daddy08

I am very new to RX7s and am having a problem with my 84 FB.

Going to work the other day I pushed in the clutch, heard a small pop and the clutch went to the floor and stayed there. towed the car home replaced the slave cylinder, master cylinder and the flex line between the two. Bled the system and am able to build up some pressure but not enough to get the car in gear. I am going to drop the transmission on Thursday evening to see if i can see something wrong. My question is has anyone else had a similar situation? Is there something specific I should be looking for? I'm thinking maybe something with the shift fork? perhaps it broke (although this is not very likely)

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

poetheghost

Anyone have an info or did you get it fixed, what was it?

LongDuck

February, 2009, dude. I'm guessing he got it fixed.

Are you having a similar problem? (Aside from raising the dead?)

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

He may have had to replace the clutch master cylinder as well. The slave and the master should be replaced together as a pair.

poetheghost

Exactly the same, pop to new clutch slave, master is performing optimally but have a new one just in case, the wobble in the fork and lack of ability to return worries me though, lost clutches before and it never felt like this. Hoping if the dude had gotten it fixed he'd still be a member... ant good info?

LongDuck

The clutch hydraulics are known for being 'matched' in the sense that both Clutch Master and Slave cylinders tend to wear the rubber gaskets at the same rate, and so if one goes out - the other will follow shortly. Buying both and replacing both at the same time helps to keep them on the same 'schedule', because sometimes you'll get a little more life (months) out of one vs. the other.

The 'pop' and dead-pedal is classic failure of the Master or Slave cylinder (or both). I would NOT be pulling a transmission if I felt that pop, I'd be pulling the Slave (2x14mm bolts) and checking the boot for hydraulic fluid leakage, and if dry - then pull the Master cylinder which is 2x12mm nuts at the inside firewall and prone to leaking hydraulic fluid down the firewall behind the pedal when it fails. The Master is a lot harder to remove, just given the location of those 2 nuts and trying to get a wrench up in there, and then making 1/16 rotation turns until it's free.

In my experience, rebuild kits are hit or miss - and you're far better off just buying a new assembly which has been built properly and bench tested for reliability. It may cost a little more, but the Master isn't overly easy to replace, and not a job I want to re-do anytime soon.

Do those first and only then start looking at transmission stuff. The likelihood that the clutch fork broke is very remote (*I've never seen a broken or bent one), or that the ball pivot broke off (also never seen that), and even a Throw Out Bearing failure would be a loud, whirrring - but operable - clutch. Have a look at those and reply back with what you find,