i need your help to pic a good clutch. my car is an 85 GS with stock 12a. I want a good performance clutch, but i am new to the rotary and dont know where to get anything.

 

What is your intended use use for the car? That makes a difference on which clutch will provide you with the best service.

 

^+1. www.mazdatrix.com, www.racingbeat.com, www.blackdragonauto.com, and other have parts for our cars. Mazdatrix is favorite. All rotary. Check them out. God bless

 

I have the racing beat street/strip clutch in mine, works awesome and not too stiff. Drove a stock one recently and it seemed way too soft in comparison and slippery compared to the grab of the rb one.

 

I'm running the XTD stage 2 clutch off ebay for $130 for the whole kit, only have about 400 miles on it right now, grabs good, alot tighter than stock for grab/no grab. I can't say much else though without having put some serious milage on it. You'll definately here if it goes bad.

 

im mostly just going to use the car to drive to work and back (600ml trip), but I want the car to be competitive from light to light. so i guess im looking for a mild performance clutch. Also does any one have a good remedy for stripped out slave cylinder bolts

 

A good OEM quality clutch is all you need. If you want to free up some of that HP then I would spend the extra money on a lightened steel flywheel. As far as your stripped bolts, it's tap time.

 

Thanks Doc. Im thinking of ordering the one from RB, also i just had my mind blown. On the RB site with the steel Flywheel, they say not to exceed 10,500 RPM these motors are realy able to run that fast? How fast can i safely turn my stock 12a?

sorry for getting off topic.

 

For drag, I wont even use RB's strip/street clutch package. After a few hard runs, it will begin to slip. You need a heavier pressure plate.

 

With special mods yes they can turn that without coming apart but not stock. The safe limit on your 12a is redline which is 7k. And that does not mean leaving it at that RPM but an occasional shift at that point is ok but our power bands fall off around 6.5k.

Don't forget to get all the parts for the clutch job which includes the pilot bearing and seal also. You will either need to rent a puller for the pilot or buy one. Also will need to either purchase a 2 1/8" socket or a Rb flywheel nut wrench. You don't have to buy their tool to lock the flywheel in place. In the 1st gen archives I put a thread on using a bracket instead. Also there is tips on reinstalling the trans that I put in that site also.

Don't forget to service the trans at the same time. I recommend Synthetic gear oil. It shifts smoother in colder temps. And also consider a rear main engine seal since you will have access to it when you get the flywheel off. And inspect the front and rear trans seals and the trans mount which seems to break over a period of time.