I just changed out the clutch in the newly aquired car. The previous clutch disc had half of one side completely shredded. I don't know what happened there, but I installed a new clutch and pressure plate. I made sure the thrust bearing was good and the fork arm was also working well.

I installed the transmission, bled the slave, ensured that the slave pushes the arm when engaged. However, the clutch will not engage. I can start the car up, but the clutch isn't working. I can't change gears. I just realized there was a pin hole in the clutch line, which I now have to change, but that shouldn't be too big of a difference. I'll change that, but now I'm stumped. Any help would be appreciated. I really don't want to drop the tranny again, but I will if I have to. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

 

Try adjusting the clutch pedal's push-rod. yeah the rod between the pedal and clutch master.

 

I'll do that. I know the previous owner recently changed the master and slave cylinders and when that didn't work, I got the car. I hope that's the issue.

 

i just changed the master in my DD. i took out the push rod to do so. i got it all back together EXCEPT the push rod. now i cant get the thing back in! i cant get the threads to start. im going to try "fixing" the threads tomorrow and see what happens.

i bet that pin hole leak was shooting brake fluid everywhere! i hope you cleaned it all off. itll KILL paint.

 

Did you replace the pilot bearing?
IF not, there's a good chance that is the problem.

 

I didn't replace the pilot bearing with the clutch install. I checked it, and it seemed fine to me. How would it be the problem? Would it keep the input shaft for the tranny turning? Is that something I should have done?

 

I have a similar problem maybe you guys could check my thread?

 

Well if you checked it, you would think it would be ok. I know that when my pilot went, I could not shift the car in to gear. When I pulled the tranny/clutch and got to the pilot, all of the little needles fell out of the bearing.

 

Are you sure the throw out bearing is on the fork correctly? I did a clutch job on my 86 the other day, and really had to fight getting the tranny back on. At one point I almost had it on, and realized that the throw out bearing had slipped off the fork. I wouldn't have normally caught it. That would have been a bad deal with the tranny back in.

 

I disagree. I've done many clutch change out and most of the time, I have to adjust the pedal's push rod depending on the pressure plate. Otherwise, the clutch wont "dis-engage." If its dual friction, the pressure can vary from 2800lbs and up. For customer cars, I have been getting everything custom-made from a local shop, instead of buying it somewhere to eliminate the headache. In addition, who knows what prior mechanic did to it.

 

It's a bear to bleed clutch hydraulics. Sometimes I've had to do it 3 or 4 times. And even an invisible hole in the fluid line will cause problems: it must ALWAYS be replaced. Also, OEM clutch parts from mazdatrix.com have always worked best for me. I've had problems with aftermarket clutches even a month after installation. I've never found it necessary to adjust the pedal pushrod.

Did you Power Bleed the hydraulics?

 

I bled the clutch per the shop manual procedure. I know the slave is actuating, but I have to measure to make sure it's actuating the required length. I'll compare it to the track car which is the same year.

I checked the throwout bearing and know it was on right before the tranny install. I would think I would hear something if the car was one without the throwout bearing in place right. I can shift through the gears with the car on and up on stands. I have to match revs, but I can then shift. It was the same prior to the clutch change as well.

Will adjusting the push rod by the peddle change the actuation of the slave?

 

if your pressure plate is too stiff (dual friction), the slave cylinder's push rod is not long enough. I have the similar issues with my RX-3. Im was running 3300 lbs pressure plate. Had to extend the push rod by 1".

 

How do I extend the push rod?

 

youll need a 12mm and a 10mm open wrench.

squeeze yourself into your floor board so you can see your clutch pedal. yuo want to look up where you can see the studs for the master cylinder. there youll see a little rod that goes into it and is attached to the top of the clutch pedal. there is a 12mm nut that locks the rod in place. turn it to loosen it. after that you use the 10mm on the rod where you clearly see a place for it. now you can adjust it in and out as you please. i HIGHLY advise not adjusting it all the way out. i did, and it was a TOTAL biotch to get back in. with mine i could easily adjust it with my hand after loosening the 12mm nut, but that may not be your case.

hope this helps.