hello, i have been reading through the faq on the first gen rx7's, i have a 1979 limited edition rx-7 with a 12a rotory, i figured it would be a good time to replace the plugs s it was having troubles starting, after getting the front rotors pppugs oot and reaed i started on the back,and this is where i rn into my problem. the top onwas fine but when i took u the leading plug (on bottom) out and i had coolant draining out, it is only coolant an no oil mixed with it.

refering to a mazdatrix faq page,

and
i figure it is the water seals or a cracked wall allowing the seal to move. is there any other things i can do to check this or fix this... or is there somethnig i can do to pinpont this closer to the real problem?

i am gonig to be trying to get ahold of a optical scope to look through the spark plug hole to see if i can visualy inspect for a leak.

when the car was runing last week before i started to replace the distruibitor and wires, there was no water coming out of the exaust, and wonder if it could just be in the threads around the pulg. any help would be well apreciated by me. thank you in advance for any help.

 

Coolant coming out a spark plug hole is never a good sign. The usual suspects of this, coolant seals (rebuild time) bad housings, whether cracked or corroded from lack of cooling system servicing (rebuild time, with added cost to replace housings).
Some people have had luck using block sealers, but it only delays the inevitable rebuild.

 

DO NOT run the motor if you know there is a coolant problem. Two major things about a rotary is OIL and the entire COOLING system. The reason I stress this so much is simply because the more you drive it with that bad seal it will start heating that area of the rotor housing and cause even more damage. If you have the same mentality as some of these forum members in the since to drive it till it just doesnt crank anymore.... plan on buying a whole new engine. In the state that your in you might get away with a gasket kit and close her back up. If anything did happen to the housing you can easily find a 12a housing from someone on this forum, and only have to replace the housing verus the entire motor. When you open it and do see damage to the rotor housing be sure to check the iron plates for heat damage.

-When you have coolant coming out of the sparkplug hole that is a sign that the water seal went, or may have even cracked the hosing.....keep in mind that this is one of the hottest points on the rotor housing.....so this is not uncommon.

 

so in otherwords i should still open it up and pull the engine, and either re do seals or that housing, how much would that housing run me, or the seal kit?

does the coolant in the engine run though both alumium and iron ?

and in the future what can be done to prevent something like this?

about getting away with a seal kit, i would just have to inspect the housing and if their is no damage just do that? thank you very much again.

 

yes u must pull the motor and open it up to reseal everything

check the irons for warpage & wear with a straightedge and a feeler gauge.

yes coolant runs thru iron and aluminum like a jacket around the engine, youll see this when u pull it apart.

in the future NEVER OVERHEAT IT!!! thats what kills them and when u replace the coolant seals place the joint of the seal at or near the port area of the engine (coolest spot)

b4 u rebuld get a haynes manual or something and aquaint urself with the building and porting section at nopistons.com

 

ive got a manual already for the 1st gens, what would be the cost to get ahold of a seal / gasket kit for the engine so i can start this rebuild? anyone got one i can buy, perferably by use of paypal...

 

I just rebuilt my motor and reused alot of seals.. I did get new apex seals and springs. My rotor housings where shot so bought a set of good used. All in all i spent about $1000 on my rebuild that includes new clutch kit and other misc. parts i replaced just for peace of mind. Buy all you rebuild stuff from Atkins rotary there great and do have some used parts also if you wanna stay in a budget. good luck

 

If you just need the soft seals then you are looking at $150 or so.

Once you open the motor you will know if you need anything else.


Post up some pics of the car, the 79 Limited is an odd car and there are very few on here.

 

ill post some pics when i get home, ill grab a few body shots and any other pics that you want?

 

The one I would really like to see is the limited bades on the B piller.

 

Before pulling the engine and rebuilding you can try thr following:

1-do the temporary fix with colloidally suspended copper. Several of us have done this with pretty good results: the car stops leaking and runs good for a year or two. It only takes a day to do it, and costs about $30.

2-pull the intake manifold and replace the Oring seals, or block the water passages with freeze plugs.

 

Don't forget to get some pics of the car.

 

been kinda busy this week, i posted some pics to my site,

http://nuclear-summer.com/car

at this time their all really big images, when i get some more time to look into a few of the ideas or fixes i will resize those images...

thank you again everyone who posted, i will post again after i try to atleast figure out if that is the problem.

 

Nice, It is a limited but the wheels are missing, do you have them?

 

uhhh, i was given a spare with a different rim on it, im guessing you mean orignal rim/wheel or what?

 

yea the stock Wheels on a Limited look like this





What is on your car is Stock 81 - 85 FB wheels.

 

omg... my eyes!!! This is the ugliest FB i have ever seen

 

HEHE

I think the Noob is strong in this one.


First it is an SA.

Second if it is the ugliest you have ever seen then you have not been around long enough.

Check out this https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/what-worse-looking-fb-you-ever-brought-home-237523/

Third Before me it was a One owner Limited. meaning 1 of 3K built.


So I feel it is quite sexy.