Clutch is stuck...
Okay so I have started my restoration of my rx7 that has been sitting for 10 years. The clutch fluid was empty dry so i added some fluid and bled the system, but when I try to engage the clutch its wont budge...
I looked under the hood, and it seems as though where the hydraulic thing presses the clutch to engage it, the thing is rusted stuck.
I tried spraying the thing with some WD40, then tried hitting with a hammer to get it to budge but the thing wont move. I even ended up bending the damn clutch pedal. Maybe it is not rusted and im doing something wrong. Any advise???
I looked under the hood, and it seems as though where the hydraulic thing presses the clutch to engage it, the thing is rusted stuck.
I tried spraying the thing with some WD40, then tried hitting with a hammer to get it to budge but the thing wont move. I even ended up bending the damn clutch pedal. Maybe it is not rusted and im doing something wrong. Any advise???
I'd start by making sure it's not the release bearing sticking or something. Disconnect the slave from the transmission (2 nuts or 2 bolts) and have an assistant push the clutch pedal just *slightly* while you watch and see if the pin from the clutch slave moves.
If it does move, you might be looking at popping off the tranny.
If it doesn't move, then disconnect the clutch master & slave, take 'em apart, clean 'em up and put 'em back together. I wouldn't try to force them - if rust is causing something to stick it might mess up a seal if/when it eventually does give way. You could also opt for a rebuild kit at that point if they're not too pricey since you'll have them apart anyway.
If it does move, you might be looking at popping off the tranny.
If it doesn't move, then disconnect the clutch master & slave, take 'em apart, clean 'em up and put 'em back together. I wouldn't try to force them - if rust is causing something to stick it might mess up a seal if/when it eventually does give way. You could also opt for a rebuild kit at that point if they're not too pricey since you'll have them apart anyway.
Okay, ill try taking the slave off tomorrow and see what is the matter with it. Anyone know how much a new seal or rebuild kit for the slave would be to get it back into working condition?
I just bought new master and slave for 81 bucks at shucks. I didnt want to rebuild them, and the new parts have a lifetime warranty. you can find them cheaper at rockauto.com. but after shipping it may be the same.
Okay so I just took off the master slave which was rusted to ****, and the thing wont budge. When I set it on top the hood and try to engage the clutch, I can see the thing trying to push the piston thing out but it wont budge. I'm guessing this is a good thing because now i don't have to tear down the tranny?
So my question is should I start tearing down the clutch slave and cleaning it up to see if there is even a seal in there lol, after all the years of rust, and see if I can try to get the thing to move?
So my question is should I start tearing down the clutch slave and cleaning it up to see if there is even a seal in there lol, after all the years of rust, and see if I can try to get the thing to move?
It could be the master or the slave that's sticking, or possibly both.
I'd start pulling them apart though. Make sure you take note of the order everything comes out for when you reassemble it (I don't recall there being much, but be careful and deliberate). If there's rust inside, some fine sandpaper wrapped around your pinky and some light rubbing can be enough to scrub it free if it's not too far-gone. If the seals are gone, you'll need a rebuild kit. If the entire thing is in terrible shape and/or rusted badly though, you may want to skip the rebuild kit and just go for an entire rebuilt assembly.
Edit: Once the slave is off, you may want to try and push the end of the clutch fork by hand just to make sure the release bearing is free. It'll take a pile of muscle since you'll be fighting the pressure plate - I'd suggest the shaft end of a thick hammer to give you a better position/angle/grip to push from. Don't let it slip or you might bash your face into something. If you get it to move a good little ways, the stuff in the transmission end is probably fine.
I'd start pulling them apart though. Make sure you take note of the order everything comes out for when you reassemble it (I don't recall there being much, but be careful and deliberate). If there's rust inside, some fine sandpaper wrapped around your pinky and some light rubbing can be enough to scrub it free if it's not too far-gone. If the seals are gone, you'll need a rebuild kit. If the entire thing is in terrible shape and/or rusted badly though, you may want to skip the rebuild kit and just go for an entire rebuilt assembly.
Edit: Once the slave is off, you may want to try and push the end of the clutch fork by hand just to make sure the release bearing is free. It'll take a pile of muscle since you'll be fighting the pressure plate - I'd suggest the shaft end of a thick hammer to give you a better position/angle/grip to push from. Don't let it slip or you might bash your face into something. If you get it to move a good little ways, the stuff in the transmission end is probably fine.
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K so i got the slave off and starting cleaning it. When i took the boot off a pile of rust poured out. i have some pics i will post later. but my dilemma right now is that i can not get the plate that is inside the slave out. it is rusted in there pretty good, any tips on getting that little bugger out?
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
At this point I think it's just smarter and easier to replace both the master cylinder and slave. They are cheap enough and not worth the hassle if you have to pull it out again if it fails.
After a couple hours i finally got the piston out, wish i could say in one piece though. I ended up having to drill the piston out, and I will have to say that there was no way of getting that thing out without drilling it.
Now all i need is a rebuild kit to fix er up, but i noticed that if i were to just buy a new slave cylinder it would only be like 10 more bucks than the rebuild kit. Anyone know if the
Now all i need is a rebuild kit to fix er up, but i noticed that if i were to just buy a new slave cylinder it would only be like 10 more bucks than the rebuild kit. Anyone know if the
i would buy new parts. even rebuilt ones would work. i doubt you could get yours to work correctly, given how rusted it was. i would have bought them from the getgo, all the work you did now cost your time. is your time worth 10 dollars?
the rebuild kit for my brake master was 10 dollars less than new. i opted to get the new one.
the rebuild kit for my brake master was 10 dollars less than new. i opted to get the new one.
Really, get a new one. i just replaced mine, cost me 19 bucks I think, and took me 10 minutes to replace. Not worth rebuilding, especially if you had to drill something out.
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