Clutch Problem
07-16-11, 10:02 AM
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Clutch Problem
I have been having episodes with my clutch the past month. My problem is that, my clutch is really weak and I cannot put my car into gear. So I went ahead and replaced the clutch hose that are prone to going bad. I bleeded the entire clutch and it worked for about half hour( Its stiff about half way but not the entire clutch) I started up the car and was going to go out for a drive and the clutch was weak again. I went ahead and bled it again and there was a ton of air in it. So I started the car and drove it down the road and back and had no problems. Went to park it in the garage, and the clutch went weak again as soon as I parked it. This happened atleast a handful times and I just cannot figure it out. This thing has got me confused. Any suggestions?
07-16-11, 11:26 AM
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Jolly Green Giant
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Have you recently replaced the clutch master or slave? Here's a good checklist for inspecting and diagnosing Hydraulics failures:
If the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor then it's very very likely to be the hydraulics and as well will cause shifting problems particularly trying to shift into first or reverse from a dead stop.
1. Check your fluid level and condition
2. Look inside the footwell where the pedal pushrod goes into the back of the master cylinder and see if there is fluid leaking. [bad master cyl]
3. Look at the slave cylinder and pull the dust boot back and see if it is damp and if there is buildup and dampness around the slave itself [bad slave cyl]
4. Check the condition of the flex hose itself, the outer casing will likely be cracked but check for any tearing, dampness, leakage especially around the ends where it's bolted to the hardline or slave cyl.
5. If you can find someone to help you, open the hood, take the cap off the master cyl reservoir and have an assistant pump the clutch a few times then hold it down to the floor. Look carefully at the slave cylinder to see if it holds still in the extended position, if it begins to slowly return while the pedal is still depressed and there appears to be no leak at the slave cyl and the boot is dry and clean. Repeat the pedal pump and hold and this time look at the master cyl reservoir, watch the fluid level and see if while the pedal is held down to see if the fluid returns back on its own, if it does this is a sign of an internal leak in the master.
6. If no leaks or signs of failure are apparent, flush out the fluid and lines with new fluid and see if that helps.
As always it is the BEST practice to replace everything together so you do not fix one thing then have another fail a week or two later because usually when one fails, the other is bound to be on it's way.
RockAuto.com generally has the best prices available for all the parts you will need, try not to get the cheapest master as even though it will last you a long time, you still want a quality product.
When I did my hydraulics I went ahead and replaced both master and slave, and picked up a stainless braided clutch line from Mazdatrix for about $25-30 shipped and IMO well worth it.
1. Check your fluid level and condition
2. Look inside the footwell where the pedal pushrod goes into the back of the master cylinder and see if there is fluid leaking. [bad master cyl]
3. Look at the slave cylinder and pull the dust boot back and see if it is damp and if there is buildup and dampness around the slave itself [bad slave cyl]
4. Check the condition of the flex hose itself, the outer casing will likely be cracked but check for any tearing, dampness, leakage especially around the ends where it's bolted to the hardline or slave cyl.
5. If you can find someone to help you, open the hood, take the cap off the master cyl reservoir and have an assistant pump the clutch a few times then hold it down to the floor. Look carefully at the slave cylinder to see if it holds still in the extended position, if it begins to slowly return while the pedal is still depressed and there appears to be no leak at the slave cyl and the boot is dry and clean. Repeat the pedal pump and hold and this time look at the master cyl reservoir, watch the fluid level and see if while the pedal is held down to see if the fluid returns back on its own, if it does this is a sign of an internal leak in the master.
6. If no leaks or signs of failure are apparent, flush out the fluid and lines with new fluid and see if that helps.
As always it is the BEST practice to replace everything together so you do not fix one thing then have another fail a week or two later because usually when one fails, the other is bound to be on it's way.
RockAuto.com generally has the best prices available for all the parts you will need, try not to get the cheapest master as even though it will last you a long time, you still want a quality product.
When I did my hydraulics I went ahead and replaced both master and slave, and picked up a stainless braided clutch line from Mazdatrix for about $25-30 shipped and IMO well worth it.
07-16-11, 01:54 PM
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Jolly Green Giant
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But you say you're not getting full disengagement and your getting air in the lines? It still leads to hydraulic issues, but yea that's just an old post I quote when talking about hydraulic problems because the most common symptom is pedal to the floor.
But some more questions:
1. Have you ever replaced the master or slave?
2. Are you using a stock or uprated clutch?
3. What method did you use to bleed the clutch? 2 person, vacuum, gravity etc.
4. Are you having any type of fluid loss anywhere? clutch slave boot, inside footwell, around the lines etc.
5. Have you recently changed any part of the hydraulics BEFORE you started having this issue?
But some more questions:
1. Have you ever replaced the master or slave?
2. Are you using a stock or uprated clutch?
3. What method did you use to bleed the clutch? 2 person, vacuum, gravity etc.
4. Are you having any type of fluid loss anywhere? clutch slave boot, inside footwell, around the lines etc.
5. Have you recently changed any part of the hydraulics BEFORE you started having this issue?
07-16-11, 10:25 PM
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Does the clutch slave normally make a swishing sound when you pump the clutch up and down. I noticed that it was doing that and thought that was normal but wanted to double check with you guys.
I replaced the clutch line with the braided steel one and still had the same problem I did before.
I really don't think my master cylinder is the problem.
Everything is stock besides the new clutch line.
I bled the clutch with 2 people and it seemed the clutch got slightly stiffer(stiff enough to change gears.) After about 20 pumps, I could no longer change gears, the clutch was weak.
I replaced the clutch line with the braided steel one and still had the same problem I did before.
I really don't think my master cylinder is the problem.
Everything is stock besides the new clutch line.
I bled the clutch with 2 people and it seemed the clutch got slightly stiffer(stiff enough to change gears.) After about 20 pumps, I could no longer change gears, the clutch was weak.
Last edited by gaamke; 07-16-11 at 10:29 PM.
07-26-11, 06:56 PM
#7
I'm having the same problem and can't seem to figure it out. Last year my master started leaking, so I replaced both the master and slave. I bought the master from Mazda, and the slave from rockauto. It was fine until a week ago. I've bled the clutch prob 50 times, and I'm still getting air, not bubbles but almost like foam. The only thing I haven't changed is the rubber line. I'm not sure if I should try a new line, or replace the slave again. I'm also getting a squeak from the slave.
Another question, how far is the slave supposed to push the clutch fork? Because mine doesn't seem to move it very much.
Another question, how far is the slave supposed to push the clutch fork? Because mine doesn't seem to move it very much.
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07-26-11, 08:20 PM
#8
Well looks like I found the problem. DarrenTRS, I followed your directions and decided to unbolt the slave from the tranny so that I can remove the boot to see what was going on. The piston at the bottom of the slave was drenched in brake fluid. So I assume the slave that I bought last year is already shot. Teaches me from buying the cheapest part available from rockauto.
I also noticed that I seem to have black specks in my master cylinder. I'm wondering if it's coming from my original clutch line. Maybe it's deteriorating from the inside. I should probably replace that too while I'm at it.
I also noticed that I seem to have black specks in my master cylinder. I'm wondering if it's coming from my original clutch line. Maybe it's deteriorating from the inside. I should probably replace that too while I'm at it.
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