side), and installed it on my 84SE. I then cut out part of the metal strip that holds the rubber gasket to the front edge of the hood in that area to clear the plastic 'snorkel' tube which previously resided in front of the radiator to route front intake air to the MAF. I cut this snorkel down to about 6" in length, just enough to go from the front of the stock air filter box to the front of the rubber seal for the hood. To mate this snorkel to the air filter box, I removed the rubber 90 degree bend, and re-installed it exactly 'upside-down' so that instead of pointing to the left to meet up with the original snorkel location in the radiator mounts, it now points out to the right side of the car.

Cut this rubber 90 degree bend down to allow you to squeeze the new, improved, cut-down snorkel into it's end, and then I secured the new short snorkel to the front edge of the engine bay with a single screw to hold it firmly in place. With this installed, the hood pushes down on the plastic snorkel and rubber inlet to the stock air filter box, and I've further installed a K&N high flow filter in it's place.

Looking into the NACA duct in the headlight lid (when retracted), you can see the air filter element in there, and it is getting direct 'ram-air' from the front of the car, at speed. During rain, or dusty conditions, I turn the headlights on, which lifts the retractor mechanism, thereby shutting off direct flow into the airbox, and causing the intake air to be drawn from behind the upright headlight lid, which is a low-pressure area at highway speeds. This has a negligible effect on power or economy, as it's basically working just like if you had not modified the stock system.

Overall, I'm happy with the result, and have a functional NACA duct for ram-air intake to the engine. I don't know how much extra power this would add, but I figure it gets cold air coming in the front instead of hot radiator air (at a standstill), and probably adds a few PSI of pressure where it counts when cruising on the freeway.

I'm careful not to spray any water up there during carwashes, and even in heavy rains, I've not noticed any tendency for the filter element to become saturated and stop flowing from water condensation or soaking.

 

I uploaded a pic ..still wont allow it to be posted