thanks.....masters run whT $50 or so?????

 

there about 80$ from a mazda dealer and 45$ from mazdatrix.

 

ok.......I'm about to go outside and swap on the new slave and bleed the system....I'll let everbody know how it goes
Thanks for all the help

 

i don't think it's the slave,,,,but i hope you prove me wrong though

 

Oh crap...I just got home and out the new slave on...the old one's plunger tip was rusted ( ??? ) some, Itried to bleed it the best I could with my 13 yr old sister in law being the only person at home right now to help me the clutch still wan't engage properly; same symptoms...I can start it in neutral, can't go into a gear; it'll grind into reverse but then die as soon as it starts to roll; I can start it in gear, with foot on clutch and it'll learch forward then start running; did I not bleed it properly....is there another culprit.....again I look to you guys for help

 

REBUILD THE MASTER !!! and when your solo here's
how to bleed the system,,take a cup( any) a piece
of small hose about 3 feet long,the hose goes on the
bleeder at the slave,add fluid to the cup,about a 1/4
full.the other end of the hose goes in the cup,open the bleeder,make sure the master doesn't run dry of fluid.
and pump the clutch pedel,use clear hose if you can,,
from a fish tank is ok,,you can see the air pass through
it easier,when the bubbles are gone, tighten the bleeder

 

Dude, your pilot bearing has broken up which is putting your input shaft in a bind. You can try the hydraulics bit but before you spend any more money, drop the tranny. I had very similar symptoms and I could also start it in gear but quite often would bind up again.

 

ok...just go ahead and buy the whole clutch set then while I'm at it huh?? i think it's like $120-$140 @ Autozone

 

Autozone very, very very bad for clutches. Do yourself a favor and make sure you get an OEM, Borg warner (I think) at the very least. I think I have seen them go for 175-200 before. Even the Exedy clutches sold on ebay for 110 will be better than autozone ones.

 

What part does the pilot bearing bind @ the input shaft.
when the shaft is in,it's in,and all the shaft and bearing
do is spin,even if the bearing failed it doesn't stop the
movement of the clutch,,,to test,remove the 4 bolts
that hold the driveshaft to the rearend and turn the
driveshaft and see what happens,,PULL and TEST
the master when you get tiried of looking everywhere
else. the rebuild kit for the master is like $14.00 US
i'm done,,good luck and consider what i've said,,,mark

 

appreciate it...I'm def up for whatever saves the most $$$$$;
will cont to update as I go
~later

 

i would rebuild the hyrdaulics first, i have pretty much the same symptoms as you and i pulled out my t2 tranny which is alot heavier than a 12a to find out everything is fine. no broken pilot bearing, easy steps first

 

Err..OK. All I know is I have been stuck at a stop sign unable to engage any gear for 10 minutes. Had to turn the car off and start it again in first and had to repeat the steps several times to go home. Sounds awfully similar to this one.

 

I'm having similar problems to 87turbo2. I was driving my '85 base model a few days ago. I clutched to downshift, heard a "pop" and now it's impossible to get the car in gear while the engine is running. I assumed it was just a hydraulics problem, but after replacing the master and slave, as well as the hydraulic fluid, I'm still having the problem.

I noticed the slave is functioning and moving the clutch fork, There is also VERY little resistance in the clutch pedal.

Any thoughts?

 

wow,,thats a good one,,i know what you mean when
you say the pedal is easier to push,,have you adjusted
the rod on the pedal ?? it also sounds like when there's
air in the system too...i know the clutch fork is stamped
steel,,could that have been bent a bit some how ??
the hose can also flex,,expand more when they are old.
stainless steel hose is a good idea anyway,,for piece of
mind,,i can't think of anything else though,.well,,what
colour is the hydro. fluid ? light,,? dark ?? i don't think
the clutch failed ,, you know ? or any bearing .

 

I can personally testify that it is NOT the hydraulics.

I personally replaced both the master and slave, and the fluid.

I suppose it could be the fork itself. Otherwise it's gotta be somthing in the clutch itself, but I have no idea what.

I've never had a problem like this before.

 

smnc,
that's exactly what mine is doing......I've got the new slave on and I can see the little pison on it pushing away when the pedal is pressed. But yeah the pedal just doesn't seem to have the resistance it should.
I've bled the system properly......same result
the fork is what the slave pushes against right???
How in the hell do you break that?!?!?!

 

like i said,,that's a good one,,of all the moving parts
the list of what 'could' fail,,is small,,and i'm out of idea's
if i have something new,,i'll post,,,sorry

 

I'm gonna pull it off when I get home tonight....maybe the "piston/plunger" or whatever it is isn't set in that little dimple of the fork just right ????
Dunno just another shot in the dark maybe

 

sorry..puliing the slave cylinder off

 

doing some homework,,,there is a chance that the through-out bearing is hanging up on the in-put shaft.
and it's not making the complete travel, they are supost
to slide the shaft freely,,maybe a burr on the shaft, or
the bearing's center is out of round,,or maybe the
bearing is frozen at a certain point somehow.. to test,,
remove the slave,,and with your hand push the fork
back and forth and see what happens

 

new clutch set then ?!?!?!?!

 

maybe not,,need to find what,where the failure is first.
see how much travel the fork has

 

HOW??????

 

you unbolt the slave from the transmission., then move
the fork with your hand,,back and forth,,your testing to
see how much travel the fork has,,the only way without
pulling the whole transmission,,if the fork doesn't move
back and forth, then the throughout bearing is the culprit